aerius
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Posts posted by aerius
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I do have to question the Ety ER4 recommendations, it's very different from the Shure sound and I'm not convinced it's the right way to go. To me at least, Shures have a decent balance with slightly rolled off highs while the Ety ER4 is painfully bright with super-tight and to me, lacking and dry bass. The ER4 is among the most sterile and analytical IEM or headphone I've ever heard, and with an all solidstate signal chain it just spells trouble IMO. Personally I'd much rather grab a Shure E4, not it's not quite as detailed & resolving but I find the balance is a lot better and the tone is much more to my liking.
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And maybe someone can explain to me why the heck you would ever mount resistors like this:
I've always been told that doing that is a bad idea.
Heat dissipation, keeps the resistors from burnng the board. Though the way he does it would never meet standards. You're supposed to bend a kink like this to keep resistors and other parts off the board instead of going straight in.
I swear the switcher for the heaters looks exactly like an off the shelf unit.
That's because it is. I can buy a switcher very similar to it for $8 at the local surplus store, in fact they might even have the exact model.
And is that just me or does that PSU look about the size of a STEPS PSU?
No, it's not just you. Scaling off the IEC socket the picture is LARGER than life-size on my 17" monitor which is set to a 1024 x 762 resolution. That Plitron transformer's probably rated at around 20-25W tops. Which means this power supply is almost as underpowered as the original one.
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Drink tequila?
Actually I was thinking about gluing plastic tabs on them, marking up the price about 20 times, and then selling them as "amorphous high density insulating cable risers".
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I hate to be a party pooper and all but a Dynahi? Granted I've never heard one with an RS-1, but to date I've heard two of them with an HP-2 and my Grado 225 and I was not particularly happy with the combos. Yes it's detailed, extended, dynamic and so forth, but it doesn't do the full wrap-around soundstage of a good tube amp. It doesn't have the "reach out and touch it feel", then again, not much does. Also, better check the gain on the amp unless you want your ears blown out, I couldn't listen to one on the stock gain with Grados, way, way, way too loud.
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What the fuck is going on in this thread?
If I had to take a guess I'd say that some people aren't getting laid enough, but I could be wrong since I only took one Psychology course in university many years ago...
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Well...I guess I know what to do now with all the shot glasses I have lying around....
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I could have sworn there are dildoes (dildos?) that vibrate as well. What the fuck...I'm so confused...fuck it.
First we have vibrators, which are toys which vibrate. They come in many shapes, most are cylindrical with a tapered rounded end. Some have multiple heads, and there's even a vibrating rubber duck, but that's besides the point.
Then we have dildoes, which are soft or semi-soft toys which look like a penis. Generally made of silicone rubber.
From that, we derive the vibrating dildo, which is a semi-soft vibrating rubber penis.
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I just ordered one for my GF's birthday next month.
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Made a couple more changes. Power supply transformer is now fixed at 240V, and the 820R cathode resistors on the output tubes are now switchable between 1k and 640R. 1k is for 6SN7 and 6BX7 tubes, and 640R is for 6BL7's. 6BL7's are happier and sound more open at this new operating point, and the other 2 sound the same as before as far as I can tell.
This amp will cleanly drive any dynamic headphone I can think of, even the K1000. Tyll said it sounds good, so build my amp damnit!
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On my admittedly substandard computer setup it sounds like someone turned on the megabass boost for that little stretch of drumming. Sounds like normal bass drums, but with the bass turned way up.
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How come he dropped the 5u4g for the cheap diode rectifiers? Do you know?
Might be because they sound better. I have 12D4 damper diodes on my amp and briefly tried out a 5X4G. Wasn't quite as quiet as the damper diodes and the sound wasn't as natural, the highs were a tad more sibilant. Damper diodes also have a nice delayed turn-on which Kevin Gilmore said is essential for the life of the output tubes.
Now I can't confirm this but someone on the DIYaudioforums had an RCA catalogue from way back when with all the prices listed. A pair of 6AX4 or similar damper diodes actually costs more than a 5AR4 or other such large bottle full-wave rectifier. So they're cheaper now but not back then.
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Millet to M3 is IMO only a small upgrade at best that's not really worth it, especially with RS-1. To me the META, PPA, and M3 series of amps work better with Senns and don't get along quite as well with Grados. I'm in agreement with en480c4, save up for a while longer and then splurge on a high-end tube amp.
