nopants
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Posts posted by nopants
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just add the 4 resistors, if you gave stuffed boards you want to transplant you'd have to open things up anyway right
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hey birgir what's the part name of the black pieces that attach the earpad to the driver? I want to make it easier to swap pads in and out, for experimentation.
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Well, I'm still very happy with my HE-60 and LNS, so I'm not too worried about the new Sennheiser headphones tempting me.
On a different note, can the eXStatA kill a headphone if something goes wrong while the phones are plugged into the amp? I sometimes wonder if I should install the new amp boards in my Hybrid eXStatA to see if it's better than my HEV-70 amp. I've been sitting on the new parts for a few years, ever since the PSU was rebuilt but killed the Rt channel at the same time - it just wasn't worth it. Is it still not worth it, i.e. worse than HEV-70 or SRD-7 Pro via ZDT amp?
FYI - I've already had two sets of amp boards die about 5 yr ago, both sets stuffed by Wiatrob. The new ones were stuffed by a head-fi hobbyist, and nobody we all know.
if they have the kg standard 5.1k resistors on the output it should be fine
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interesting, wish I could swap mine for a black one.
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according to slickdeals this drops to 430 with their code HD700_SHH
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wasn't the he90 shitty by design? this looks to be more of the same with even sillier features built into the paired amp
suffice it to say I'm glad I haven't been holding my breath. this would be a good time for wachara to start selling his clone drivers haha
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the antek should work fine for this at normal voltages
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What is the suggested retail, and why is it 25k more than it should be
it looks like an he90 with a metal frame
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in the meantime, pardon the clickbait title
www.head-fi.org/t/779102/did-sennheiser-just-reveal-the-orpheus-successor
tubes come out of the amp, it's like the aristaeus's assclown brother
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I thought of doing that at one point, seemed more logical than using transformer-output tube amplifiers specifically intended to drive speakers. How do they sound?
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The original sr-omega pads are brown so the black 007 pads pictured don't really match the original aesthetic, that's all. The brown 007 pads are also easier to adapt for use in the omega. It's not something I considered when I placed the order, so I'm feeling a bit more stupid than normal.
Of course brown pads would make it sound less dark as well, making them less edgy and rebellious.
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maybe I should invest in the brown 007 pads to keep the colors coordinated. I think they're stretchier (aka flimsier) than their black counterparts.
If it's possible I'd like to get the 009/507 headband working with these too, might be a little more complicated than swapping pads.
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I've had that problem too the only thing that worked 100% was wearing a grounding strap. happens on some headphones but not others, similar deal with amplifiers
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is that even possible without breaking something
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I tried birgir's suggested 009 mod on the SR-Omega and I'm getting tons of mileage out of it. just shove some foam in the back to increase the angle at which the drivers rest against your ear. Maybe it's the foam in the pads but by default they sit a little too close to your ears, similar to the 009.
This doesn't really help for the 007s, I imagine because the EP007 minimum thickness positions the driver further away despite having a shallower angle
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should probably stick to a board set that will fit into a single chassis
I also believe the recommended chassis was 5U
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Saw this on Schiit's website, made me think of those users who were opting for the SS input stage on their T2s:
http://schiit.com/products/lisst-tubes
I dig the aesthetics
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Should we pay the preliminary amount prior to the shipping quote? I don't have a problem with doing 2 payments but I just wanted to make sure.
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You can post a picture of the inside here and Birgir/anyone here should be able to re-verify
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I'll cough up mine for 1k if you're interested, I never use them. black tangerine
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I have 2 pairs that I thought about putting towards the new vfet follower design by pass- might not end up doing it though. do you need matched devices?
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yep I plugged them into the amplifier boards and I was still getting 20+ v. also checked the ground connections and those seem to be ok I'll try to measure it from the package when I get a chance. In the meantime I hooked up a power one supply for the lv section.
Edit: I got all the voltages to dial in properly, but for some reason all the signal outputs are stuck at +vcc. I can still adjust the balance for some reason.
Maybe this is related to the problem I had with the kgsshv where the LV section might have turned on after the HV section.I wired it to manually switch on the HV after the LV and that didn't work. I wonder why I'm having so much trouble this time around -
thanks for the tips Kerry, I've been doing that- unfortunately the pads still come off sometimes. As of right now I'm seeing -/+ 17 or 18vdc , I measured it at the outputs of the diode bridge. its only the 7915 that has real problems. 7815 is showing the correct voltages
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My jrc 7[8,9]15 were pumping out -/+20 v when I fed them a 24vac transformer which was labelled 18, after replacing them once already. Are these regulators toast? I wanted to double-check before I fuck up the PCB pads from desoldering
i'm on a roll... the kgsshv
in Do It Yourself
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it would still be significantly cheaper to pick up a separate lv transformer that only needs 100ma secondaries