cspirou
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Posts posted by cspirou
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When installing the heatsinks for the onboard regulators do you need any insulation? I just applied thermal paste to the heatsinks and then just placed them directly on the PCB. The thermal pad is tied to ground and the heatsinks are anodized so I wasn't worried about heatsinks having any sort of voltage potential. But if it's better to have a mica insulator then I can add one in.
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I'm using the stock 255 ohm resistors for bias. Although they are Panasonic instead of Vishay since they were in stock. I believe John said his reached 75C without heatsinks and that's matched what I measured after leaving it on for 2-3 hours. Its also winter time and the house is cold so I don't know how much of a factor that is.
However I did find that the that340 chip now measures 70C as Astro mentioned. I don't think that the heat is transferring efficiently to the heatsink and the gap between the transistors has made a sort of heat tunnel for the hot air to escape. The that340 chip is in between and is getting a blast of hot air from both sides.
I should redraw the vents for the GB enclosure
Also Im measuring with an IR gun and it varies a lot around the heatsink fins. It would be more accurate if I attached a thermocouple to the heatsink.
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So the dip-28 heatsinks are the perfect length but a bit too wide. One is wide enough to cover the row of pzta06/pzta56 thats in the middle.
Instead I'm using the heatsinks @mypasswordis mentioned from eBay. The heatsinks are quite light and the double sided thermal tape I'm using is pretty sticky so I'm not worried about anything falling off. I just hope dust doesn't accumulate in the gaps.
temp before was 75C and right now the heatsinks are 48C after an hour. Cool enough to touch for a short time
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4 minutes ago, purk said:
Very nice and thanks. The old Dynalo was released back in 2003 or something if I'm not mistaken.
I originally had "Dynalo SuSy" but I changed it for aesthetic reasons. I could put 'supersymmetry' like John did for his case
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7 minutes ago, purk said:
Should the label be "Dynalo MKII"? This isn't the same as the old 2000 circa Dynalo design right?
Like this?
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John's design was 5.25" wide and mine has already been expanded to 5.5". The PCB is 4.8" wide which leaves 0.21" of space on each side. I'll keep it at 5.5" for now because it makes a few of the hole cutouts easier to define and I think you would benefit more from increasing the number of holes on the bottom plate. Ideally I would have wanted the sides to get drilled but that's not the case with this kind of enclosure.
I'll see if they have some sort of stock perforated metal. It might bring down the machining cost as well.
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I heard back from them. They said the case is threaded and uses standard screws, which come with the case.
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Drawings updated to reflect the black anodized surface with laser etched text. Text layout is much closer to John McLean's FPE files. Also needed to adjust the vents on the top because there was some overlap with the side panels
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26 minutes ago, sbelyo said:
I was reading through all that and was about to ask you... I'll use what you had before. What's the difference between the 2500 and 2511?
2511 seems have more range. 315 vs 300 degrees for the 2500
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Note that TKD offers variable potentiometers and variable attenuators and they are not the same thing. For the group buy I did I had variable attenuators. They will both work fine with the Dynalo Mini.
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9 minutes ago, GrindingThud said:
The name column is locked for me...but I was able to add numbers in row 24
My fault, I forgot to include the first column for editing. It should work now. I added your name too.
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Ah. Don't know but I know it comes with all the hardware needed to attach the panels. I can also add rubber screw-on feet, which I think will be necessary for ventilation. I'll let you know what I find out.
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Updated the spreadsheet to reflect the prices I was quoted and added columns for Neutrik screws. I don't assume everyone used the metal XLR jacks so just go with whatever was used in your build. Each Dynalo Mini needs 6 screws.
Take note that the quote was for the exact numbers I asked for so it could actually be better. If we end up with 15 total enclosures the price will be somewhere between the quote for 10 and the quote for 25.
