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Neusdoorn

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About Neusdoorn

  • Birthday 01/15/1975

Converted

  • Headphones
    Audio Technica AD-700, Beyerdynamic DT-880 (2005), Sennheiser HD-650, HD-485, PX-100, Sony MDR-V6
  • Headphone Amps
    Graham Slee Solo, Practical Devices XM5
  • Sources
    30GB iPod, Benchmark DAC1
  • Other Audio Gear
    NAD C272, Quad 21Ls in piano black

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  1. How's that? Do they simply not lock on RSA gear, or is there another method to release them?
  2. I'd skimmed that article in past. Reading it thoroughly helped. To add further confusion, I've noticed a few very expensive headphone amps that have balanced I/O yet are SE internally as the builder feels it "sounds better". Still wondering why the NX-33, Apache and B-52 have weird front XLR jacks, sans retention clips. Observation: NX-33 and B-52 have XLRs flipped from what HeadAmp/Headroom/All-the-other-manufacturers do. Is there a function to that, or did they put their XLR jacks on upside-down pointlessly?
  3. I knew about the two pins on the Senn connectors, but I'm still confused as to how the driver responds to the balanced signal. I read somewhere that balanced headphones aren't "truly" balanced, but I know nothing other than that. Also, since the stock cable is able to be reterminated, that means it has four separate conductors, both channels' negative wires tied to ground with stock termination?
  4. Some really interesting stuff here. I've never used the DAC1's headphone outputs. I got the Solo before the DAC1, so I never needed to fall back on it. I've heard of people using attenuated line-level outputs instead of a headphone amplifier, and it's a little more fiddly than I'd like. I figure a variable resistor would prove much clunkier than a nice knob. I wish I'd gotten into the game earlier, didn't the GS-X used to cost $1900 or similar? So, there are proven advantages to using a balanced headphone amp, in terms of electronic properties, as you've basically got two headphone amps in one box, functioning as monoblocks. I'm still at a loss as to how the headphones are driven when balanced. In a normal, single-ended setup with the HD650s positive is actively driven, and negative is a return wire, whereas in balanced, both positive and negative are actively driven? I'm a bit muddled because the headphone's internal cabling is still identical, so wouldn't the active driving of the negative wire be useless? Balanced headphones are weird. Thanks for the pointer. On a side note, how much do the parts cost, to make a headphone cable with 2 bog-standard Neutrik XLRs and a few feet of a nice balanced cable like Belden 1800F? I know the Cardas connectors for Sennheiser headphones are pretty expensive.
  5. For a long time now I've wanted to go balanced, but never really sat down and looked at all the offerings. As far as the big names go, there's the RSA Apache, HeadAmp GS-X, RudiStor NX-33, Headroom Balanced Desktop. Right off the bat, the Apache and NX-33 are knocked out of the running based on what I've read about the manufacturers here. Also, a small thing I've noticed: While the Headroom Balanced Desktop and GS-X have tabs to release the XLRs, the other two don't. Does this mean the XLRs don't lock as they should, or is there some other mechanism to hold them in place? As far as price goes, the GS-X is a little rich for my blood, and the Balanced Desktop can no longer be had without the DAC, which is unfortunate as it'd be totally useless to me. I don't know much about DIY offerings, or DIY builders. I know Rockhopper has a balanced Mini^3 pre-built, but I'm not sure how that would stack up against the desktop-intended designs, such as a balanced M^3, or, if I went totally insane, a balanced Beta 22 - I know those things can cost as much as a Balanced Desktop in parts alone. Though, after reading Dreadhead's findings, is there really much/any benefit to going balanced? I've also wondered for some time how exactly balanced helps, other than eliminiating issues that stem from a common ground. I mean, with my HD650, the cable inside the headphones is unchanged, so how would connecting a balanced cable change how the drivers operate, internally? In my search, I came across Headroom's graphs, which illustrate a substantial difference between balanced and unbalanced headphones of the same model. Could it be that either Headroom or Dreadhead's methodology is incorrect? Lastly, cables. I am not a cable believer, but it would seem the only commercial offerings are $200+ for a balanced HD650 cable. I know those Cardas Sennheiser connectors are $30 a pair and each Neutrik XLR costs $5 for the base model, but still.. That's a lot to charge in labor, I think. Are there any DIY builders who sell for less?
  6. I was out today, picking up some overpriced breakout adapters from Best Buy for a friend, and while there I checked out the audio section. Boy, do I regret that. Threw on the unknown circumaural Bose headphones, they sounded... not terrible. The bass wasn't bloated and overpowering, mids weren't recessed. I was quite shocked. Has the massive criticism really been undeserved? I asked if I could hook my PX100s up. Sales droid says sure. Same song's still playing, I swap the headphones and come to a horrid realization: They've got a heavy-handed equalizer going. It ruined the frequency response of the PX100s. Anemic bass, overblown mids, screeching treble. The former is really saying something, as the PX100s have a hell of a bass hump. They turned the frequency response into a perfect line, like this guy's hat: . The folded up PX100 drivers plus the raised headband "eyebrows" making for a perfect "disappointed" face. Thusly, I adopt the tier-based system. Everything I Own >>>>>> iPod Earbuds = Bose Circumaural Monstrosities.
  7. Sound quality's not a huge issue. He's got different audio priorities than I. He's got a $1600 Warwick bass, $1000 split between amp/cab, yet he's usually happy to listen to his 192 kbps MP3s through laptop speakers. I checked out Westone's online store, UM1s presently retail for $110, so I gather they can be had for well under $100 used. I've got a second conundrum: Do I shock him with how good headphones can sound, prompting him to begin collecting, buying amps and DACs, or merely present him with something a few tiers above iPod earbuds? Angel versus devil indeed.
