spritzer
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Posts posted by spritzer
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I would definitely swap out the rectifiers, they are really a wear item on anything this old.
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Voltage divider off the B+ works just fine and hum can be pretty much anything so impossible to tell.
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Indeed, that's and excellent way to fix it. If the elastic has stretched too much the same can be done by opening up one side and shortening the elastic.
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This is very much the return of Singlehour, same utter incompetence and utter disregard for safety and the customer
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I'm not sure what those things are but they are sure as shit not Megatron's. Looks more like a SRX with some version of the Megatron output stage... This is why Kevin and I try to expose these fuckers as they are literally running away with peoples money.
On a similar note, I have another amp from JR Audio here now and well... stay put for another horror story. That thing lasted for a few days before the PSU blew up... a sloppy clone of one of my old PSU's BTW.
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Stax just tripled the price of the 507 pads and the only other Lambda pads are the 207 pads so slim pickings out there. I've never tried the Vesper units but their other pads have been great.
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That is quite normal for these old sets and there can be a number of failure points, bad cable, corrosion inside the driver or the resistive coating on the diaphragm has started to break down.
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Normal 51K resistors would work just fine but I'd shoot for a non inductive unit such as the Vishay units Stax use now. They are 7W but that's even better
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Thanks for the update Todd!
I've received dozens and dozens of emails from some very worried people so I'm glad it is back.
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I would place that as top tier stupidity
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No, not at all. The 500t is more similar to the 600ltd amp with presumably a bit lower rail voltages but still the same circuit as the T1.
I have a 700t here and it is terrible in stock form, just awful. Utterly lifeless but adding a CCS really transforms the thing into something decent.
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No, not at all but they are very sensitive to static which is the most likely culprit
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I've fixed at least five of these over the years, all with bad mosfets so they just fail. Once swapped out the amps spring to life.
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The T1S and T1W are pretty much identical in every way, there is just a connection off the volume pot to create a passive preamp.
There is also no benefit to the variable bias as it doesn't go above 580V.
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The rest of the driver will also probably fall apart as the glue is so fragile and you will end up with dead drivers.
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There are nude photos?
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There is a good point of view to have in life, never buy anything from Hifiman!
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They are single ended planars, is anybody expecting a sane amount of distortion?
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The RK50 is only available in 10K as a stereo unit, the quad's are always 50K AFAIK.
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NB just gives you lower potential, so a weaker electrostatic field, hence less control over all. The top end is the hardest to reproduce with electrostatics so it will have a large impact.
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3 hours ago, Tachikoma said:
Just buy this instead, much safer than working with mains.
Use a regulated 5V supply, and take the voltage between VCC (or GND, but VCC works better for me) and 200V as the bias (credit to Sajeev Ranasinghe (Nectar)).
Those things are terrible, do not use them for a bias supply. They are noisy beyond belief.
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I would be very skeptical of any FR graphs for the 007's, they are next to impossible to measure correctly. Ohh and that conclusion is completely false...
I did order up a new 007A which should be here soon. Let's see if Stax changed anything.
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You would have to make a bias supply from scratch as there is nothing you can simply tap into here.
I've received dozens and dozens of emails from some very worried people so I'm glad it is back. 
Audeze CRBN
in Headphones
Posted
I should be getting one of these to try out soon and can't wait. It wasn't fun sitting out the press embargo... 😉 I would take those measurements with bags of salt given the amps used and the people doing the testing.