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Posts posted by sorenb
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12 hours ago, Whitigir said:
I thought I only need Low voltage to be able to adjust the current, offset, and balances trims ?
You can trim the CSS's using only LV and a DMM in mA mode (assuming AMP board is not connected to anything):
Connect LV+ -> AMP HV+
Connect LV- -> DMM (Common)
Connect DMM.(+) -> the probe
put the probe to the tail of the CSS (the Drain of the Sics (middle leg))
Now you'll have the CSS current reading directly on the meter, and the CSS can be trimmed to what ever current < 27mA you have sinks for
(one might shoot a mA lower as the current grows a bit at higher voltage and heat).Trimming the output stage tail resistor to get the amp in balance and DC balance requires all voltages
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2 hours ago, Whitigir said:
Hm, low voltage is working. However the amp board has very weak LED and test point doesn't measure to anything. Anyone has any idea ?
You need all the voltages to work before doing any further trouble shooting
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I guess you mean totals row? should be ok now
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17 hours ago, Skooby said:
..we need a general thread on physics.
more like a psychiatrist and pharmacist it seems
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all is in transit by now. Please let me know when stuff arrives.
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Caps arrived - shipping tomorrow friday
Please keep yourself updated in rgrds to shipping costs hereAs usual, I'll use cheapest shipping option available; if someone wants tracking/insurance they need to explicit ask for it.
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Just now, Whitigir said:
That is awesome, so I can directly connecting the Pot without the miniboard ! Thanks for confirming
might be stretching it a bit ... the two 1Meg + trim is really only needed if you care about mV accuracy ...you can omit those
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2 minutes ago, kevin gilmore said:
not sure where the 750 ohm came from
15V
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Caps has been shipped from the Über country ... I expect them to land first thing next week ... thanks for your patience
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59 minutes ago, nopants said:
the board cost will be minuscule compared to the rest right?
I guess gwrskien has a point as some fab houses do charge extra going for more oz ... however, in rgrds to PCBNet it doesn't really make much difference.
For re-work abuse 2oz is usually fine - 1oz typically cannot handle much abuse .
@nopants in comparison to how much green we are speding on components, chassis and so forth, I agree ...doesn't really matter much -
any chance for some quotes in the sheet?
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8 hours ago, DefQon said:
Can we still use the 1968's in place for the CCS without any board modifications? I have a decent amount of 1968's with me.
no room for it ... if you want a better CCS you might do a T2-Style on a separat board
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as far as I remember I use 12V+5V back2back 1W's ...probably not critical
22awg is probably plentyFor testing you can:
Power up: bring up the drivers - wait until output settles - bring up the output stage
Power down: bring down the output stage - wait until the HV900 < 200V - power off the drivers
That works for me.Keeping the HV900 < 200V you can investigate the troubling behavior, having meters on the current limiter resistors of output stage and HV900s
As far as I understand from Kevin he hasn't had problems in the lab, but he used some film on ceramic resistors at 10W's for current limiter.
The DigiKey you found is 100W/700V rated and will most likely not break down. -
On 2/13/2017 at 2:24 AM, JoaMat said:
Just switching to 100 watts resistors will that protect us from exploding output board and associated PSUs?
I would assume that having some more robust 120ohm's will easen things quite a bit, as it will take a considerably amount of time before a pair of those break down, and at that time the current limiter from the HV900 should have kicked in and the situation being under control until the driver output has settled
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15 minutes ago, kevin gilmore said:
they are wirewound, not sure how much inductance that is going to add, or whether its going to cause any trouble.
I would probably use these
two of those in series to get to 1kV for the 120ohms ...well only 100ohms are available ...so four it is
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On 2/9/2017 at 6:24 PM, Tinkerer said:
How would you fix this? Bigger resistor? Two stage startup? But for me the outputs blew after around three to five seconds. It wasn't immediately at startup.
A Resistor capable of withstanding more current briefly. A more bold and faster transistor in comparison to the tiny 1-watt BC-thing
As I have stated on page 3, powering up the driver and let it settles before dialing in the output bridge will bring the Albatross up in the Air; landing is likewise a bit delicate, and turning off the HV900's before the drivers works.
I suspect that the 120ohm's also needs to be of a more bold character to prevent this thing for going boom - maybe 100W bolded to the heatsink. -
43 minutes ago, Tinkerer said:
Somebody correct me if I'm wrong but I think you need the opto input from the Output V1.
you can tap it off the drains of the SiC's at the driver board using some resistors.
20V offset will whack the bridge out of balance and raise the current flowing.
The zeners at the gates provides some protection in that regard, but I suspect that those are slower in comparison to the SiC's and that is the culprit.
I suspect the HV900 current limiter isn't robust enough for being literally 'shorted' for a very brief moment when the driver at power up/down swing to B+- 1
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9 hours ago, kevin gilmore said:
lm49830 is a chip amp
do you mean opa1632 and its clones, all of which require huge amounts of feedback and have all sorts of common mode dc issues
didn't you use lm49830 for the blackhole buffer?
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how does this compare to the 49830? (I know it's obsolete, but still)
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1 hour ago, gwrskien said:
Hello,
is there any news on delivery times?
delivery to me week 06, will ship immediately hereafter.
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4 hours ago, mtoc said:
Hello, how to use this software to view Kevin's zip gerb files?
Haven't tried the software Congo5 points to; I use the free GerberLogix that directly supports zip'ed gerbers (even drag-n-drop). Haven't tried all gerbers from Kevin, but a fair amount, and it seems to work fine.
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6 hours ago, mypasswordis said:
If you read enough HC posts you would know that once you go Stax you never go bax, unless you are Fang Bian. No pesky boxed dynamic woofer to get in the way of the electrostatic goodness, either.
Pars isn't going to be happy about your spelling of Parsifal.
U can go Bax with Stax: Tintagel sounds good and, even the sick Tristan is quoted herein
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Received in good shape - nicely packed.
Thanks for all your efforts doing this, highly appreciated./S
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14 hours ago, MLA said:
My bad! I was under the impression everybody ordered boards and never double checked once I got the pots. I see now that of the non-US pot buyers, neither you nor UFN ordered boards. I'll ship to you guys tomorrow.
Perfectly fine. I was worried that the package had been sent and gone missing, thats all.
GRLV split and combined, and any other boards Group Buy
in Do It Yourself
Posted
Baseboard seems to come in an edition including buffer and servo ...might be worth postponing that part of the group buy