lupoal

ok, thks

Hi, were could I find deteiled procedure to do that? I have the 300 Limited, does this mod apply to my version too? (sorry for the small OT 😬)

thank you what I don't understand is how the playback of the content is not affected by time-varying offsets and a balance...that is,I understand that if there is an offset, or a balance, shifted by say 2V and these are constant and I have a modulated signal around there the 2V is of little importance...but the fact that these vary continuously over time puzzles me, probably because I don't understand how the signal is sent and reproduced anyway, it sounds... it sounds good (with ceramic cones under the amp it also sounds quite a bit better) and so I try not to think about it

ok, I've found something... https://www.head-fi.org/threads/help-any-diy-solutions-for-a-broken-headband-of-stax-sr-l300.898523/

Hi, I recently bought an L300LE, and unfortunately the mechanical part of the headset is rather poor...particularly the plastic frame and the headband adjustment, the former desitinated to break with use because it was too fragile, the latter simply does not hold the set position due to the weight of the headset...I had to put bluetack on it to lock the two slides in place the aluminum frame of the 700 is much better.. but the cost is insane! simply crazy! has anyone made anything DIY to replace these shoddy parts?

no, cones/tips can make a positive or negative contribution even with all-solid-state electronics, it is something I have encountered on several occasions... for example in a dual linear power supply I built the use of rubber cones, instead of the feet supplied with the cabinet, led to significant sonic improvements (I know, it sounds crazy. .. but unfortunately it really is)... in general I have found that if in the electronics (same cabinet) the transformer is itegrated as well then mechanically coupling with the board (cones, spikes, etc.) can lead to benefits... if there is no transformer then it may be advantageous to decouple (rubber feet, etc.) or leave unchanged it is not at all true that 6SN7s are microphonic tubes, if anything the opposite...a friend of mine, a hi-fi manufacturer was telling me that some tubes, small, of his use tend to be microphonic and, because of this,force him to make long selections...for this reason he is now switching on new designs to 6SN7s which give no such problems. I also use 6SN7s in an OTL amplifier and there are no problems, mostly NOS tubes...some even from 1952 (unfortunately not GTB, too bad because fabulous)...I would avoid Russian Tung-sols, I have not heard good things about them (mine are American NOS ones), I would go to Sylvania GTBs which are readily available at a very reasonable cost the computer power cord leave it to the computer, it is only good for that...use a shielded cable that is also good for the electronics around there reducing electrical pollution, don't listen to those who say nothing changes, the world is full of uncurious and very rigid people... if you want to play try making this cable here --> https://www.tnt-audio.com/clinica/ttse.html i use L300 Limited (pad from L700)

... I normally use https://frank.pocnet.net/sheets66.html

Hi plaurids, thks for super-detailed reply ok.. probably now I got it... this R20 value change make sense togheter with CCS mod, without not (confirmed?)... I thought was useful to have better control/stability when setting balance/offset (in any case if the resistor is on the bottom side the add another in parallel is very simple soldering it in place) differences between 6SN7GTB (Tung-sol at the moment, those quite tall) and 6CG7? Well, at the begining I used RCA Clear Top and GE, both 6CG7... RCA are considered super-top but I found them too cold, GE are better but... then I tried Sylvania GTB, better but I have always found Sylvania good but nothing special... then the Tung-sol, those always gave me the feeling to be too much clear, with not enough body in low end... and this time was the same until... until I placed below the energizer three ceramic cone (those used in industry to clean metals), one in the front and two in the back, and that changed the sound quite noticeably, for the better of course (that transformer screwed onto the pcb will make sense from an industriele and cost point of view...but it's not a good job, imho) I also changed the fuse holder by putting a tinned copper one size 5x20 and fitted a Gustard fuse... another positive change in sound (note that I was quite skeptical about the fuses)(require burn-in and has a dircetion of flow... yes I know, I didn't believe it either) the power cable made with Supra Low-rad 2m long, I didn't notice any changes from another industrial shielded cable I was using previously, I'm just more comfortable about the noise shielding (the DIY cable with triple choice for shield connection) any experience with 6CG7 from Mazda or Matsushita?

hi, also here a 006tS...I am reading this discussion and I have a couple of questions 1) I read elsewhere about a mod by changing the two rectifier bridges with four ultra-fast diodes (each clearly)...a marked audio improvement is claimed...does this make sense? has anyone tried it? 2) about the R20 resistor, I am using 6SN7GTB tubes... do I understand correctly that it would be useful to reduce it from 2.2k to 1k? is that enough or did I miss something and would there be something else to modify? if that is enough... why not simply put in parallel to the existing one another identical one using two small alligator clips to thus have the possibility to go back to 6cg7 without taking the soldering iron?

Hi, I'm asking for help because I can't understand ... so i installed in my 006 two tung-sol 6sn7gtb tubes (American NOS)with about 250 hrs on them (so out burn-in but new), I replaced the adjustment trimmers with multiturns to have more control, I use a ceramic screwdriver, my mains voltage is 220Vac constant, I let the amp warm up for at least an hour (with signal on and volume at about 2) before calibrating, put the volume to zero and select an input with no signal (the 1, which is connected only the 3). .. tester in Vdc...first I adjust the balance or then the offset, then balance again and then offset...then I switch to the other channel now this happens to me - between with and without cover the read value varies sometimes even more than 2V, and it varies all the time...it swings back and forth...especially on balance - even in constant condition, e.g., always without lid, the adjusted voltages never stand still...they constantly fluctuate back and forth...e.g., -0.8 to + 1.4...then it slows down...then it picks up again - from one day and the next I do not find the same values again questions: - am I doing something wrong? should I follow a different procedure? - what is the target value to reach for balance and offset? (I read of people adjusting to 0.25V...but in my experience it is absolutely impossible) - what are the acceptable target values without having to continually intervene with calibration? thank you in advance for your help 🙂

so... remain only the NOS market... but... I have read that in the past, tube manufacturers sometimes used to brand tubes according to market demands ... cases of tubes initially sold as 6SN7 ... then 6SN7GT (which is the same) ... then GTA or GTB, which should be different the question that arises is: so were the 6SN7 tubes already capable of working with higher voltages? ... or are there GTBs around that do not work as specified? (I don't trust chinese specs too)

Hi, I’m going to use 6SN7 in my 006Ts and would like to choose something modern; going through tube specs from Psvane and Linlai it is not clear if their 6SN7 (and CV181… as here they declare only 600mA for filament that is quite strange) can work up to 330V that is the value inside the 006 in their spec (when available) we have Ua (static) … 250V Ua (maximum)…. 450V here is an example … http://www.psvane.com/en/hifiseries/327.html is there anybody that have experience about? are modern tubes suitable for use inside 006 (and similar)? any suggestion about which one should/could be choose? thks 🙂