sorenb
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Posts posted by sorenb
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@MLA can you please add a column to the sheet for shaft length? I'd like additional length as well
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1 minute ago, joehpj said:
It's 10V not sth like 5v version. Switched Lt1021, nothing changed. LT1021, 10M90s, DN2540 already switched. Still the same. Voltage dropping speed became a little bit slower, but it's still not working.
Can you please try to clean the joints in the psu-amp with some wick and re-solder those not using too much solder?
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6 hours ago, joehpj said:
I am sure it was marked LT1021-10 on the chip
meaning?
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3 minutes ago, Arthrimus said:
I'm no expert, but this doesn't look right to me.
Could those transposed capacitors have anything to do with it?
they are in parallel ... but it does call for a better picture of the entire board
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32 minutes ago, Thai Tao said:
May be i'm the only one who is not pleased with the Dynalo MK2?
I have heard the original dynalo long time ago for brief time and it give me very strong impression, it sound very good. Then i decided to build the susy Dynalo but it doesn't sound good at all, i don't have totl head amp, just some entry level like Cayin C5, O2, Project Polaris and Schiit Vali and my Susy Dynalo doesn't sound better than any of these. Until today, finally i have borrowed the original dynalo and it just sound clearly better then my susy: it sound clearer, detail pickup is easier, better soundstage depth, everything sound more real! And this dynalo even using cheap transformer ( i can get it for less then 5$), the regulator is just basic 7815/7915. My build is pretty normal, the pzta56/06 and that340 is ordered from mouser, dale, vishay,bc resistor, panasonic fc , kemet mmk5 rail decoupling capacitor got from local store, the krell clone power supply board is a kit from ebay seller. My susy measure fine, 0.27V across 22ohm resistor, <5mv output offset, just can't understand how it sound like this
Have you checked that you didn't mixup the PNP/NPN's?
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Heads-up.
I assume regular mail (no tracking, no sign-off). Please let me know ASAP if you want other option at [email protected] (remember your head_case ID) -
19 minutes ago, joehpj said:
No, it's unloaded.
you might poke around the amplifier then ... check the ksc5026 ...too much solder can hide a bad joint
Do you have 10V on each side? (base of both ksc5026) ....check the two 390k resistors and the .047uF cap
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10 minutes ago, joehpj said:
I tested +400V GRHV today and found it was not working. It outputs 403V immediately when powered up, and quickly dropped to about 200V after 5 seconds. It will continuously drop and won't stop. Where should I begin to check with? -400V with same batch of parts work perfectly(-403V)
Remove the load from the PSU, and start from there ... sounds like the current limiter kicks in
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11 hours ago, luvdunhill said:
Interested, but last time I lived in Texas, K&L wouldn't ship here :/
when did you move?
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Did a short run of isolations tests on the pcbs I have at hand (Carbon v5,v6, circlotron driver board) , they all seems to do +1kV fine (including one from Spritzer, in all fairness)
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7 minutes ago, spritzer said:
Only an idiot would draw those conclusions and how do you know they are better quality? I take it you have them do an insulation test on them?
Oh, you actually tested the Group Buy boards and didn't tell the result? at least the pads don't fall off the group buy boards ...
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1 hour ago, spritzer said:
As Soren states, my boards are very different as I never route this close to the connectors. The ground plane has a set clearance so that is never an issue once that is set correctly.
One thing does spring to mind and that is the quality of the boards. PCB's are not created equal and what is fine for LV stuff can fail at HV. Just look at the lil'knight boards from back in the day. Utter garbage and a source of a lot of headaches.
In other words Kevin doesn't know how to layout a board? The quality of PCBNet boards a way better in comparison to the boards I got from you anyways..
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As I respect the findings of Insanity, I took my Carbon apart. It is different from most here, as I have used boards from Spritzer that features a ground plane (like the board from the GB Carbon V7). The ground plane should just make things even worse.
