DouglasQuaid
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Posts posted by DouglasQuaid
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If I make the kgitsojc controllable via my iphone I'm never going to have to leave my couch again.
Excellent.
When the inevitable heart attack occurs, they're going to have to transport you and the couch your skin adheres itself to.
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I wouldn't be surprised if someone requests a position for a regulator to drop the 5v to 3.3v.
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Can we see an updated schematic Kevin? I'm missing something here. Is the IXYS part an alternate current source? I don't see the +500v for the source pin.
edit ... maybe I'm looking at the symbol upside down
nevermind, I see now that that whole part of my schematic is X'ed out with a highlighter. I couldn't see it.
edit #3: How can you make it any more easier to build than this?
The only way i can see to make it easier would be some ridiculous 900v servo to avoid needing the bias and offset pots, but that's asking for way too much.
If you want it easier to build, go with the boards with the individual stand-up heatsinks, and stick with the 1968.
As for the schematic, it appears the only changes since kgsshvproduction.pdf was posted are a few compensation capacitors.
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If a group buy happens, I'm in. I may be new, but I can get a few vouches.
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Get me some sabretooth tiger tusks. I would be more than happy to make
some stax jacks out of those.
After I made my post, I was searching online trying to find the dielectric constant of ivory just to see if a museum heist was even worthwhile.
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Should fit perfect in a single bellatone chassis.
Can't have a KG creation in a bellatone chassis without Stax jacks made from sabretooth tiger tusks.
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for those of you that want to do a 2 box thing with side heatsinks, i'm almost
done with the amp board for that. Very symetrical.
EDIT: Upon checking board img vs schematic, I retract my question.
I can only stare at this piece of crap budget monitor in the office for so long before nausea sets in, but haven't found any errors yet. I couldn't read input fet's markings, so I'm not sure there.
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No, Kevin was referring to the later sequel, Inspector Gidget!
Go Go Gidget Flying Hat!
Now I'm going to have that song stuck in my head for hours.
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Now I just need to find a 6800uf/450V cap just to be sure...
I assume that capacitor would be larger than Andre the Giant's fist.
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Spambot posting?
No self-respecting human would name himself/herself Celin Dion.
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blah blah blah
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[urlremoved] watch online movies[]
First post and already pimping your own website? Spammer no spammy.
That being said, my kgss psu is up and running. Added a zener across the fet, as KG mentioned, along with a few strategically placed resistors.
Amp board, not so lucky. One channel works beautifully, the other puts out nearly 200V DC upon startup and adjusting the bias pots does nothing useful. DC drops down to 0 over time, slowly tracks back into the negatives, but I haven't left it on long enough to stabilize long term as the third stage 2sc3675s get rather hot. All the LEDs light up, but the one near the -15V supply is definitely dimmer than the other two. No transistors fail the diode test and all resistances check out. Fun stuff.
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My KGSS doesn't play nice yet again. Bias voltage has dropped to 235V but the rail voltages all seem to be ok, What does it mean?
It means you touch yourself at night.
A. Is that the highest voltage you can get while adjusting the potentiometer?
B. Are you sure you're taking the reading before the resistor and not afterwards (still won't make your bias reading go from 235 to 580 though)?
C. If you didn't understand either of these questions, stop what you're doing and pay someone else to fix it before you hurt yourself.
As a side to my previous question about cooldown time on the KGBH supply, it took just over five minutes for my supply to get from ~350V to under 1V with a DMM acting as a bleeder and the IEC ground still connected.
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scorpions and superglue aren't that expensive. hell, in some parts of the country you can pick the scorpions up off the ground. i say we go with Dusty's plan.
Not too many scorpions around these parts, just rattlesnakes. I think I'm gonna need more glue.
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I was definitely going to check with a dmm before handling, but I didn't want to set up the psu here at the lab and have to stick around for an hour before things were safe to handle.
400V is the most I've worked with here at the lab so far, and it was more than enough to kill me at the currents I was working at. I'll definitely be keeping track of anything I touch. My plan is to use two DMMs, one on the positive rail and one on the negative rail, and attach probes before turning the psu on so I don't have to worry about exposing myself to the HV supplies.
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Speaking of the KGSS/KGBH supply boards, how long do they need to sit after testing before they are safe to handle, assuming they are sitting with the outputs entirely unloaded.
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Are my eyes deceiving me or are those actually black solder pads?
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You mean to tell us that autorouter isn't infallible? BLASPHEMY!
Happy to hear you solved your ripple problems. I like this little lesson. It reminds me of people who think ground is ground, until they finally deal with some nasty mixed-signal devices really sensitive to noise and offsets.
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Because if so, I want pitchers.
Screw pictures, I want videos of people breaking into Tyll's house.
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Snap-crackle-pop, I zotched em bad.
At least you got a good show out of it. I'll have to second the recommendation to buy ez-clip probes. I hope your luck gets a bit better soon.
I was mid-kgss build when coming across this thread. It's too late to order a larger power transformer and run with the higher voltage transistors at ~400V with the BH supply. Although I can probably still replace the one resistor per channel with the 2sa1968 current source once everything is up and running.
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Stopped by my friend's house today to pick up the PCBs and transformer built by him. Looked great so far, despite the messed-up PCB's color. I'll try to populate the resistors tomorrow, when my gf is busy at the mall.
Blue boards add an extra bit of class. If anyone at a meet asks, you could always tell them your boards were coated with a special Gilmore-approved blue dielectric that reduces ultraviolet reflections that might leak through the enclosure and abnormally bias the output transistors.
digital attenuator
in Do It Yourself
Posted
I don't know about the resistors, but I've hand-wired G6k-2F relays before. They're the same distance between pins as the G6SK, and the same thickness of the leads, just two less pins.
Soldering them to a pcb isn't really that bad. So bare boards are perfectly fine with me.