spritzer
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Posts posted by spritzer
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You mean the way the SR-5 drivers turned bad? I figured that it might have something to do with me fiddling around with them too much >< I'm thinking about having the faulty drivers re-built someday, maybe swapping out the thin films that connect the stators, resoldering all of the connections, etc. The stators should still be alligned, so there might be hope yet in their ressurection.
One problem with these drivers is the single point bias system so if there is any corrosion you'll get a very reduced output. Still I hate working with these drivers as they are very fragile...
I've emailed the asian distributor, but honestly I really like the idea of having a one of a kind enclosure for my HE60s
That would be cool. just make sure that the builder seals up the baffle airtight.
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The small hole resulted in a very noticeable channel imbalance
Good thing I had a spare pair of membranes from the faulty SR-5 drivers.I've never had this happen to me and there is no theoretical reason for this...it could be a bad connection but the old SR-X driver are very temperamental beasts...
\Well, the place where I got the drivers from said they couldn't order it from Sennheiser, so I assumed that the enclosure pieces aren't available anymore. At least I won't need the cable since I have an extra 2.5M of stax extension cable left.I think it would be worth a shot to talk to the local distributor, Senn USA or some of the big ones. I'm sure they still have the parts as they cost next to nothing to make and Sennheiser has a bit of an obsession with spare parts.
The Sennheiser cable is pure crap so you are much better off with a Stax extension.
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Did anybody notice the power consumption on the right...13A
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That's a whopping 3.33% difference so no. Such a small difference will not be noticeable. I'm much more interested in the recommended bleeder resistor as that might cause some compatibility issues.
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You should be psyched in this case but yeah, it does run contrary to way things normally go for you folks across the pond.
We are getting screwed constantly.
One nice thing this evening was that the post came with a package and I didn't have to pay anything... I'm really digging my Stax Gamma Pro's The RK40 is a very nice pot and I have a small stash here with me. It's a bit sad that my new source makes all volume controls redundant...
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Ok cool. It's still odd that something is cheaper over here with our fun VAT and other small expenses the state burdens us with.
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Not in the US you can't and we're dealing with present market value, are you going to tell me that OOP Grado headphones are only worth what the original MSRP was? I would have thought that captain stax would have understood the nature of goods increasing in value over time.
They are 50$ here in Europe... on ebay....
You can find them even cheaper in Japan if you know where to look. I know full well about the recent price influx... it's making my collection so much harder to put together.
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Less vibrations is always better. Have you ever watched a cd spin as it is quite a workload for the error correction.
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You can get an RK40 for about 50$(edit:typo) and it was even cheaper when this amp was made. I wonder what those caps are?
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I feel the same way. I'm not going to use some crappy 2k$ player and invest a lot in tweaks to fix something that is a fringe tweak. Some disks are way off balance and they will benefit from this with the reduced vibration and wobble. I will also try an APL tweak to resample some of my disks to 88.2/24 and burn them as DVD-A's. It is supposed to be a good step forward.
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The lathe is to make the CD perfectly round. That makes perfect sense given how they are produced since the center hole is rarely completely in the right place. That beveled edge might work but I file it under green markers and other fringe tweaks.
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I'm using the SR-5NB's membranes in the transplanted gamma drivers, because I accidentally poked a small hole in one of the GP's membranes <___<
Poked a hole in the diaphragm!!!!!!
I think going to lay down a cry for a bit... The driver should work just fine with a small hole. One of my Micro Seiki's produced sound with the film in small flakes...
Ummm I need a built-from-scratch HE60 enclosure, how much would a job like that cost me?
Are you sure you can't order the two pieces from Sennheiser? I'm pretty sure they get exchanged a lot during repairs because of the stupid screws they used. You need the front and back parts of the housing, the rubber o-ring that seals the baffle and a headband... and a cable... can't be that hard to get.
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nice. digital inputs on a CD player are really handy.
They are a necessity in todays world with all these digital sources.
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did you get the digital inputs, spritzer?
The player was originally modded with a digital input as well as XLR and RCA outputs, both available with the flick of a switch.
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Wow... You're getting an APL too? My dream player is the 3.0 even though I haven't even heard it before. If its better than a X-01 Limited or EMM Labs stack, then it must be ridiculously good.
I'm not getting a NWO but a fully upgraded 3910. It will be fine in my headphone setup but I'll get an NWO when I switch to speakers.
