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bhjazz

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bhjazz last won the day on February 5 2012

bhjazz had the most liked content!

About bhjazz

  • Birthday December 31

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  • Interests
    DIY audio, Java, photography
  • Headphones
    HD-600, PS500e, ATH-ESW9, SE-310, E4S
  • Headphone Amps
    CKKIII, Headamp Pico Dac/amp, Twisted Pear Ventus, MHSS | Prev->Dynahi, Pimeta | Next -> Bijou
  • Sources
    DVP-S9000ES, Audio Alchemy DDS III, Dual CS-431 TT, Jolida FM tuner, Laptop+HiFace
  • Other Audio Gear
    Tekton Design, Pass ACA, Mytek, ASC Tube Traps, Shunyata Hydra 8

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  1. Winner. Got some time to compare the 7 meter version to a 1 meter version of the same cable this weekend. No contest. Low pass filter very much in effect with the longer cable. Even did the maths calculationses on them. With the shorter cable the music breathes better and that extra blanket was removed from my speakers. To make sure I wasn't fooling myself, my wife (the one without the compromised hearing) was brought in to listen while I swapped cables back and forth. While she doesn't speak fluent audiogeek she was able to describe what she was hearing and confirmed (without me leading the witness) that the shorter cables were less obtrusive. I later traded the Cardas Neutral Reference speaker cables for some older Audioquest F18. That worked a treat as well although they are not perfect in the bass response. I think my real lesson here is combining too many neutral components may net a final system with a less natural final presentation. YMMV.
  2. I agree. And am thinking this neutrality is part of my issue. Adding neutral cables to an already neutral system can sometimes mean losing some system synergy. When I moved into my house my audio room was just the speakers, the rack o' gear, records and CDs piled up and a wood kitchen chair. Since then I've added tube traps, 2-person loveseat audio receiving couch, blinds, storage racks, etc. So lots of things to soak up audio and maybe not enough to keep nice clean highs. This might be my real problem. Incidentally, I was looking at how I had set up my Pass ACA monoblocks and realized that I had left the switch in a different position than maybe was intended. I put it back to the balanced mono setting for XLR and was able to gain a little focus. It may sound better now but am trying to ignore the self-inflicted placebo. Time will tell.
  3. Talked to dealer today. He says all he has to go by is a Prime warranty card which reads 3 years. Will call VPI tomorrow. 😐 EDIT: To tie this off, VPI says 3 years. Oh well, I have more options opening up with SOTA now.
  4. Neutral, LOL. Reminds me of a cartoon in some audio mag back in the day. Guy buying speakers and salesman says, "And as a special feature, when you reach age 70 we send out a serviceman to remove the tweeters." It does almost seem this cable pair is out of phase, though. Interesting comment, Nate. Gonna think about that some more. Anyway, did Nate's tests last night, found nothing out of place. Joints good, no crossed wires. They look good. The only thing I noticed was that the shield was connected to the plug on the source ends. I don't think I really need that but read up a bit and world seems divided as far as do or do not do it. Since these are not actual microphones I suppose I don't need it.
  5. Yeah, something is toast. I'll give those tests a try. Thanks, Nate!
  6. I'm not advocating overpriced cables. I've read the audio mags reasoning for Tara Labs and some others and wonder how materials and magic secret build techniques can make something cost so much. On the other hand I have lots of inexpensive cables here and for many reasons, they have little synergy with my system. But I've used this pair of cables in two completely different systems and both times they sound very bland. Something isn't right. Since I never sleep on Sunday nights, this very thing went through my head. I don't think it's the cable length because I have a 1M pair of these and they sound the same. Still, I do wonder if their construction was wrong or if the grounds are wrong or... I think I'll go dig through the Rane site and compare to what I've done.
  7. Nate made me double-check WBT and he is right: no xlr. Thanks for that. Also I pasted in the wrong model number which should have been NC3FXX-B (and the M model) so I know how I threw him off. Sorry! To me it's not amazing claims I need to accept, but my own ears. No ghosts in my system. 😉
  8. I have a pair of DH Labs Pro Studio interconnects. Bought the parts back in...I dunno maybe 2012. I have Neutrik NC4MXX XLR plugs. Just realized the pins are gold plating over brass. The cables are 7 meter since my rack o' gear is to my right and the amps are in between the speakers. In short, I hate these cables. The high end is dry and bland/rolled off. Sometimes if I crank the system up to 11 I can forget their ills. I think they truly like that much power because they sound a bit better. Otherwise, at evening listening levels I still hate them. But try to go find another set that long for under a grand. I could get by with a 5 meter pair. By moving some gear very close to the amps and trying other cables (Cardas Golden Cross, for example) the system breathes again. I can hear life and breath and reverb tails. I ran across a discussion about VH Audio where someone was using VH wire and Switchcraft plugs, then had changed to WBT silver (WBT-0152) and found that the cables finally woke up. Just wondering what the consensus might be for me to try a similar tack (spend the dollars for the WBT ends) or if should just quit trying to make these what they may never be. Thanks!
