spritzer
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Posts posted by spritzer
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I don't think the mods on my Sony is anything but simple (about 7K worth of modifications - I bought the unit for a fraction of the cost though). I would love to hear some of APL creations though.
Some are more complicated then others. The whole fault with Sony units was a horrible output stage and some questionable things on the dac boards. A normal eXemplar or Modwright mod is a new clock and outputstage with a replacement of a number of components but it's pretty far from a complete redesign. They still do solid work at a lower price and that is to be commended. Some of the other modders... are more questionable.
I can't wait to get mine...
While you may get better bang for your buck, depending on the mod company, I wouldn't necessarily say there there is inherently better service. Depending on what shell your player uses, getting it serviced can be a real pain, assuming there are places that can get or have parts and are willing to service it. So in my mind there are definite drawbacks to owning a modded player. And yes I own one and have heard others.
For my next player that's one of the debates I'm having.
This is certainly true as most modders are spread very thin with a lot of different manufacturers and not very many units of any one kind but APL stopped doing that a long time ago. If my Denon will need to be repaired it will go back to APL. I know they have been replacing drives and all the usual stuff that fails and they will continue to support it. Some of the modders aren't as helpful to say the least...
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Wonder how the Exemplar and Modwright units measure up to APL stuffs.
Going with those comparisons I've read they don't stand a chance. They are after all simple mods while the APL is a complete rebuild.
not everyone wants heavily modded gear.
Why on earth not? You get much better service and better bang for your buck. The product is never outdated as if there is a new version you just send yours in to be updated. The APL gear isn't really a modification as they are working with Esoteric so i would much rather call it a rebuild, doing things Esoteric could never do and stay profitable.
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OK, so there will be plenty of driving voltage. However, in my case there aren't any transformers anywhere in the amp, so I would assume that the bias voltage would be the same as the driving voltage, that is 500V.
From what I've been able to gather, the bias voltage is essentially determining "how far" the drivers will move to either side. How will a bias voltage of 500V affect the sound, then? I would assume that either dynamics and/or maximum volume would be affected to some degree?
Excuse me for being so dull, I'm trying to grasp some rudimentary electrostat knowledge here, I'm sure.
You don't need any transformers to generate the bias. It's almost always generated by a voltage multiplier which is just what the name suggest i.e. it takes any input voltage and outputs a multiple of said input voltage. The level of multiplication depends on how many stages there are. You can also just borrow the bias from the HV or B+ line as it's current is so small. I'm certain your amp has a 560-580v bias.
The bias voltage is the potential of the driver and it's voltage depends on the airgap between a stator and diaphragm. Stax used 200-230v for it Normal system and that has a distance of 0.3mm from stator to diaphragm. The Pro bias has a bias of 580v and a distance of 0.5. A keen observer sees that this isn't linear in the common sense and the reason for that is that the strength of an electrostatic field falls by the square of the distance. A closer space gives you more output at a lower voltage level but you get more excursion as the space gets bigger. Like everything in life this is a compromise and by studying ESL design you can know a lot about the design by simply listening to it.
When you go to a lower bias voltage you loose more potential of the driver so it's harder for the drive voltage to make the diaphragm move. Stax says that the sound will be softer and that's exactly true as the drive voltage can't control the driver as well.
Also trying to grasp rudimentary e-stat concepts and guidelines for suitable performance and gear matching.
So . . . how well would the HEV90 (or HEV70 in an extreme case), which I believe has a bias of 500V, drive the HE90 clone, which has a bias of 600V?
The HEV70 has a 540v bias but there are other factors here such as the bleeder resistor. This resistor controls the amount of charge there is on the diaphragm at any given time and it has to be at the right size for any given design as the coating material for the diaphragm will vary greatly. If HEAudio used graphite to coat the diaphragm then it will loose it's charge rapidly (relatively) when compared to the Sennheiser coating. That could cause stability issues but shouldn't really be a problem in the real world.
The effect of a lower bias will depend on the D/S spacing like I said before but the sound should loose definition and some focus.
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Just buy an APL player and be done with it. You can have a digital input, volume control and a universal player that plays any of the old formats. I don't quite know what the price and features of the newest players but you should drop Alex a line. The guy who sold me my APL 3910 compared it to a dCS P8i and ARC Ref3 line stage (the APL has a built in volume control) the last day before he shipped it out and the other gear was blown away in every aspect. That's 25k$ against a 4k$ player and it's not even the newest version. This was in an email sent to Alex and not me where the seller said he was nuts for selling me the player and he wanted a NWO soon. Now mine is even better with the new AKM 32bit.
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That will only happen if they are left to fully loose all charge over some weeks. Then they will require time to spring back to life. The 500v he is referring to is driving voltage and not bias voltage.
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You only need about 100-250v to get the phones to a normal listening level so 500v has plenty of headroom. These are all RMS numbers so peek-peek values would be higher. The bias voltage has nothing to do with the drive voltages other then that they have to be with in a certain ratio to function correctly.
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Ahhh no,no we are talking about two totally different things. I thought you wanted to connect a Stax trafo to the tubes but I now see it was a result of me being barely awake.
All the amps see with a Stax trafo is a benign 8ohm load but the transformer turns that into the 5kohm that electrostatics like (transformer ratio 2*input impedance) as well as stepping up the voltage and reducing the current.
