Beefy
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Posts posted by Beefy
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13 minutes ago, penmarker said:
We can weaponise it and make people think god is speaking directly to them.
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2 hours ago, n_maher said:
Homemade brioche-style French toast on a cold (12F) winter morning with half the house still in quarantine.
Yuuuuuum. I do something like that but encrusted with nuts. Basically just a sprinkle some sliced natural almonds on the 'wet' side after it goes in the pan, and smoosh it a little to get a little egg wash on the almonds. Flip it carefully, the almonds stick to the bread as it cooks and get all toasty.
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No snow forecast here, but is -28°C (-18F) outside right now. Fuck this shit.
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2 hours ago, Knuckledragger said:
Thanks for the birthday wishes. I spent my actual birthday ...being sick.
The means I might actually be back on the air before the collapse of modern civilization.
Sorry to hear you've been sick, man!
Your last comment there reminds me of a little something I found funny and depressing: https://www.twitter.com/_tomcashman/status/1433289228830449668
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1 hour ago, Kerry said:
It's been a while since I looked at this, but I'm pretty sure there are just parameters you can set. There should be some comments in the code for SPI vs I2C and you should set the version down to 1.0 or something like that.
I don't have time now to really jump in deep to this, but good luck
Luck is usually all I've got going for me! But I think I have worked it out. I can get a successful build with the all-in-one code in your post from 2017/3/12 using Arduino IDE 1.8.19. My only concern is some very unpleasant turn on/off behaviour. My relays all seem to mute on power down, but then first volume movement on power up temporarily opens full signal volume before settling down. I suspect this is something on the volume board themselves, rather than the software issue.
In any case, I have it set up with:
10k linear pot connected to A1, 5V and GND
Within VolumeController:
Line 101 and 102 both commented out; doesn't change anything, but keeps the program smaller.
Line 127, dattnActive = dattnv1 to set it to the V1 board. Not even sure this is necessary, but it works.
Line 147 myPot.setMinMax(0, 255); needed to allow 255 steps for maximum volume
Within DATTN.cpp
Line 105, vSet = 255 - v; needed to allow 255 steps for maximum volume
Within font.h:
Line 26 "unsigned char *_data[];" this is the only line that really stops it building, and can just be commented out.
Within rotarypot.cpp, some parameters need to be tweaked to give faster volume control. Otherwise, small volume changes take an excruciatingly long time with very gentle pot movements. Zero idle relay chatter with these aggressive settings, surprisingly enough. Currently I have changed:
Line 17 maxValue = 255
Line 21 potChangeThreashold = 1
Line 22 potLockThreashold = 5
Now, I just need to test balanced configuration. Seems to be just a change on line 126, from false to true:
dattnV1 = new DATTN(1.0, true);
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On 8/16/2011 at 11:45 PM, Kerry said:
Here's the code I used for the rotary encoder and the Uno board....
On 8/24/2011 at 2:41 PM, stv1756 said:Here is code to control two attenuators (i.e. balanced) with a potentiometer. Wire pot pins 1 and 3 to 5v and ground, and the wiper to A0 (analog input 0). Should work for a single board as well. For balanced configuration jumper id pins 1 and 2 of the second board (to change the address). Based on the code previously posted by Kerry....
On 3/19/2017 at 4:40 PM, Kerry said:Here's the code. Just rename the PDF to Zip and expand it into a folder under your .../Documents/Arduino directory....
Blast from the past! After 10 years, I finally managed to build two v1.0 of these boards. A couple of questions, if anybody is still familiar with the project....
I have used the original code from @Kerry the get the relays clacking away with an encoder and Arduino Uno, I just needed to replace the deprecated wire.send with wire.write. But I really want to use a potentiometer. The code from @stv1756 won't build (incompatible types in assignment of 'int' to 'int [12]'), and it seems like Kerry's 'all in one' code is more advanced - but I'm not nearly clever enough to work out how to configure it for the v1.0 boards.
I can work out how to disable the OLED (comment out "active OLED = .... lines), but I'm still throwing compile errors (flexible array member 'Font::_data' not at end of 'class Font') which suggests it is still trying to include a display, and I'm obviously missing several configuration options.
Anybody got any hints, or known-good code that works with v1.0 and a potentiometer?
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1 hour ago, Pars said:
For the case, the anodizing will isolate each panel from one another. Many people use a bit of sandpaper or abrasive to clear the anodizing in a small area in between panels, and where the PE ground is connected from the IEC terminal.
As for the PSU ground, I would not connect it to the chassis directly, but use a ground loop breaker (see
).
For the case, once you are satisfied, I would check with an ohmmeter to make sure you have continuity.
I like using internal tooth lock washers for the grounding points. The teeth cut through the anodising and paint, and prevent the screws from loosening.
Also, I use more than one chassis grounding point (usually at the connection between the side and base plates), just to be absolutely sure.
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Very sad news. I didn't know Steve very well, but he was such a valuable contributor for so many years.
Godspeed, Steve.
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26 minutes ago, Pars said:
One more stupid question regarding vandal switches. The eSwitch ones I am looking at have 3V LEDs. None of the PSUs in the equipment have anything near this (+/-30V in one, +45V in the other). Do you just use a series dropping resistor, voltage divider, or what to accommodate these? I'm guessing trying to change out the LED(s) in one of these switches would probably be a good time if you fried it
Series dropping resistor. I used a few hundred ohms on a 5V power supply, about 7k ohms on a 27V power supply.
The internal resistor value and LED Vf aren't specified, so there was a tiny bit of trial and error to get the value exactly right, but I managed to get pretty close to 3mA on the two different power supplies with spare parts.