  9. Heeeeeere's the latest news with Action News correspondent BH. Good Evening. The current price list (as of today) for SOTA packages: eclipse package: $750 total eclipse package: $1100 SOTA motor pod for VPI: $450 (and you still need a motor package) current price for converting VPI motor pod for SOTA BLDC motor: 250 + 50 plate = $300 pulley - if you need the 1.5" pulley - $50 (doesn't seem likely, though) And just to think this one all the way out: std eclipse package with sota motor pod: 750+450 = 1200 ttl eclipse package with sota motor pod: 1100+450 = 1600 std eclipse package with VPI motor pod: 750+300 = 1050 + shipping to/from ttl eclipse package with VPI motor pod: 1100+300 = 1400 + shipping to/from It looks like sending your current VPI motor pod to SOTA for machining is a good deal, especially in light of it being a bit heavier than the SOTA pod. Someone on the VPI forum had done so and had the top plate pretty scratched up, so I think there would be some hand-wringing while waiting. I called VPI and asked about my current noisy motor. Claire tells me, well, the Prime has a 5 year warranty, so you're still covered. However, you'll need to contact your dealer first. If they are unable to help, please call us back. So I called Stereo Unlimited in SD, but it's the owner's cell phone and had to leave a message. Hopefully I'll talk to him at some point about how to coordinate an interstate warranty claim. Fun. (paging mr savitsk: good call - it really is a warranty item.) As for Lyra, ha. Interesting. I spoke with Alasdair at Audioquest. He told me Lyra is at least 6 months behind with new work and repairs. He then suggested that I might have better luck, for the same cost of rebuilding mine, to just trade for a new one; just find a dealer with a large supply then I could reduce my wait time. I was sent a dealer list and found that one is closer to my home than I expected. Cool. I'd be happy to hand them my credit card. We'll see how all of this turns out. Thanks for all the great ideas. My credit card is giving me the evil eye, but frankly I haven't been out to dinner in a year so it should be happy to be out of my wallet.
  10. Right! This cost is in addition to the Eclipse package(s).
  11. I agree. You never know unless you ask. BTW, on the vpiforum I learned SOTA will update a current VPI motor pod to accept the BLDC motor. For around $300 I think. Not sure. Haven't had confirmation from SOTA yet.
  12. I took the motor pod apart and found Model PA, P/N SP4007. Google mentions that this is the equivalent Hurst part number you mentioned. 300 RPM. Thanks! Looks like it is a whopping $98 through Hurst. However, I am wondering if I will be replacing that part again in another two years. I'll toss that around in my head. I really blame the single bearing and wish they had a hotrod version of this motor with top and bottom sealed grade 10 tungsten ball bearings. And flashing lights. And a flamethrower. I like your BLDC motor project. Man, those links to diyaudio.com always end up pointing to threads that are at least 100 or more pages long. Am I right? Lots to learn there for sure. Is the project cost-effective or is it the thrill of the hunt? Thanks a lot, Marc. I really appreciate the info.
  13. Thanks! I'm in for replacing the motor. I suppose all I need is a location where to get them and the model number. I'd like to know more about the motor/controller/tach DIY project. This might be a good route for me as well. What language is the software in?
  14. Okay, Marc: I have not yet hit the buy button. Are you thinking I could just replace the motor myself? Or do you have better plans? Thanks! I've sent email to Audioquest regarding the Delos rebuild but they have not yet responded. Y'know, at what point do we begin mocking companies for not having a business continuity plan for a 1-year-old pandemic?
  15. I'm feelin' Al's pain this week. "Analog can be frustrating." Bought a VPI Prime back in 2017 while on vacation in San Diego (not even as a whoops...I planned the trip that way.) The dealer, Stereo Unlimited, was...ok... to deal with. The sales guy was a boob and the owner was as well. Still, I was hungry for the 'table, so there it was. No dealers near Seattle at that time. FFWD to 2019, I jump on the vpiforum to figure out how to do some general maintenance. There is some 120Hz motor hum and I'm thinking something needs some work. I do the maintenance and never really get rid of the noise, but ignore because hey: tunes! FFWD to the awful holiday season 2020 and I find the noise is worse than I remember. I read up and find that the crap Hurst motors that VPI purchases "sometimes just get noisy", probably due in part by the fact that they are only supported on the top by a single, simple friction bearing. I know the noisy little bitch is out of warranty, but find out the replacement is $800. For what? The joy of doing this again in a few years? Bite me. Ah, but SOTA has somehow now emerged on my radar because they sell an excellent DC motor package, one of which includes the old Roadrunner tachometer. They also can mount said motor in a VPI-friendly-height motor pod for some unknown dollar value. So at least I have options, but they start at $800 and go up from there. Crap. I was supposed to replace some other components this year (plus get my Lyra Delos rebuilt). I guess that's how it goes with audio (especially turntables). Anyway, here are a few links should anyone else be in the same noisy boat. SOTA Eclipse Package SOTA Total Eclipse Package
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