Jump to content

Knuckledragger

High Rollers
  • Posts

    15,594
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    38

Knuckledragger last won the day on March 29 2022

Knuckledragger had the most liked content!

About Knuckledragger

  • Birthday January 3

Profile Information

  • Interests
    Photography, DJing, elektronisches musik, headphones, political spectating, watching the world burn (well I mean I'm not into it but it's going to happen anyway so....)
  • Location
    W.Massive / Vartha's Mine Yard
  • Gender
    Male

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://mixlr.com/illuminator/showreel/

Recent Profile Visitors

24,628 profile views

Knuckledragger's Achievements

Super Secret Ultra Gold Member

Super Secret Ultra Gold Member (6/6)

5k

Reputation

  1. How about some speaker not-porn? Some of you may recall that I made a post in the "What gear are you listening through right now?" thread during my final hours in my previous residence. That was an insanely hectic, difficult and sleep deprived time. I set up a mid 70s Marantz with a pair of (I think late 80s Yamaha NS-1000s) and used my MOTU M2 as a source. That arrangement kept me sane while I dealt with the 500 issues associated with moving. It doesn't look like much, but I assure you it did the job. NS-1000s are an ancient, boxy design. Their JA-0801 beryllium midrange drivers have a legendary status at this point. Tragically, many NS-1Ks were stripped of their mids and left to rot. I remember seeing JA-0801s being sold on eBay in the mid 00s for more than the cost of a full NS1K pair (largely because NS-1000s are 70 lbs each and expensive AF to ship.) I think that madness has subsided in recent years. Carerful observers will note the HeadRoom Desktop PSU perched on top of the Marantz, as well as the teenie, tiny wires I'm using to hook up the Yamahas. Said wires were lifted from a crappy "premium" Aiwa set my late stepather received as a gift from his kids. The Aiwa's speakers on the lower shelf to the left of frame. All I can say is that the wires worked.
  2. Possibly the only time I will post an FB link ...ever.
  3. I was explaining to my (sainted, octogenarian) mother the different focal length lenses for 35mm cameras and their usages. I quoted a famous and incredibly pithy piece of writing from Mike Johnston of The Online Photographer. In early 2009 (almost 14 years ago to the day) Mike went over every common focal length for 35mm lenses. A worrisome facet of the Information Age is that things are a lot less permanent than we thought. In spite of massive tech companies indexing and archiving goddamn everything, there's a lot fairly recent internet content that is gone or nearly gone. It took me entirely too long to find Mike's list, which is related to both its current scarcity and how crap Google search results are in 2023. With that said, I repost this here for posterity's sake: USES AND APPLICATIONS OF 35mm LENSES Fisheye: No known uses, except to illustrate fisheye effects in photo how-to books. Ultra-wide rectilinears wider than 19mm: Occasional interiors. Also used to stump gearheads trying to find stuff to photograph with the things. Ultra-wide-angle (19, 20, 21, or 24mm): One of the four of five essential lenses for pros, broadly useful for artists and accomplished amateurs. Used for landscapes, interiors, street shooting, crowd shots, etc. Also used by bored amateurs as the next thing to covet for purchase. Despite the ubiquity of this focal length, relatively few photographers are practiced enough or visually acute enough to use this type of lens effectively; lots more people own these than do good work with them. See Brian Bowers’ Leica books for a rare example of a scenic photographer who actually sees well with a 21mm. Ultra-wide-angle zoom (wide end 20mm or wider): Useful for when the photographer would like to carry one heavy lens instead of three light ones, or has a breezy, devil-may-care attitude towards flare effects. Secondary “CYA” lens for pros who aren’t great with wide angles in the first place. (Exceptions do exist.) Also sometimes paired with a fast 80-200mm zoom as a professional’s only two lenses. Wide angles: Now that 24mm is more often lumped with 20mm and 35mm has become an alternative “normal” focal length, this class has contracted down to one fixed focal length, 28mm. Useful as a do-anything lens (especially for street and art photography, photojournalism, faux photojournalism, and environmental portraits) where a wide “look” is desired, and/or to complement a 50mm main lens, and/or for pressing into service in place of a super-wide when the photographer does not own same. Shift lenses: Buildings. Used for the overcorrection of convergence caused by perspective. Ditto, but with tilt: Ditto above, plus landscapes with tons of foreground and tables laden with food. All-purpose 28-200mm zoom lenses: Bad snapshots. Also great for making five rolls of film last a whole year. All-purpose = no purpose. Wide normal primes (35mm): Alternative normal. Often, the thing replaced by a zoom. Easiest focal length to shoot with. Best focal length for Leicas. Not really "wide" by today’s standards, 35mm is an alternative normal. Leica M6, 35mm pre-ASPH., Ilford XP-2. “Pancake” Tessar-types, usually 45mm: Good for lightening the burden of photographers who would rather not carry an SLR at all. Normal/standard (50mm): Useful for taking photographs, if you have a thick skin. When used exclusively, classic “hair shirt” lens for disciplining oneself needlessly. Strangely, when in skilled hands, can mimic moderate wide angles as well as short telephotos. According to one far Eastern expert, lower yield of usable shots than 35mm lens, but higher yield of great shots. Second best focal length for a Leica. Standard 55–58mm: Shows you use a really, really old camera. Macros/micros: Flowers, bugs, eyeballs, eyelashes, small