kevin gilmore

so birgir is a little bit off. With Justin's rubber feet The whole thing is 18 inches x 18 inches x 25 inches from the bottom of the power supply feet to the top of the tubes. yikes. USPS finally has pulled their heads out of their asses with slightly slower shipping for packages over 25 lbs, for a bunch less money. So only $165 to ship the brick of aluminum to Iceland. And it was over 51 lbs. Previously to ship T2 chassis which was 34 lbs was about $225 When he is done with this one, I will ship him the es1 I have. With the transformers. Then the only monster I will have left is the SS1 which is such a complete clusterfuck... Mikhail certainly was entertaining. I wonder who ended up with the gold plated sds-xlr?

at least the es2 is a sealed power supply box. my es1 has 2 large holes in the power supply box.

without the transformers without the tubes its 50 lbs

so how does it sound with hd800,lcd? etc... really people should build it with xlr jacks on the input, then if necessary use the neutrik rca to xlr adapters. I'm finishing my second one now, first time I have ever built more than one of the exact same item. Someone swiped my first one, and the chances of getting that back are pretty close to nil. part number of the power switch please. need to do a group buy of 4 deck rk27 10kohm... you did remember to remove the jumpers on the power supply board right??

actually ltspice is your friend. But its a bit of work. You can just overcompensate a bit, but then you won't be able to hear 150khz.

50k resistors and 5pf give a balanced gain of 14db which should be fine.

you should reduce the gain

and what is the voltage level. If its way high, then you definitely want to cut the gain of the headphone amp. some cut the balanced gain to 6.

birgir should have some quad pot boards left. also the layout is in the usual place.

green amphenol military connectors. Definitely the right way to go. very nice.

the square ones work fine with my stax jacks. the round ones work regardless. best to mount Justin's jacks to the front panel first, or drill all the way thru the front panel and use screws and nuts and then you can take it off.

use the little stax jack circuit boards. makes it easy.

so lets see cross coupled cathodes... Nope ultralinear... Nope enough gain to lower distortion... Nope local feedback around the phase inverter... Yup and bad too etc why didn't they just copy the mc40

ss dynahi way too much power for hd800's you would be much better off with the ss dynalo.

dynahi and especially the ss dynahi have a lot more output voltage swing and are suitable for he6. ksa5 not really suitable for he6 if you want to play loud. Sound however is fairly close.

The 1M servos are now 100k and the integration cap is 1uf. and the input resistors to ground are 100k (does not matter if you use the jfets) latest board pic http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/ubaltobald3.jpg

the pots on the opamps will actually do very little. and the front end is not cascaded the 10uf servo caps need to be 1uf and the bias resistor should be 240 to 255 ohms. change parts as necessary to make that board identical to the schematic.

what is the amp with the horizontal green stripes top and bottom?

the boards you have are the ss dynalo boards, here is the schematic http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/kgdynalobalssproduction.pdf your boards are slightly different. work fine with the that340 part and a 10k pot. just amazing sound into all headphones I have tried. the unbalanced to balanced thing is http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/ubaltobald.pdf and really the that340 needs to be replaced with fets for high impedance sources

on the first board you have to flip the leads on the 2n4393. if you well match the two fets, you can delete the servo.

i was using 6s4 in the GES about 10 years before everyone else the exstata was and continues to be a clusterfuck

remove the opamps. make sure the 2 pots that adjust output voltages are in exact center hook it up, and adjust the led bias pot for best output voltages around zero. put the opamps in, and adjust the other pots for pin6 on the opamp close to zero.

srmxh, srm212,srm313, srm323 are all exactly the same thing with different current source transistors and different power supply voltages. not sure about the srm3 cavalli LL2T is a srm313 front end, the 007t output section with 6s4 as the gain section and a completely wasted pair of mosfets as the output stage. Takes more power to drive the mosfet output stage, than if the gain section was the output section. At least it sounds better than the frist two versions (so really it should be a LL3) which were pure shit. Wonder where alex got the idea to use 6s4? The only way to make a srm323 better would be to regulate the power supply voltages. Which is impossible in that size box. would need a different transformer and twice as many power supply caps plus some heatsinking for the pass transistors

the klone was done exactly as the original. Same exact board size. Each component in exactly the same place. Layout the same. Except done by computer, not tape and mylar. Why, because we can. if you want a klone of a klone buy the cheap pieces of shit on ebay. they made all sorts of awful modifications.

the grateful dead altamont system