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Don't APL Hi Fi also do DSD-PCM than some ridiculously fancy upsampling?
Yup, every thing is converted to PCM and fed through a 211kHz/32bit upsampler and then into the array of 32bit dacs. My player should be at APL in the morning for its 32bit update.
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There is a lot more experience in PCM decoding compared to DSD so PCM is a lot more advanced even though DSD is technically "better". If DSD won't die a quiet death then some real progress could made in the next 10 years.
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My SR-5NB is a long way off "stock" though - it has a wide PC-OCC cable and Gamma Pro drivers (with the original 2um membrane), and it sounds awesome out of just about anything <3
Pretty cool but I'm sure that the Gamma's have a 1.5um diaphragm. I think the NB could be better then all of the other SR-5's as the plastic is different but I haven't tested this theory.
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I'm certainly not going to reveal my sources but I can assure you it can be done. I just bought a SR-Sigma for 55$ and a Lambda Signature for 74$. There is often a chance that they won't work but then I'll just have some extra spare parts, no harm done. It is very much possible to put together a killer setup for 500$.
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There is only one option in my book, to find a Stax SR-Lambda and adapter for about 200$ (can be done!) add some vintage amp and one of the better 80's early 90's DAC's. Killer system for 500$.
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he's no martin short, thats for sure!
Burn!!!!
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The SR-007 should be right up your alley since nothing can do bass like they can and I gather you like the temporary bass heavy stuff. They can track even the most complex bass line long after the He90 and SR-Omega have turned into a bloated mess of reverberations.
Damn, you bought the RFT tubes from East Germany. Crimped plates and the dimple are true signs of their origins. They aren't bad tubes by any means and much better then all of the current production stuff but don't pay more then 100$ for a quad.
I'm just playing with my newest toy, the Jecklin Floats PS2's, and thinking up ways of making them better. Looks like a SR-007 headband with custom made forks and wooden housing for the drivers. Then I have to have some leather earpads hand made...
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1uf does present a problem and if space wasn't a problem I'd go for some large PIO vintage cap as some of them are very good indeed. The humble site seems to be ok and free of the hype that can surround these things and his recommendations are sound. You have of course read the 21 cap comparison that has been floating on the net and while it is far from perfect it is a good reference point along with the humble site and other feedback. I haven't heard those caps so I can't comment on them but you could always find some cheap Soviet stuff on ebay. The class capsule PIO caps are both small and pretty good (and dirt cheap) if you can find them in the correct value.
They are Vishay MKP 1841's that I used. I initially bought them as parts for my KGSS but since I buy a lot of extras I had some spare ones and a friend need caps in the value we tried them out and I was amazed at the result. They are certainly much better then the crap Wima is making so it's no wonder the Stax has been using them as couplers all these years even in the ultra expensive SRM-T2.
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I assume you're talking about SCR/Solen caps, but which caps do you prefer? I'm looking for some coupling caps myself, but heck are they expensive (V Cap TFT, Sonicap Platinum, Relcap TFT, SCR TFT, Mundorf silver/oil, Audio Note PIO, etc)!
Well some hand made Kondo silvers would be nice but they'll have to wait until I get a M7 or M77 for my speaker rig. On the budget end the Vishay MKP's are tough to to beat and a much better then most more expensive film caps. You can also try out some of the vintage Soviet PIO caps on ebay but they vary in quality. Going up the ranks the Mundorf Silver/Oils would be my next step. They are expensive but I really like how these caps sound and their 1200v DC rating is a huge plus for us in the electrostatic world. The V-caps are incredibly good but the price is starting to become silly as it would cost nearly 1k$ to outfit a Aristaeus. I still think that they are worth it but better used in the more crucial parts of the circuit.
There are other caps that I've spent some time with such as the AN Copper and Silver models, Jensen copper foil and some of the teflon caps and all are great but I can't compare them directly like those other 3. I'd really like to try some AN silvers for an extended period of time but they cost to damn much and I don't like to support AN UK...
Good thing I had a spare pair of membranes from the faulty SR-5 drivers.
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One nice thing this evening was that the post came with a package and I didn't have to pay anything... 
I think going to lay down a cry for a bit... 
Post the last thing you bought!
in Off Topic
Posted
Not with all channels driven at once, apparently.