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High Rollers
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Posts posted by Les_Garten

  1. Hey Folks!  Haven't posted here in a while.


    I was looking at these real close (LS50 Meta and LS50 Wireless II).  Ended up getting the R3s instead with a SVS-3000 sub.  Very nice speakers, have not bought anything not Electrostat in decades.  I'm sure these LS50s sound nice as well.   I've only got about 16 hours of break-in on them presently. They were a bit flat out of the box but started sounding better at 8 hours.  Using them as my computer monitors due to the unexpected death of some JBL4328s

  2. 15 hours ago, n_maher said:

    I think it'd be more likely and would still look good, if you got them laser etched.  You'll probably have to pay an insane amount to get them milled.  The setup and breakdown time for each part is going to be significant and that time is $$.



    There is a local guy who has a Fiber laser that marks surgical instruments and said he would do it, I just thought it would look better with CNC milling.  I had a guy who sold his time on Ebay and he said there's about 3 hours setup/programming involved.  Not sure I have him nailed down or not, so was hoping one of you Gurus had a little CNC setup.


    I suggested to the Malay guy he should offer this on his blocks.

    5 hours ago, swt61 said:

    No, he wants to mill them, not forge them. :P

    Nobody here misses a trick!

    4 hours ago, justin said:

    laser engraving won't be that cheap either. typically, i have paid around $125 setup per artwork. using my own machine, it would probably take me about 2 hours to set up the artwork. there would also only be 1 shot at getting it right

    the cheapest way might actually be to find a hand engraver



    It would probably be worth a shot asking an Engraver how deep they can engrave, but I thought the milling would look better.


    The Internet guy said he would set it up and cut a practice piece.  You're right, it won't be cheap.

    6 hours ago, Dusty Chalk said:

    Not sure we should be helping you with a forgery.

    Not really following you here.


    It's a modification/improvement/bling thing.



    P.S. --  Thanx for the ideas and input guys!

  3. I have some Grado Aluminum headset blocks that I got from the guy in Malaysia.

    I've been trying to find someone who will do a small job like this but have been unsuccessful so far.


    I would like to get R and L milled into them with the square border areound the letters like on the Factory plastic blocks.


    Anybody have any suggestion for someone who would do something like this?

  4. yes, I get that you were hoping someone would do something for you for free or a greatly discounted price.

    No, not at all. I'm willing to pay for the service. The last guy who was doing it that I knew about quit, and the others I had contacted only wanted to do quantity.

    Of course free or greatly discounted is always appreciated, but I never thought that was a remote possibility.

    I was merely trying to leverage the knowledge of the folks here about resources along these lines. Pars has helped me out here and I have a RFQ from that company in.

  5. I would have to check the work policies.  The place I work at is fairly strict.  I could do it myself, but I do not have access to the labs (again, strict, and secret projects, and NDA clearances, etc).  The rework labs are also timed and tracked corporate wide, as well as having a huge backlog to service thousands of employees and hundreds of projects.  It's probably a strange environment.  Smaller companies I worked at were much less so, and nerds can help nerds as long as it didn't impact project schedules.  It's not so easy at my current place of employment, sadly.  Having access to state of the art scopes, and analyzers, as well as all the RF equipment, would be bad ass!


    Good link, checking the prices though, it sounds like the reballing is for the bga component itself.  If it's on a board, it'll likely be over $200 to remove, reball, and reinstall.  It's best to call for a quote, but if it's only $75, I would send my xbox in. :)


    I'm getting my quote together.   Can you get me the pic of your board showing that bad chip?  I may try to get a discount for multiple boards and you may want to throw in with us.

  6. Perfect timing to answer this thread.


    Tin foil on the baking tray large enough to hold the circuit board. Tin foil balls on four corners, pre-heat oven (with fan on if present) at 385'F or 210-220'C for 8-10minutes with the stuff baking inside. This should fix the solder fractures in between chips on the PCB. I've repaired over 30 artefacting and half-arsed graphics card's by following this method which manufacturers use something similar when these things go out the door.


