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  • Location
  • Headphones
    Stax SR-009, Stax SR-007A, Beyer T1,
  • Headphone Amps
  • Sources
    Resonessence Invicta

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  1. Wow what a beauty! Very nicely done, internally as well as the chassis. Congrats!
  2. Thanks guys. @livewire I made the knobs myself. Quite some time ago I sold a few pieces here. They are made from a piece of amboyna burl, mother of pearl inlay, PUR boats lacquer. As usual I would not simply call one better than the other. For the SR007mk3 I clearly prefer the carbon, for the 009 definitely the kgst. The conventional kgsshv is a little behind I believe, but also more suitable to the 007 than the 009. From a perspective of build complexity, build beauty and aesthetics the carbon rules them all. The kgst is a rather simple build but compared to that is superb. The carbon with separate GRLV, offboard sinks is a different beast.
  3. Finally the holy triple with the frontplate of the carbon
  4. Well done. Happy for you that everything worked out in the end.
  5. The cascode current source can be set with an LV source. Connect positive voltage to B+ terminal of the amp board. Connect negative voltage to the end of the 100ohm resistor adjacent to the DN2540 away from the heatsink. Measure voltage between the testpoints. Adjust until measurement is 1V for 20mA. (Calculation is 50ohms / 0.02A = 1V).
  6. Thanks that is a very interesting fact to know. Do you have a dust free clean room to do your work or how do you prevent dust from entering the drivers?
  7. Just out of curiosity. I know you build your own headphones, but what do you do with stax headphones with an imbalance?
  8. Wonderful build. What are the red pads under the caps?
  9. I have mine repaired and back up and running. Again I am impressed of its sound compared to the conventional kgsshv.
  10. Looks like the voltage on the psu +400 drops to 60 when I put on the amp board. I will have to test if the same happens with the other amp board. Will do it tomorrow. Too tired to work on HV.
  11. I am in the process of repairing by carbon. I now have the problem, that the offset seems to be stuck at -60V and I cannot adjust it in either direction. I have checked the current sources and they work fine. Where would you start looking? Of course the servo jumper is not connected.
  12. Red: soldering pad Green: Traces Blue: Suggestion for kapton tape, although depicted otherwise, I would not put it over the red pad. Just over the green trace. Yellow arrows: Metal of the terminalblock coming very close to the green trace. FYI: I used the terminal without the additional test point, but the crucial construction point is identical to the blue prints below. I think the problem was that the solder/flux ran along the bent pin of the terminal block coming very close to the green trace. I think one or two layers of kapton should work because it slightly lifts the terminal block form the board and provides addition insulation between the bend pin and the trace. If place correctly, I think its very unlikely that either solder or flux would go under the kapton tape.
  13. Ok I agree that if you don't have flux under the terminal block, it will probably not be an issue. Nevertheless, terminal blocks take a bit more solder to fill the holes compared to other components. To conclude: I think the boards are fine to use, as long as you are very careful about the soldering of the blocks. Furthermore, the ORIENTATION of the terminal block is curcial for the problem to appear. If you mount on the reverse side, there will be no problem. If you mount on the regular side, it may also matter where the openings of the terminal blocks point to (although there are traces running on both sides of the terminal blocks). In my project, the holes were pointing to the c2ms. One could also just put some insulating material over both traces, be it kapton tape or something else that is non conductive.
  14. those are the boards from the last group buy. i dont think these are bad quality.
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