Anyways, good news is that I found NOTHING, nothing at all ...I have had this amp running almost 24x7 for about a year so I guess any error should have occured anyways..What I noticed is that Insanity hasn't really been shy with solder, I on the other hand tend to be somewhat cheap (in general). I suppose that a really heated leg of a terminal block and generous on the solder would 'grow' the leg on the opposite side and thus might damage the isolation ...as this is what I suspect has happen from seeing the latest picture
As more isolated terminal blocks might be a good idea, it might not have prevented this in the first place ...
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37 minutes ago, insanity said:
There was no short, but it looked like it would have failed as well within some time.
How did it look? did you by any chance take a photo?
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On 8/25/2016 at 10:29 PM, Hippyskygod said:
Thanks Soren ? Let me know how to pay and when you need it.
Send me your shipping address on (also paypal, the amount can be found in the sheet)
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10 hours ago, Hippyskygod said:
Cheers! Ok I tried to add 2 amp boards and a left and right skinny PSU to the spreadsheet at the start of this thread. Computer says no. Can someone please add these for me and I can pay for them by PayPal or transfer directly. Thanks so much for your help. I'm really looking forward to building this up. I'm using a Pono player which sounds really good, but much better through the balanced output mode.
added.
I guess the Group Buy should have been kept open for a few weeks more. Anyways, called the manufactor and got more amps board made, as a second round, thus the shipping will be delay. -
17 hours ago, astrostar59 said:
SO I am now forgetting all this magazine con trickster stuff and staying on here or other forums and then talking to folk direct. Best possible way to know and to align with ones tastes I guess, is get to hear this stuff. But this hobby has got very niche and not is not always possible.
I'm affraid you're making the wrong conclusion here buddy!
why keep your findings to yourself? why not contact Mr. Colloms and explain your findings? truely, he will be nothing but interested in fine tuning his rating system.
Talking to a few people on the forums won't change much. Probably better to forget all about this forum stuff and focus on the magazines rather - think of how many people reading those, being misinformed, mislead and so forth ...you're actually in a position to help the magazines and lead the way ... -
On 8/23/2016 at 7:42 PM, jose said:
12$/ea?
if I can manage to get same quote as previous buy /ea
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As several people have asked for the PSU boards, and some whether caps are available lets probe the interest.
Group Buy moving ahead - collecting payments, and then ordering.
Please bear in mind that lead time is 12 weeks ...edit: added: "Group Buy moving ahead - collecting payments, and then ordering.", and price confirmation.
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Was recently asked about the same, someone had measured:
For the 220V input, R=6.2ohm. For the 16-0-16V output, R=0.8+0.8ohm. However, for the 330V output, R=45ohm!
And asked whether it was too high, the ToroIDY I had at hand measured:
For the 220V input, R=14ohm. For the 16-0-16V output, R=(4+4) and 93ohm for 390V windings.
Have you measured the voltages from the transformer unloaded?
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16 minutes ago, Dave R said:
Because with some songs in my collection they sound much better with the 007 ( the most recent 007 that is ) than the 009. ( both Stax driven by the BHSE )
Also with the headband I did for my 009's, to me it not only makes the 009's very nice looking Earspeakers, but I find it makes them a lot more comfortable than the 007's.
Maybe you can persuade Chinsetta to make a wooden housing that fits the 007 drivers, 009pads and your headband of choise?
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Just now, chinsettawong said:
Sorry, I don't know how to use a scope. Anyway, I learned about the leaky resistors from reading this thread. I then changed all my PRP resisters in the batteries to a local brand resistors and the problem was fixed.
No prob. I've read the same. But changing resistors does include a bit of soldering, could be interesting if someone hving the problem would run through the batteries with some wick and re-solder before attempting to replace the resistors ...
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do you see the noise on a scope?
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12 minutes ago, chinsettawong said:
In my case, it's the problem of leaky resisters.
How does one knows it is "leaky"?
KGSSHV Carbon Build Thread
in Do It Yourself
Posted
No. If there are any shorts I expect you to have found those already? I suspect bad joints rather ...too much solder can hide a bad joint ...I would clean up the the joints and re-solder those before beginning to replace parts ...