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Posts posted by luvdunhill
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Been working to overhaul a trailer
redid the bearings
cut off the old bunks
used POR-15 for three coats directly on the rust
then top coated two coats of OSHA blue
re-did all the wiring and lights to get it legal, finally got inspection and the vin number assigned (a three month process, involving appraisal, inspection, weight certificate, surety bond, tons of paperwork and waiting in lines…)
Now I am on to working on the front mast cradle again and trying to build in a winch to help with the mast raising process. Had a trial run over the weekend and my trig was off (angles are hard) and line was too short. Rats!
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Looks great! So are the support posts? needed to stabilize the building overhang while the extension is being built, or were they sort of an emergency fix?
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I refinished the top of this Tice Original
the original finish hated HD800 headband material - in fact it destroyed multiple pairs and I had to really sand deep to get the gunk off, GooGone failed me. The new finish hopefully will fair better, it’s cooler in color now except for right on the edges where I couldn’t get all the finish off. Time to put this back into use!
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On 8/17/2021 at 8:29 AM, swt61 said:
Brent just looks at boobies and drools.
You would think someone in Mensa would be able to keep abreast of the situation better than that.
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7 hours ago, kevin gilmore said:
And it was a quad balanced pot wired as unbalanced.
Maybe they chose the best two sections out of four!
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No integrated ash tray? I presume that’s what the test item was?
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Go Nate!
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Awesome! I have been working on building a trailer. Lots of fun, welding, grinding (but not so much fun painting - weather isn’t helping) and getting close to my deadline on Wed with the police to get an inspection and a VIN number for it.
Then I need to get the mast cradle built. It’s going to look something like this but perhaps with a u-shaped liner out of hdpe plastic. Any other ideas?
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Some super cool engineering going on here
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27 minutes ago, naamanf said:
Using Protect with G4 Cameras?
Yeah, starting to get a feel for how much storage I would reasonably need for 4K or if it’s even worth it. Just using the Cloud Key thingy with 1TB for now.
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6 hours ago, swt61 said:
Wow!
I think it’s a nice clean install as well!
On 7/18/2021 at 6:59 PM, n_maher said:Depends on the relative hardness of the plastic. With wood I use the same methodology as you and let compressive forces do their thing but have no experience with HDPE.
This stuff is impressively hard. I think the countersink is the way to go..
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That detail was only in the part you had to read. I just looked at the pictures and gave my own opinion - is that what the kids do these days?
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1 hour ago, swt61 said:
Thanks. Fitz isn't looking at this thread, because he wants it to be a surprise when it arrives. I hope he likes it, as he just gave me the dimensions he wanted, and gave me free reign after that.
Nice! Would some small adhesive Teflon tape or something on the bottom help the drawers slide in easier? It seems if you apply the pull or push force on the end of the drawer it might bind up?
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That looks nice!
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14 hours ago, grawk said:
“The ass end of this boat is so big” 😅
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That’s awesome! We ended up getting stuck out on the cat today. We were in a spot of the lake where it was too narrow to tack effectively (the cat just doesn’t have the upwind performance of a monohull) and gain ground upwind.. the wind was about 10 mph straight down the middle with cliffs on each side. We got rescued by a more experienced sailor on a small john boat who said we were doomed to never get back up the lake. Heh.
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3 hours ago, luvdunhill said:
Would the countersink diameter be say 3/8” - just enough to be able to get the bulk of the the square piece in? Yeah, I just need probably 4 or 5 holes.
At that point probably just best to use a hex head bolt and counter sink it…
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47 minutes ago, n_maher said:
I'd be tempted to drill the main hole the diameter of the threaded section and then try to use a countersink or maybe a forstner bit to enlarge a shallow portion to accept the square portion of the neck. The HDPE is probably hard enough that you don't want to assume much engagement between the neck and the material or you likely won't get it to sit flush. Some trial and error maybe required but at least it doesn't sound like you have to do this 100 times. If it's possible to do this on a drill press you should have no issue iterating to get the right combo of depth and size.
Would the countersink diameter be say 3/8” - just enough to be able to get the bulk of the the square piece in? Yeah, I just need probably 4 or 5 holes.
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I am working on my sailboat motor attachment and am using some 5/16” carriage bolts in the end of the transom so the heads are flush. The material will be something called Starboard, which is a marine HDPE plastic. It will be two 3/4” sheets put together. I am wondering how much material I need to make sure the square part of the bolts catch in the material? Should I just drill 5/16” or go 3/8”? The square part is .32” * .32” so the long diagonal of the square is .45”.
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Here are the feet - there isn’t enough travel in them I think. I probably need another solution than the motor mount (male stud, rubber, male stud - which goes into the aluminum line footer and the shiny round circle thing on the top) idea which is stock for these VPI tables. There is a slight gap on purpose to suspect the table so it’s just decoupled via the rubber… the wood is just attached via glue dots to the underside of the plinth to hide the motor mounts.
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Head Case Water Sports
in Miscellaneous
Posted · Edited by luvdunhill
Next time I will start with something with a vin number though yeah, it was fun to restore - in fact I am working on another one now!
I was told by passerbys that I never looked as cool as I when I was grinding metal off or welding. I thinks that’s a complement?