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I wouldn't connect them to a Stax transformers except maybe the other way around for a cheap/small/crappy output transformer for a push-pull amp. If you were to connect it before the output transformer of a SET amp you'll end up with a 1:25 step up of the output voltage of the tube. The output transformer steps down the voltage, impedance and steps up the current for dynamic speaker use. You can connect Stax phones directly to the tubes through a capacitor, no transformer needed. You will need some load on the tubes to make the amp more stable but thats given.
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Well it does do 170W x 10 channels
Not with all channels driven at once, apparently.
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You mean the way the SR-5 drivers turned bad? I figured that it might have something to do with me fiddling around with them too much >< I'm thinking about having the faulty drivers re-built someday, maybe swapping out the thin films that connect the stators, resoldering all of the connections, etc. The stators should still be alligned, so there might be hope yet in their ressurection.
One problem with these drivers is the single point bias system so if there is any corrosion you'll get a very reduced output. Still I hate working with these drivers as they are very fragile...
I've emailed the asian distributor, but honestly I really like the idea of having a one of a kind enclosure for my HE60s
That would be cool. just make sure that the builder seals up the baffle airtight.
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The small hole resulted in a very noticeable channel imbalance
Good thing I had a spare pair of membranes from the faulty SR-5 drivers.I've never had this happen to me and there is no theoretical reason for this...it could be a bad connection but the old SR-X driver are very temperamental beasts...
\Well, the place where I got the drivers from said they couldn't order it from Sennheiser, so I assumed that the enclosure pieces aren't available anymore. At least I won't need the cable since I have an extra 2.5M of stax extension cable left.I think it would be worth a shot to talk to the local distributor, Senn USA or some of the big ones. I'm sure they still have the parts as they cost next to nothing to make and Sennheiser has a bit of an obsession with spare parts.
The Sennheiser cable is pure crap so you are much better off with a Stax extension.
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Did anybody notice the power consumption on the right...13A
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That's a whopping 3.33% difference so no. Such a small difference will not be noticeable. I'm much more interested in the recommended bleeder resistor as that might cause some compatibility issues.
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You should be psyched in this case but yeah, it does run contrary to way things normally go for you folks across the pond.
We are getting screwed constantly.
One nice thing this evening was that the post came with a package and I didn't have to pay anything... I'm really digging my Stax Gamma Pro's The RK40 is a very nice pot and I have a small stash here with me. It's a bit sad that my new source makes all volume controls redundant...
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Ok cool. It's still odd that something is cheaper over here with our fun VAT and other small expenses the state burdens us with.
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Not in the US you can't and we're dealing with present market value, are you going to tell me that OOP Grado headphones are only worth what the original MSRP was? I would have thought that captain stax would have understood the nature of goods increasing in value over time.
They are 50$ here in Europe... on ebay....
You can find them even cheaper in Japan if you know where to look. I know full well about the recent price influx... it's making my collection so much harder to put together.
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Less vibrations is always better. Have you ever watched a cd spin as it is quite a workload for the error correction.
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You can get an RK40 for about 50$(edit:typo) and it was even cheaper when this amp was made. I wonder what those caps are?
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I feel the same way. I'm not going to use some crappy 2k$ player and invest a lot in tweaks to fix something that is a fringe tweak. Some disks are way off balance and they will benefit from this with the reduced vibration and wobble. I will also try an APL tweak to resample some of my disks to 88.2/24 and burn them as DVD-A's. It is supposed to be a good step forward.
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The lathe is to make the CD perfectly round. That makes perfect sense given how they are produced since the center hole is rarely completely in the right place. That beveled edge might work but I file it under green markers and other fringe tweaks.
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I'm using the SR-5NB's membranes in the transplanted gamma drivers, because I accidentally poked a small hole in one of the GP's membranes <___<
Poked a hole in the diaphragm!!!!!!
I think going to lay down a cry for a bit... The driver should work just fine with a small hole. One of my Micro Seiki's produced sound with the film in small flakes...
Ummm I need a built-from-scratch HE60 enclosure, how much would a job like that cost me?
Are you sure you can't order the two pieces from Sennheiser? I'm pretty sure they get exchanged a lot during repairs because of the stupid screws they used. You need the front and back parts of the housing, the rubber o-ring that seals the baffle and a headband... and a cable... can't be that hard to get.
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nice. digital inputs on a CD player are really handy.
They are a necessity in todays world with all these digital sources.
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did you get the digital inputs, spritzer?
The player was originally modded with a digital input as well as XLR and RCA outputs, both available with the flick of a switch.
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Wow... You're getting an APL too? My dream player is the 3.0 even though I haven't even heard it before. If its better than a X-01 Limited or EMM Labs stack, then it must be ridiculously good.
I'm not getting a NWO but a fully upgraded 3910. It will be fine in my headphone setup but I'll get an NWO when I switch to speakers.
ChiUnuion-Fi
in Meet Impressions
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A lower resistor would possibly lead to arcing and if something does go wrong it is there to protect you as it burns up with very little current going through it.
The HEV amps are not matched to the HE phones in any way. The only way an amp can hurt ES phones (ESP's?) is by arcing them with too much output voltage. That simply isn't going to happen with any of the amps currently avaialble.
The HEAudio 1.3 is in no way, shape or form a HE90 clone so they shouldn't be compared like that. The construction is very different and it is hard to speculate about them unless I have spent sometime with them here and disassembled them.