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I will until someone proves to me that amps, sources and cables measure significantly different before and after burn-in.
I mentioned on Head-fi a couple months back that HiFi News & Reviews (the June issue I believe) had done an article on cable break-in. What they basically did was take a brand new cable and set it up as a loop between the output & input of a soundcard. Then they ran a piece of music through it a bunch of times and plotted the errors and the spread between the errors. After that broke-in the cable and ran the tests again, with the result that there was less spread in the errors. They concluded that there was a difference, but that it's still too early to make a definitive statement and that it'll take more tests to come to a conclusion.
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Actually if you saw the MTV awards Samuel L Jackson said something like "the only thing better than 'Snakes on a Plane' is 'More Motherfucking Snakes on More Motherfucking Planes'". There's probably a clip of it somewhere on Youtube or google video.
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What the hell is going on at 1:39 of this track? That's more than a kick drum.
Yeah, it's 2 kick drums, either that or he's got a killer double kick pedal. I've heard pretty much the same thing except a lot louder with a lot more pounding at a Slayer concert.
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Secondly, they do a transformer type modification to the output stage of the E5. Since they claim they remove all the transistors, op amps etc.. what drives the trasformers? Are they driven directly from the dac chip itself? Has anyone eve heard a RAM player with this output transformer type output stage? I am definitely intrigued by this clearly different approach.
Haven't heard one from RAM, but I have heard a CD player (Biggie's) with transformer outputs, and it is the best CD player I've ever heard, and this includes Naim gear and the Class? Delta series. As I understand it the transformers get driven off the DAC chip(s), which filters out the ultrasonic noise and makes the sound smoother and more natural. Downside being the output voltage is a bit lower and it may have some difficulty driving long cable runs.
Transformer quality is critical, don't let them cheap out on you, get the good stuff like Lundahls.
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Beer and hookers for everyone!
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Power supply updated to Mk2Mod2 status. Now using a bigger transformer from the surplus store along with a hybrid bridge rectifier. Uses UF4007 diodes and 12D4 vacuum tubes, all resistors are 5W. Quieter, with less hiss & hum. Dead silent with my Senn 580 and K340, just a bit of background hiss & hum with my Grado 225, but I suspect it would be a problem for Ety & Shure owners. Still have some grounding & wire routing issues to clean up which should kill any remaining noise, but I'm too damn lazy.
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You're both totally right and you're both totally wrong. There, are you both fucking happy now?
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Does it look like there is the chance it could rain?
It'll rain if you want it to rain. There's also a firehose hooked up for some odd reason...
what is this idea from? a body axe commercial (or whatever it's called).It's loosely based on a real life event I once witnessed.
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The key to doing the tuning is to change only one thing at a time so you know which changes are doing what. It's a pretty obvious thing but many people (including myself at times) tend to forget that and/or lose patience and start changing more than one thing at once. Sometimes you get lucky, usually you don't, and in either case you have no idea which change made the improvement. Good luck, and I hope you find a tuning you're happy with.
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Do you have too much time on your hands or something?
I'm a unionized Federal government employee, which IS the definition of having too much time on my hands.
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Before I answer, serious question - could you please elaborate on the term "molested?" Thanks
The chicks are doing something to him, and it doesn't look like he's having fun. What they're doing to him I leave to your imagination, it could be anything from being tickled senseless to being anally violated with a strap-on.
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Ok, let's suppose that you're walking to the local bar/corner store/whatever and you have to cut through a small public park to get there. While walking through the park, you see some guy on the ground being molested by a group of attractive females. What do you do? Whip out your fancy cellphone and take pictures/movies of it? Offer to take the guy's place? Whip out your willy and masturbate? What do you do??!!
Any thoughts on some of the new entrants in the highend tube amp sector?
in Headphone Amplification
Posted
I know, and IMO it's still pretty borderline at best. From spec sheets, 5687's are good for 7.5W per tube on the high voltage plates, 12AX7 is 2.4W, for a theoretical max of 17.4W. Let's say the tubes are run at about 80% of max which is typical of many modern designs, that gives 14W. Assuming a 25W donut that's not too bad, leaves about 10W for the caps & regulators. A 20W toroid and that margin's getting pretty thin. Take into account the current spikes from the caps charging up on each AC cycle and that margin's close to gone.
Personally I want the donut to be rated for at least twice the power that the tubes are pulling, and preferably 4 times or more.