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justin last won the day on June 2

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  • Birthday 01/01/1872

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  1. I hope he has a SawStop for that wood
  2. I think similar to Megatron output, so still a lot. max output on the market wasn't goal, more about the DHT sound. if there's an electrostatic headphone that needs more power, going from one of those amps to the other won't be enough of a difference. you may have 1dB, 2dB max more headroom
  3. It's more power than BHSE, but not by much. There isn't really much point. There are already several competing tube amps that put out less voltage swing than STAX's entry level amps. Pushing the envelope on component specs to achieve another fraction of a dB more output wasn't the goal. as for the price, well over 10k. there is absolutely no way this amp wouldn't be. I could exceed that in bill of materials easily. How much is the MSB, 40k? The Sennheiser HE1 w/ headphone is $59k. The Shangri-la Sr w/ amp is $50k. This will be much, much less than either of those and sound better with SR-X9000 or CRBN.
  4. I have been getting back at this..working up to a limited run of these as the STAX SR-X9000 and Audeze CRBN have made that need to happen. But the chassis is extraordinarily expensive and difficult to produce, so I am working at ways to fix that. Also need to put it on the scale, thought it was 45lb but feels more like 60lb haha. It's really not that big of a footprint (13.5x18), but it makes the BHSE look like a toy. Power consumption is 190-200W depending on tubes, with 90-100W of that being heaters. The bottom of the amp is ice cold and the top is pleasantly toasty. The first 3 stages have recessed slide switches on top to switch 6.3 to 12.6v heaters, so common tube types are: 1st: 6SN7/12SN7, 12AU7 and many others w/ 8 to 9 pin adapter 2nd: 6SL7/12SL7, 12AX7 and many others w/ 8 to 9 pin adapter 3rd: 6N6P, ECC99, 12BH7A, possibly others such as 5687 w/ pin-out adapter 4th: Emission Labs 20B-V4
  5. 1.5m cable made for Japan, not viking
  6. Why under cut a supposedly original design by making it look just like the SRM-D10? Seems to show a lack of confidence
  7. Before you do anything, clean the inside of the amplifier
  8. I have seen 1 or 2 pairs need replacements but i think they are ones that were all early production
  9. keep in mind the thermal transfer for this package is not great, with a good insulator the IC will be 3C/W hotter than the heatsink. so you do need to keep the heatsink cool. temperature in this case with the RAAL is dependent on music and how loud you're listening. My guess is in most uses the heatsink will not exceed 40C. with no audio it will be room temp. so if the heatsink reaches 40C w/ an average of 15W per IC then the IC temp will be around 85C There is also the TO-3 package @ $150 ea. and Apex has parts of a similar price
  10. I received a suggestion that the grounds for the L/R output, which in this case is the 4-pin XLR but would also be the negative posts on the speaker terminals, be wired back to each L/R channel board rather to the star ground at the switching PSUs open for debate on that
  11. can try but it will be limited by voltage swing. 25W/8-ohm and 50W/4-ohm as of right now here is where the difficult work actually starts, and the time consuming work. I'd be interested if anyone wanted to finish it up before putting in the $$/cost on their own unit. for future board revisions: - make the jumper over the bass boost 3x 0.1" pins so a push-on jumper can be used + have a place to store it and/or add small signal DPDT 24v relay to switch it (add a 2nd value with moar boost?) - don't block the heatsinked part mounting screws with the electrolytic caps - holes for wires too small to accommodate 16awg, used 20awg instead - caddock resistors need to be bent in an L, move them closer to edge of pcb if possible - 2nd output hole for wiring another output
  12. RAALstar v0.1 with one of Ray's old test discs raalstar.mov
  13. mine are complete at allpcb using those files. shipping on hold to combine w/ a different order
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