products, tchotchkes. Dew-covered spider webs, frost patterns on windowpanes. Great hobby lenses, as macro photographers are among the only happy photo enthusiasts. Also much utilized by photography buffs who like to test lenses. Superfast normals (ƒ/1, ƒ/1.2): Used for people who like limited depth of field, as well as for people who like to complain about limited depth of field. Also, especially when aspherical elements are involved, an effective way to vaporize excess cash for almost no good reason. Standard zooms (35-70mm, 28-105mm, 35-135mm, etc.): Used for taking pictures in bright light — mainly snapshots, scenics, cars, travel pictures, semi-naked women, underexposed pictures, and pictures blasted by uncontrolled on-camera flash. Evidently very useful for clichés. Sometimes used to remove interchangeability feature from interchangeable-lens cameras. Fast medium zooms: For pros, bread-and-butter lenses. For amateurs, often left at home rather than lugged around all day. If very expensive, big, and heavy, may be almost as good and almost as fast at any given focal length as cheap fixed primes. Good for making both hobbyists and their portrait subjects feel self-conscious. Short teles (75, 77, 80, 85, 90, 100, or 105mm): Portraits, tight landscapes, headshots, beauty and glamor. In skilled hands, can be used for general and art photography, photojournalism. Essential. 135mm prime: Little owned, less used. Became a standard 35mm focal length when rangefinders were the main camera type because it’s the longest focal length that is feasible on a rangefinder. Now vestigial, like a male’s nipples. Fast 180mm or 200mm prime: Longest general use lens for photojournalism. Sports, beauty, auto races, surveillance in film noire. Slow 180mm or 200mm prime: Lightweight and easy to carry. May project a certain “image,” i.e. that you are poor or cheap. Standard telephoto zoom (70 or 80 to 180, 200, or 210): Whether slow or fast, indispensable for most photographers, amateur or pro. Used for all kinds of action, activity, fashion, portrait, headshot, reportage, sports, wildlife, landscape, and nature photography. Covers all the telephoto range most photographers ever need, at least until they become afflicted by the terrible urge to photograph birds. IS (Canon) or VR (Nikon) standard telephoto zoom: Same as above, but for photographers who drink lotsa coffee and/or do crank. Fast 300mm: Fashion, catalog, runway, sports, nature, air shows. Important lens for pros, also for nature photographers. Tough for amateurs unless shooting surreptitious faces in crowds or critters. Status symbol. As fashion, looks grand when accessorizing a photo vest. Super-telephoto zooms (to 300mm or more on long end): For adjusting FOV when standpoint is constrained. Replaces several heavy primes. Sometimes pressed into service by amateurs who have burr up ass about having all focal lengths “covered.” 400mm: Critters, sports, and birds. Landscapes, if you’re a nut. Also good for photographing football games when you don’t want the picture to show a dang thing about what’s going on. 500mm: Critters and birds. Money laundering: can be bought and sold to placate wife about questionable expenses. “But I sold one of my lenses to pay for it, honey, honest.” 600mm: Critters. 1200mm: No known uses. — Mike Johnston _____________________________________________________ "Uses and Application of 35mm Lenses" is taken from Issue #7 ofThe 37th Frame, which I hope to send in early September. There are two companion articles, "Choosing Lenses: What’s Seeing Got to Do with It?" and "Why a 35mm is the Best Lens for a Leica." The Issue also contains a number of lens reviews, plus a long article about the new Leica 50mm Summilux ASPH. To subscribe, go towww.37thframe.com.If you’re already a subscriber and haven’t gotten Issue #6 yet, please don’t despair — I’m making steady progress in contacting people and setting up accounts. If you do not receive an e-mail from me, you will receive a letter. Thanks for being patient! --- The frequency with which I use the expression "the terrible urge to photograph birds" defies probability.
  4. DIY JBL 4355 home cinema soundbar.
  5. Just about every full frame digital camera ever made is still worth using to this day. There are a few exceptions, the original Leica M8 was more or less a steaming pile of garbage. It had a host of dealbreaking problems, from exposure inconsistency, UV sensitivity, color rendition, to a very slow and clunky UI. It was an insult to buyers of a $5500 (in 2006 dollars) digital camera that bore the Leica name and could mount some of the greatest 35mm glass in the world. Fortunately, the M8 is an exception. Most full frame digital cameras (SLR or otherwise) are still a blast to use. Even older cropped sensor cameras with swappable glass are still good for subjects that are far away. I have an OG Canon 5D (that is, ahem, IR modified) that I am going to dig out, clean off and fire up this spring. 12MP is still plenty for my purposes and a full frame sensor plus a wide zoom (in my case 17-40mm) is just too much fun. Unedited photo, straight out of the camera. Fussed over in Photoshop. Meow.
  6. I'm on hotel WiFi, also I must inform you that this is a thing.
  7. As I've mentioned in other threads, my entire life is in boxes right now. As part of switching this house to a "skeleton crew" I dug up a "flat" Airport Extreme that I had mothballed years ago and fired it up. I had it up and running in under 20 minutes. I really wish Apple still made AirPorts. Their east of use is unparalleled.
  8. Thanks for the wishes. Never have I been so tired, on my birthday or any other day. The movers arrive tomorrow at 8AM.
  9. I've been packing since (what feels like) the dawn of time. With that said, I glanced at the news a couple times this week.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.