kevin gilmore

looks like all the parts are available to build that. 2sk170GR, GR only. A board to do that would be pretty trivial if we can't buy in the usa. Still going to cost more than a standard linear I think.

where did you get the power supply board?

the 5pf cap needs to be 1000v not sure about the other one

I use a very small machinists vice like this https://www.southern-tool.com/store/wilton-super-precision-tool-makers-steel.php mine is about 40 years old, and even better built, no idea where I got it

the fact is that unless i use piles of NC machines to make stuff (in which case i'm not really making it) birgir and justin do a way better job of assembly. I just don't have the patience.

so i have a blind yorkie and a friend has a blind dachsund will that work. seriously my 3 remaining dogs, turn on the classical music and they sit on the floor and don't move, wagging tails.

actually the top does not come off, the boards are bolted to it. the bottom comes off. (paging steve...) its Purdy on the inside, birgir will have to post pictures.

lets call it solid state grounded grid. and yes this is the first one with a silicon carbide fet.

http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/kgsshvcarbonservo.jpg

I like this idea, will simulate soon actually there is a voltage reference, its ground. looks good.

you do have the wood grounded.... its important

i used the taller ones on the krell klone, i liked them better because they only had one hole

if that is one of the 2 sections in one section things, those are awful.

some future boards, probably the dynaloss would be 3 or 4 layers if i go completely surface mount. not really possible on the kgsshv boards

it is a dc amp, however the servo's will cause issues measuring dc. of the 5 pots i bought for this, i was only able to use 2 of them the others had problems either at low volumes and high volumes

its the same heatsink as the krell klone. (can't find it at the moment) the 2sc4686a parts are insulated, so just thermal washers both sides, screw and nut

those are insulated parts, so just regular thermal washer,screw and nut.

yep, how I did that I do not know. it was still possible to build that board, you had to bend the pins and solder all the parts that were not the output devices standing up and backwards. a lot of clean up and various traces on both sides the same exact length just for extra fun. and some ground plane on the bottom. new version http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/kgdynalobal7.jpg

another of the active bias cable nonsense anyone recognize the manufacturer?

major error in the surface mount version of this board, fixed I think, someone please check http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/boards/kgdynalobal7.zip

yep fully differential input. balanced or unbalanced. for unbalanced in, you tie the - input to ground.

there is no way he could have been that good of a shot.

actually i did one amp this way with multiple taps off the zeners... worked fine and all the parts were already there, just add one output resistor caps in parallel with zeners usually is a bad thing

actually WAY back then there were ceramic spacers for doing that. speaking of knobs, got in a piece of ebony, completely coated in wax. took the wax off and turned it round. completely black. then 3 days later 4 major cracks due to the wood being very wet. so pissed off. a piece of kiln dried ebony on the way. another vendor says there is no such thing as kiln dried ebony. precious metals are so much easier... want r-core transformers so bad...

wow, all the holes on the bottom in a straight line. good job. resistors really did not have to be that far off the board, but looks nice, all even. I'm sure birgir has a picture of a particular persons build (cough cough henyo cough cough) where the bottom of the thing was attacked with a hand drill and he should post it.