Kerry
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Posts posted by Kerry
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I've been away too long working on a CNC machine.
Birgir that is an absolutely beautiful chassis! Beats anything I had in mind.
Kevin - that looks scary
... but fun! -
Agreed. My understanding is that all the orginal boards / cases were spoken for, but we need to get that from Kevin.
There was a conversation regarding an additional run of boards, which Kevin said he wouldn't mind doing. That brought the heat sinks up as the major stumbling block. If we can solve that (and Marc this looks promising), then I think the world may have some more T2s.
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how i hate photoshop. If anyone has any better ideas to take a multi sheet pdf and stack the pages
with some transparency to make something that shows up without being 10mb...
You might try using the save to web function in the file menu and save it as a gif file. Much smaller output.
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Special head with a 1 inch carbide mill bit. Can do 4 inches max.
That is why the corners are that round.
I only need 2.95 less the .25 for the bottom. Should not be a problem.
Estimate of 20 hours of machine time including the heatsinks.
I have to say that you have the coolest toys
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Were you able to use the thicker ceramic insulators without having to re-solder the devices? It seems like you were just able to re-bend the leads a bit to get them to sit right.
I love the black nylon screws.
final power supply picture with the ceramic insulators and the nylon cap head screws (#4-40 x .5)Also used the special double thickness nylon nuts which really hold things tight...
Screws came from Mcmaster-Carr, Not sure where the nylon nuts came from.
http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/t2power3.jpg
Will replace the washers on the amplifier tomorrow or sunday.
Going to need longer screws for the 2sa1486's.
By the way, the power supply is approximetly 29 lbs finished.
Amplifier chassis is about half that.
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What about Glass Filled Nylon. Here's one at McMaster-Carr. Search product 91221A220.
They don't come in 4-40 so you'd have to use 6-32, which will work with everything except the 2SA1486 devices.
They have an operating temperature range from -40 - +230 deg F. I don't see there electrical properties listed, but I have used them on the Blue Hawaii.
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I have a bunch of 4169G and 4180G pads. They are really nice, but the widths are more than .5", which is the mounting width of the devices. It's nice to know that the 4171G will work. I cracked one by over tightening, so you have to be careful. I think I will order some of these as well.
Not sure on the voltage rating of the glass filled PPS screws. I do worry a bit about the temperature limits (around 185 deg F for the ones I was looking at). Shouldn't normally be an issue but in a hot room it starts to get close.
Great idea on the current limiting supply!
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:)
:)Very cool stuff here! A KG designed balanced DAC - This is going on my list of things things I can't wait to build!
Nice work Inu.
A question on the spacers - I see the need on the hotter resistors, but are they needed on the diodes?
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Nice job Birgir!
I'm in awe. Red is cool
Anybody close to firing this up yet?
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Wow
Very cool that you have access to stuff like that!
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Yeah, I don't know why it is so painful to solder the umbilical cords / connectors.
Very nice job though
http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/t2chassis22.jpghttp://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/t2chassis23.jpg
I hate soldering these cables. 4.5 hours so far on the 3 of the 4 sets
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Here's another seller that I've used.
They have reasonable selection of hook-up wire if you poke around their store.
I've bought some 22-awg silver plated hookup wire from them recently.
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Wow. Just beautiful.
Looks like a long weekend ahead
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Looking absolutely awesome.
I just noticed how many holes there are in them boards. That'll take more than a few nights to stuff
I expect the results to be well worth it
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Looking good.
How are you connecting the chassis earth? Through ground or a separate connector.
amplifier back panel. The amphenol power jacks can mount on theinside as shown, so you can build it and wire it and then bolt it
to the back panel from the inside. Makes taking it apart if necessary
a breeze (something mikhail needed to learn). And the neutrik's are
in 2 pieces too...
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That's is going to look really nice.
Are the front and back plates extrusions as well or did you mount some angle on them?
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Very nice!
What's the dimensions on the chassis?
I love it when a plan comes togetherno errors yet, and i think i can probably sail thru the rest...
http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/t2chassis1.jpg
http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/t2chassis2.jpg
http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/t2chassis3.jpg
http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/t2chassis4.jpg
http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/t2chassis5.jpg
current BOM such as it is
http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/t2parts2.xls
I'm doing a custom radius cutter for the outside from a single blade
carbide bit, edm'd for the surface i want. (because I CAN!
)hand drill??? what are you guys nuts??? i'm going to cnc the stax jacks...
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So far so good. I've put Windows 7 RTM on several computers so far; a few upgrades and a few new installs. Everything is stable and performance is way up over Vista.
I'm starting to enjoy some of the new features especially in the task bar. I've installed both the x86 and 64 bit versions. Finally, the sound drivers don't skip in the 64 bit version. I can now feed my USB DAC from a 64 bit computer running Windows 7.
Media Center is now built into most versions and I really enjoy the interface. It even works well with a remote.
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I've been using the RC version for a while now. Definitely uses less resources than Vista and its more easily tweeked to control what comes up on system start.
I also saw that MSDN will have it on the 6th. Seems, like I'll be doing some upgrades
I have a media center setup that really doesn't cut it under Vista. I'm looking forward to the upgrade. The 64 bit version will now support HD playback natively. I'm going to give that a shot and see how it works.
I'm also looking at Microsoft Security Essentials for virus protection. I'm trying to keep it as thin as possible.
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Hey Ari,
Happy Birthday.
... but fun!
The ultimate DIY? A Stax SRM-T2!
in Do It Yourself
Posted
I agree. I use DipTrace and put the spice info into each component export the net list and then load and run in LTSpice. I was able to simulate the Blue Hawaii like this. The only issue was getting the 2SJ79 to simulate correctly. I got it close in the end. A nice benefit of this is that the schematic is tied to the board layout and tied to the spice model so you know that you have things connected correctly.