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7 hours ago, Pars said:
For these, if machining a front panel with a 1-1.5mm recess for the outer bezel, would you have the cavity cut at the datasheet size (22 or 25 mm), or would you add a bit to this dimension? The eSwitch datasheets show a tolerance for the overall body, but not for the bezel.
Ah, so you want the entire bezel to sit flush? That could look quite interesting. Just note that the way the ULV7 switches slope inwards around the edge, you might actually have a gap. I think you'd only need a 0.5 mm recess on the entire 2.0 mm that it normally stands proud of panel to get a meld-into-the-panel effect.
In any case, I just measured the two 25 mm switches installed in the gear on my desk as best as I could with calipers. Came up with 24.92 ± 0.2 mm over several measurements.
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On 11/22/2021 at 2:15 PM, Hopstretch said:
Oldie but goodie.
Damn right. One of my all time faves, and that's a great version.
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3 minutes ago, swt61 said:
Marc, what's the piece of gear in the background, with the Red LED bars?
Looks like 000 on a numerical display...?
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3 hours ago, Pars said:
The Gerbers for Kevin's attenuator board are still available. I believe Kerry had worked up a controller board with rotary attenuator for that as well, including the software?
One control that looks good and has good reviews is the Muses72320. I'm currently (very slowly) building a UGS Muse preamp based on the Pass UGS and using the NJR MUSES72320V-TE2-ND IC. There is a project on diyaudio using these chips and apparently can handle up to an 8 channel control. https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/swap-meet/322983-muses-volume.html. The chips seem to be in short supply right now (both Digikey and Mouser carry them, both out of stock).
That Muses project looks really neat. But yeah, availability of the chips is quite bad, and it will almost certainly preclude it as a pre-Xmas project. Will definitely keep an eye on it for new builds though, so thanks!
I'm sure the Kevin/Kerry option is probably the best, but making my own boards is the difference between a weekend soldering/wiring project, and learning an entire new skill. Unfortunately, I think my brain is full.
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So I'm curious what the current SOTA is with respect to non-potentiometer volume control for a balanced DIY amp.
Context: I'm working through an repair/refine/replace blitz of all my DIY gear. My Exstata - which if you can believe it is still kicking after 10+ years - has one of the dual PGA2320 volume controls that Marc developed way back then. It works great, and was incredible $$$ value, but it seems ripe picking for a small update project.
I see the TPA Joshua Tree is still kicking, still dead easy to implement, still has limitations of variable input impedance and always-on relays. AMB's δ1 uses latching relays and has constant impedance, but having to do a full Arduino control board build seems a but nutty for just an attenuator. And Kevin was busy a few years back with something that seemed technically excellent, but getting PCB's and programming done is probably way beyond my skillset and the time I am willing to invest.
Thoughts or suggestions? Thanks!
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52 minutes ago, kevin gilmore said:
here are the current google share links
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1r3g2TAtBUaBdiMorTWX7yYgeJ7maQbYW?usp=sharing
someone please verify that both links are viewable.
Both links are viewable. Not found is the skill for me to do anything with it.
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16 hours ago, n_maher said:
Work is affording me the opportunity to try this:
Lot's to both like and maybe not like about it but given that it isn't my financial risk I figured why not? It had to be a Win-based machine and for mobile presentations and marking up submittals/schedules/etc. it could be a game changer.
Awesome! Like @Kerry I'd love to hear your thoughts. I have a ThinkPad X1 Yoga and work/home docking stations, and find it is just about perfect for mixed desktop/portable/tablet usage. The Studio's fold down screen seems like it would be even better than the fold-back Yoga.
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6 minutes ago, morphsci said:
I think it was an autocorrect issue.
Of course *facepalm*
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5 minutes ago, shellylh said:
I don't know if you are joking... so "Mytek Brooklyn+"
Doug might have been confused about the 'muted' part, I certainly was. Is that a reference to the sound signature?
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6 hours ago, bbest said:
As I heard Soekris good DAC but not perfect.
No, no, I assure you that it is perfect in every conceivable way. The sound, the design, the way it makes my bowel movements smell like fresh cinnamon rolls.
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Just now, Craig Sawyers said:
Bloody hell. I'd have ended in the ditch.
Some people are panic dancers, but thankfully I'm a panic freezer.
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4 minutes ago, Craig Sawyers said:
Mind you he found one in his UTE cab one morning, and even he did not want one along for the ride. So he ejected it with a leafblower.
Ha! My car experience is a little different; one dropped into my lap at highway speeds, when I dropped my sun visor.
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5 hours ago, Craig Sawyers said:
But the US pales into insignificance with poisonous things as compared with Australia, where our daughter lives. The working assumption is that any insect or snake is out to kill you, and many things in the sea too. The worst thing seems to be the Sydney Funnelweb spider. Not only is it venomous in the extreme, huge and ugly, it is also aggressive. If it takes a dislike to you the darned thing can jump 18 inches with fangs bared. Google it.
The fun part about Australia is that the poisonous critters aren't even the most scary. The huntsman spider is a huge but generally chill dude/dame that will normally just eat other crawling bugs. But if you surprise or deliberately annoy that thing, the fucker will chase you across the room and out of the house. It won't kill you with venom, but that bite hurts.
And the way they hide..... You don't want to know the places I've found huntsman spiders. The classic example is 'clock spider'.....
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Thanks for the kind words and smileys. I think my favorite graffiti says it well.....
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4 minutes ago, n_maher said:
Looks fantastic to my eye!
I still have a copy of your M3 BOM on my computer. This all would have been much harder without your efforts, so thanks for everything you've done over the years!
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WiMP comes to the UK/US as Tidal
in Music
Posted · Edited by Beefy
Jebus. How hard would it be for them to just start serving up 16/44.1 FLAC in addition to 16/44.1 MP3? Maybe an exclusive KS/WASAPI mode in the desktop app. That's all it would take for me to be a very happy camper.