my clone is an EXACT clone. every part in the same physical location as the original.
Same exact board size etc. If I wanted to change it, it would not be an exact clone
http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/knobs6.jpg
bocote, lignum vitae, redheart
snakewood,arizona desert ironwood, ebony
black and white ebony
red mallee and cocobolo as soon as they dry out.
should be final rev's of these two boards
unbalanced/balanced to balanced
http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/ubaltobald3.zip
ss dynalo balanced
http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/kgdynalobal5.zip
I have tested it, listened to it, works great.
offset is 1.5mv
going to swap out the opa445 for op27 and then remove
the offset pots. and probably add a pot on the pnp current
source to do a final trim.
input impedance with the bipolars is 10k.
replace them with the jfets and it works better
because tyll's kgss absolutely needed a wood knob, I sent him the one
I made out of Arizona desert ironwood.
Which left me without one. So I had to make one, and I made another ebony one.
black and white ebony and snakewood hopefully tomorrow.
http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/knobs5.jpg
no idea. probably china too.
what evidently happened to wima is that when they switched to china
they changed the sizes of most products, making them smaller with
different films that are more tightly wound.
there is a thread over at diyaudio saying that since wima has moved production to china,
quality has turned to absolute shit.
time to buy caps from vishay
nopants you are fucking idiot. birgir and I spend hundreds of hours on this stuff
and you make a stupid joke. not funny
input board complete and works perfect. thd less than the base of my ancient test gear
(<.002% thd, and absolutely flat)
picture later.
balance pot has to be set in the middle or bad things may happen.
normally the pots are set to middle out of the box.
its usually pretty hard to do diode checks in circuit and get reliable info
if all the leds are lit it is working and maybe the one pot is shorted
you need a better solder sucker.
but what you can do instead is remove the 4 x 2.2k resistors
set the pot for maximum resistance to the xlr jacks, and wire
a new one that way
knobs need to be 2 inches or more thick.
reason is I have to have something to grab onto reliably to
put the insert in. once the insert is in, I can bring it down to
about .8 inch deep. machining into the insides of an expensive
2 inch collet chuck might get someone really pissed at me if
I make a mistake.
I have enough now for about 20 ebony knobs. but none
are absolutely black like the few I had made previously.
will be getting enough wood to make doug a pair of panels
anyway.
need to find someone that has been sitting on a piece of
pure black ebony for 30 or 40 years.
this is how it should be wired, but the pot is actually not wired like that if the footprint for the alps is correct
in their documentation
http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/chinesekgss.pdf