  8. I think you've misread a bit - I said both meet the criteria of being available in colors other than white. I'm honestly not sure how important that is. I keep seeing alarmist reports when I check the morning news about people being mugged at bus stops, etcetera, simply because their white headphone cable was a give-away to the expensive DAP sitting in their pocket. If I wanted to steal things to feed my crack addiction, I'd be mugging people regardless of their brand preference. Admittedly, black IEMs are tougher to spot, especially in the evening. My friend's a bassist, so I'm fairly sure he's wanting realistic lower frequencies.
  9. You're more dangerous than you know. Back in the early 90s I was pretty into photography, had a good few grand invested. Sold it off to help fund a car better than the beater I had been driving. Flash forward to the early 2000s and I got a crummy point-and-shoot which turned out nothing but noisy, blurry images unless it was on a tripod shooting something stationary. In early 2005 I decided enough was enough, and picked up a used 20D with a 50/1.8. Since then I've replaced both, (30D and 50/1.4, respectively.), got a 580EX, 70-200/2.8, 85/1.8, 17-40/4, a nice tripod, and a few other things. Suffice to say, I'm back where I started, financially. Headphones and photography are constantly battling for funds.
  10. Short answer: Run away. The thing is, a SLR is still the best thing going for active photography, in my books. You can get "bridge" cameras which have a tiny LCD in the viewfinder, so they simulate a SLR despite not having a mirror. In my opinion, they're junk. Electronic viewfinders are worse than no viewfinder at all. I like seeing what I'm shooting - It may be less of an issue with a digital rangefinder as you can quickly review your shot, but through-the-lens viewing is still important to me. You might try a Pentax DSLR with a set of their pancake lenses - 21, 35, 40, 70mm. Admittedly, they're all expensive for their performance, and slow. Really, I think if you're not willing to compromise on size, the best option is an entry-level DSLR, such as Pentax's K2000, or a Canon XS/XSi. They tend to be lighter and smaller than the semi-pro alternatives, but one of the boons to a large DSLR is when you have a reasonably large lens on, you have a sturdy, easy-to-hold body. I feel some of that's lost with smaller bodies, plus lower-end models tend to use cheaper materials, and substitute hard plastic for rubberized grips. If you merely want something better than your current point-and-shoot, there are better models - But you simply can't get the high-ISO performance, focusing speed, or general responsiveness out of anything but a DSLR.
  11. Nifty. Seems it's possible to land either for around $80 plus shipping. I neglected to think about one criteria, but both meet it - They're not white. Ought to lower his chances of being mugged by crackheads looking to fence some iPods. It's nice that both come with an assortment of tips, as well. I guess deeper insertion means better isolation in many cases - It's likely a trade-off he's willing to make.
  12. So, one of the main reasons I finally joined Head-Case (after reading here and the other place for ages) was that my friend asked me to help him find an IEM. He's got a Christmas bonus and wants to spend a portion on an IEM that'll improve his bus ride into work. I'm wholly ignorant to portable audio (Barring my PX100 and XM5, which I only have because they're "transportable" with my laptop.) and thusly can't really make any good recommendations. I came here because I don't want to be recommended whatever the flavor of the month is and then be told it's junk a month later. As far as what I think he'd like: Comfort's a must, as his bus ride isn't short. Isolation's pretty important - For both shutting out ambient noise, and thusly not prompting him to turn up his iPod and damage his hearing. Sound quality is important more to me than him, I think. He's coming from iBuds. It needs to do well without an amplifier - Not exactly difficult to find in IEM-land, I imagine. This isn't actually set in stone, I may tell him to pick up one of those teeny Fiio amplifiers. Lastly, price. The cheaper the better, but paying extra for durability beats buying a new pair in six months. Cheaply replaceable tips are a plus.
  13. Of what I currently have: HD650 > DT880 > AD700 > V6 > PX100 > HD485 I started with the HD485 (paid what I later discovered was a ridiculous price from a local dealer) some time ago and thought they sounded just great - And indeed they did, compared to my Logitech 2.1 system. The PX100s were my second pair of reasonably nice headphones, I bought them the day before I left for a month's tour of Germany. Glad I did, I fell in love with their tonal characteristics. Next came the HD650s, as I figured that since I loved Sennheiser's sound so far, why not head for the top? At this time I was starting to read more of the other place, and discovered that maybe my onboard sound wasn't all it was cracked up to be. Ended up with my Solo and DAC1 some months later, and fell in love with what I had once again. The HD485s were my least favourite of the three, they seem to have somewhat bloated bass for my tastes - Whereas the HD650s control their bass wonderfully. The V6 came next, it was a birthday gift from a friend who ordered one pair, but received two. Not a huge fan of it, as it's kind of uncomfortable. Sounds fine, certainly one of the better buys in its price class. The AD700 and DT880 are only a few months old. I bought them because I wanted to venture out from my predominantly Sennheiser leanings. I'd have a nice Austrian/German trifecta if I'd managed to snag a K601 when Headroom had their sale, but alas I missed it. The DT880 deserves its reputation as a remarkably flat 'phone, but it's too anemic in terms of bass for me. The AD700 is fine, but I find it doesn't do anything spectacularly well - Hence why it's in the middle of the pack. Eventually I hope to sell off the AD700, HD485. The PX100s are nice travel companions, especially as I now have a laptop and the XM5. Also, this is my first post! Been reading some older posts and it's nice to see some honesty, versus the other place.
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