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Neutriks use self tapping screws. I know because i bought standard M3 screws thinking they would be fine and it didn't work. If you bought the plastic A-type XLR jacks you'll need Plastite screws.
http://www.neutrik.com/en/xlr/xlr-chassis-connectors-accessories/a-screw-1-8
If using the metal B-type XLR jacks as in Kerry's BOM you'll need the Taptite screws
http://www.neutrik.com/en/xlr/xlr-chassis-connectors-accessories/b-screw-1-8
Both are available at Mouser. The IEC uses standard M3. Not sure what the RCA jacks use so I'd appreciate it if someone can figure that out for me.
I like the screwed lid too because I can swap with clear acrylic to showcase the inside. It wouldn't be too hard to make myself since I just need to drill holes. With FPE I would need to mill the edge.
I asked and they indicated that as long as the total reaches that number then I would get the price. The only difference between the two is G and H so it's the same work really. So 25 TKD and zero Alpha would be the same as 14 TKD and 11 Alpha.
Anyone know what the best way is to ground the chassis? Do I need to add another hole for the rear panel just for grounding?
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16 hours ago, Pars said:
Could be interested. Would the anodizing be done after machining?
Anodizing is after machining
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Recieved a quote and the prices look really good
Cutouts with no anodizing and no text
(1) $158.65
(10) $50.39/ea
(25) $45.84/ea
(50) $43.82/ea
Black Anodized & laser etch
(1) $298.65
(10) $67.39/ea
(25) $59.51/ea
(50) $57.49/ea
I will go ahead a make them all black anodized with laser etch. If we get a lot I can start requesting other colors. Spreadsheet will be updated later.
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1 hour ago, mypasswordis said:
Anyone know if either the TKD or Alpha/Song Huei pots come in motorized versions?
I've seen a motorized 2500 TKD. Don't think the smaller 600 is motorized.
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I updated the drawings of the front and rear to include the enclosure mounting screws. I haven't heard back on my quote yet. However the 175DT is also identical to one offered by Context Engineering. It wouldn't hurt to get a quote from them too and I wouldn't need to change my drawings at all.
6 hours ago, MASantos said:I have interest, what are the currently available volume pots? I don't know if I should choose the tdk or alpha version.
I would say that anodising after machining provides the best look.
Both the TKD and Alpha potentiometer are hard to get. The TKD is a bit better though and could be ordered in small quantities. Its much more expensive too.
The Alpha cases in this group buy are really only for people that managed to get pots from me for the first group buy. I could check with Alpha again to see if another small order is possible.
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Don't know, i can ask. I can probably also get it unanodized and you can find a place to do it for you.
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I wanted to let everyone know im doing a group buy for Dynalo mini enclosures
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Yes, reduce the copper to 2oz on the dynalo mini boards.
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15 minutes ago, gepardcv said:
Aesthetic preferences: delete "SuSy" and move the "Dynalo" label to the upper left of the front panel.
I also wanted to mention that I'm not married to the text layout or font. If someone wants to get super fancy with it I'll update my PDFs accordingly. They also provide silk-screening as well so I could do that instead of laser etching.
I did place "Dynalo SuSy" in proportion to the golden ratio, i don't think anyone noticed.
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Edit: I've started collecting payments. Information is here
Enough people have expressed interests where I am organizing a group buy. Here is the link to the spreadsheet to register interest and what you would like. I can also include mounting hardware for the XLR jacks and other parts.
I plan on going through enclosuresandcasesinc.com and using their 175DT desktop case. I priced a custom length 6.8" case without any cutouts or finish and it was around $30 each if I bought at least 10. Currently getting a quote for machining and anodizing but it doesn't seem so bad if I get enough people. Here is what I've drawn up. Let me know if there's any egregious errors
The red text just indicates what I'd like laser etched, it doesn't mean it will actually be red.I'm in for 3 cases. If i get at least ten then ill edit this post and start a spreadsheet.Latest revision, 1.5
dynalo_top+bottom_plate_15.pdf
PDFs with vectorized fonts
dynalo_front_TKD_15_vector.pdf
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What Are You Building Today
in Do It Yourself
Posted
Those DIYA switchers look like they use TSP7A regulators, just like the Dynalo Mini