Jump to content

gepardcv

Returning Member
  • Posts

    574
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

gepardcv's Achievements

Limited Edition Bronze Participant

Limited Edition Bronze Participant (4/6)

169

Reputation

  1. I personally love the KGST. I haven't checked parts availability lately, though it used to be a reasonably affordable build. You can sometimes get a good deal on a 007 (I paid nowhere near list price for mine), though it definitely does not err towards brightness. Great headphone, though.
  2. I would appreciate a bit of advice with regard to mounting non-isolated active devices on heatsinks. While trying to get my feet wet with speaker amps, I bought a Gainclone kit (LM3886-based chipamp). The active devices included all require heatsink mounting, and all are non-isolated (LM3886T in particular instead of the isolated 3886TF). The kit does not include isolation pads, PEEK screws, shoulder washers, or any of the things we use here to attach high-voltage devices. I asked the vendor about this, and he said that I shouldn’t worry about it — he said that the tabs are grounded, and therefore do not need to be isolated from the chassis. I don’t understand this statement, and asked if “grounded” in this case means “the case is connected to safety earth on the inlet”, and if that implies that the amp cannot ever be connected to an outlet without a safety earth line (which I normally think of as necessary to protect against accidental shorts, but not as a hard requirement to prevent electrocution in everyday operation). He replied: “The power supply uses a UL Listed transformer, power entrance, fuse block, and power switch.” This does not sit well with me, but before I push back on the vendor, I thought I’d ask here if I’m just ignorant. Is there something about UL Listed hardware that prevents a high-voltage device which is electrically common with the amplifier case from shocking the user? Is there a grounding scheme that negates this danger?
  3. Exciting! And that amp looks gorgeous. Please post some photos of the interior (if not sensitive, of course).
  4. @Pars: I used an M6, countersunk, to mount an AS-0518 on a Modushop Galaxy 388 base panel, which I believe is thinner than 3mm (supposedly 2mm). Also used FPE and FrontDesign. It turned out fine and looks plenty sturdy to me. I don't think the trafo will fall out.
  5. Right. So with a GRLV destined to output 20V, what’s the right secondary size? 12/12 gives 24V, which I’m wondering if it’s too much. I’m sure 18/18 is too much. I used 22VCT before, which was perfect and ran cool.
  6. I thought that tying two secondary windings together to make a center tap effectively creates a series AC circuit, which adds together the voltages of the windings. So two 12V secondary windings make a 24V center-tapped winding. And 18+18 would turn into 36-0-36, which definitely seems too high for a 20V DC output. Is that wrong?
  7. Question about transformers. I have a GRLV I want to repurpose, and it’s been used with a 22VCT transformer (single bridge rectifier) which for various reasons can’t be reused. I want to use the GRLV now with an Antek dual secondary transformer. I don’t want to change the bridges on the GRLV because it’s one of the earlier PCB versions that has incorrectly sized holes on the rectifier pads and it’s annoying and messy to (un)solder all that. 1. Can I tie the secondaries together and achieve a center-tapped equivalent? This suggests that I can: https://electronics.stackexchange.com/a/571731/59134 2. There is no 11V dual secondary Antek product, but there’s a 12V (https://www.antekinc.com/as-0512-50va-12v-transformer/). This means it’ll be equivalent to 24VCT (if I understand things correctly). Is that okay for a 20V output GRLV, or too high? I guess I could spring for a custom 22VCT transformer, but Anteks are so much cheaper and more convenient to buy.
  8. Is this the same character who took a bunch of people's money here on HC for a T2 group buy back in the early 2010s and vanished?
  9. Well, two years later, I'm thinking about finally finishing up a Mini Dynalo build. Last time I was working on it, I stuffed the boards but failed to solder the on-board regulators (even though I used a stencil with solder paste, I still suck at such fine hot air work). I picked up the AMB sigma78 and sigma79s, and noticed they mismatch the U5 and U7 areas on the PCB. U5 and U7 have holes for 5 pins, but the regulators have 3. It looks from photos others have posted that the outside pins are ignored. What's up with the extra holes on the board?
  10. You need to look at the software you use (DJing sounds like you need some pro audio support) and make sure it works natively on Apple’s new CPUs, or at least through Rosetta2 binary translation. If it is not supported for any reason, buy a MBP now while you can still get one with an Intel CPU. If you’re good with Apple Silicon, then definitely hold off on buying a MBP. If rumors are to be believed, a refresh will come soon (this fall, so within a few months) and will bring a new form factor. Supposedly, it’ll get rid of the idiotic Touch Bar on the keyboards, bring back MagSafe power connectors, and bring back extra ports. As far as typing comfort goes, just buy a nice external keyboard. I rather like Keychron keyboards, for example. Battery life and power management sucks compared to Apple external keyboards, but the typing feel is massively better.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.