    Avoid hair dryers and heat gun's, a single heated place for too long and you will bork the stuff, an oven is good as it keeps the heat trapped inside circulated and spread throughout not a single heat concentrated heated area.


    Be sure to have plenty of ventilation, board and components should be ROHS complied so no life-threatening toxic chemicals, but yeah.


    Problem is, all the reheat tricks are temporary.  


    You have probably googled reballing/reflowing and seen countless links/videos, etc. of DIY processes? I have a Powermac G5 logic board that has a chip that needs to be reflowed or reballed as well. The problem is finding someone who can do it in a cost-effective manner. I haven't gotten around to approaching someone in one of our engineering labs at work about getting my hands on a BGA rework station that we apparently have. I replaced the logic board with a used one from ebay, and it is working OK.




    I also bought another board for it that will most likely have the same problems in a few years.  Would like to fix my spare "bad" one permanently in the meantime.  The monitor is good enough to want to fix it.


    If you run across somebody that has a rework station, I'd love to hear about it!

  7. LOL!   That's not far off how these are treated for temp fixes.


    The guys with these monitors mask the chip with tin foil, put in a 350 degree oven for 8 minutes.


    Some use a heat gun, some use a candle or cigarette lighter.  Fix sometimes works for a while, sometimes not.  It's short lived at best.


    The real fix is to remove the lead free solder and re ball with lead solder. 

  8. It would be great if they had a chest you could slide them into. Otherwise trying to find something with them stacked would be a pain in the butt. I like the below plastic ones, but with those drawers divided up into thirds.

    Cool thing about that setup is you can make it anything you want, size or shape wise. All snap together. So not easy to make a chest for it. But if you spec out your modules and make your own chest, I think it would be pretty sharp, albeit expensive.

  9. I actually like them quite a bit. I wouldn't wear such a thing, but I find them immensely amusing for some reason.

    I keep waiting for my new ones to show up on their website....waiting.....waiting.....waiting.....

    You look like more of a .40 Caliber girl to me :D

  10. I have chips in my kyocera ceramic knives just from the knife hitting

    pieces of beef or chicken bones. They do break.

    The macor i use (machinable glass ceramic) works great in compression

    mode, but absolutely horrible in the other direction.

    Thanx for that info(Macor) They make some neat looking things out of that stuff.

  11. I've never seen a ceramic knife break, these are harder than steel, not just a regular ceramic used in planes and bowls.

    Do you have any Ceramic knives?

    The insert that comes with them tells all the things you can do to break them. They break easily.

    Knife steel breaks easily as well if it is too hard. The "harder" a knife is, the easier it is to break. I have a knife by Fallkniven made to address these characteristics. It is a laminate blade with a very hard edge laminated over a softer back bone.

    Here's the link for anyone who may be interested.


    So, the reason why my original question. Ceramic screws would seem easy to break from the shearing forces and even the stretch from Torquing. I'm fascinated by them though. Except for the cost, that part is not fascinating, it's shocking!

  12. If they use the same sort of ceramic used in knives it will be much harder than a stainless steel one.

    That's my point though.

    Drop a steel knife on the floor, it may bend. Drop a Ceramic knife, you have a high chance of it breaking.

    You wouldn't want ceramic Head Bolts on your car either.

    I'm just wondering how these tighten up. A lot of metal bolts "hold" be using stretch.

  13. Amazon.com: Ceramic Socket Cap Screw, Slotted Drive, #4-40, 3/4" Length (Pack of 1): Industrial & Scientific

    i really underestimated the price...

    but with no shoulder washer needed you can probably fit #6-32 in most transistor tabs

    I've never touched a ceramic screw before. Are they brittle? Do you end up breaking them with too much torque? They look like you would have to use a torque wrench with them?

    Those are kinda high Dollar items!

  14. finally I could download classics like "I Bark All Goddamn Day For No Reason Because I'm a Beagle. Who the Hell Likes These Dogs?"

    Don't you think you are exaggerating at least a Tiny bit here??

    They don't bark all day...

    They take a little time off to Howl.

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