spritzer

Odds are you will never see it. You can try to view the diaphragm at an angle next to a strong light and watch for something that stands out in the reflection. The driver assembly is the housing as the stators are attached directly to the plastic shell and the only other two bits are the small metal bit that connects the bias to the diaphragm and the diaphragm itself with the attached metal rings. With the housing shut tight there is nothing to rattle inside but the diaphragm can to some crazy shit when there is an intermittent short to one of the stators.

There is some debris in there!!!! Try unplugging them and shorting out the plug and hear the sound disappear. If you are getting sound then it isn't the bias pin and no channel imbalance means that the stators are still locked in place. A single particle of dust can cause the drivers to crazy things. I've watched a HE60 rattle and shake from oscillations of the diaphragm. It was like the vibration function in a cellphone and all caused by some dust. I hope that the drivers aren't close to the woodworking as there isn't really a dustcover on the backside of the drivers.

The only thing that can easily rattle is the small metal plug used to connect the bias plug to the metal ring holding the diaphragm. If the stator was off by even a fraction of a millimeter then the channel imbalance would be severe.

I've had something similar happen in the past but it was due to some debris inside the driver. Just open it up and (beware of the + stator wire as they almost always break!!!) and blow all dust of the diaphragm with you mouth. It's worth a try as there isn't much to rattle inside it.

It's the same as the early Pro model so they will sound the same. The only thing lacking is the Pro bias supply. The normal bias phones are preferred since they are cheaper and sound great, better in fact then the Lambda Pro's. This doesn't mean that the normal bias is universally preferable as the Lambda Signature (often called Pro Signature due to an error in the early instructions manuals) is the best Lambda design along with the SR-SC1 and both are Pro bias. I usually recommend an amp with both types of outputs so there is an upgrade path and the ability to drive every Stax headphone.

If they aren't total noobs then I'm fine with it. You might have noticed the influx of "LOL" over on HF in the Stax threads...?

It looks like we have a new convert here...!

Very nice!! It should also get rof the slight tunnel effect that these drivers can create.

I'll post a full impression thread once I get it with internal pics and all.

There is one of the older units on A'gon for 3.5k or there about and the final upgrade is around 2k$ with the digital input. The APL is more then a mod as large chucks of the player are removed while other parts are either bypassed or modified. Basically everything after the drive is removed and replaced with a new upsampler, 32bit AKM Dac's and a transformer coupled ECC99 output. If I like it as much as I hope I will then it's NWO time... Mine left Memphis, TN on the 17th so I guess it should be here right after the weekend.

I will certainly do my very best. I think it is time to rebias the BH in anticipation... The SR-007A is the Japan only model so it's silver but otherwise it is the same as the SR-007MkII the elusivedisc.com is selling. This set was originally bought from EIFL a few weeks ago so they are nearly new. The T1S is very similar to the original T1 amp but adds balanced input and an input switch. The sound very similar with the T1 more laid back and relaxed and the T1S and T1W a little more forward. It's a very small difference though. They sell for anything between 500-800$ depending on the market and condition.

What can I do... my other headphones were so lonely.... The small matter that my APL is also, finally , on the way might have been the push I needed.

That would have been possible here a few months ago but now I'm down to the basic "I can't sell these!!" lineup. I do how ever have a confession to make... I just bought a SR-007A...

The finish is indeed getting better but they are instead messing with the drivers in a bad way.

Simply brilliant.

You aren't really helping and that offer I got to buy a nearly new SR-007A didn't either.... \

That's true but I've sold some 27 headphones since November so I really am cutting back. Now I have only 10 electrostatics that I'm going to keep (some 10 more that are for sale, waiting for mods or awaiting repair) and two orthos. I'm not counting my stash in Japan but they can't be included since I've never even seen them...

Mine is slightly larger then a melon but that's not the point. The size of the head isn't really the problem but the shape of the area around the ears and the angle there. The earpieces need to be at the right angle compared to the ears since there is no swivel mount. Stop talking about the SR-007A/II... I'm really trying to cut back... \

Looks great but how does it sound?

It can be a bit frustrating at times but you never have to do it again.

That will take care of any HV delay problems in an instant.

The Lambda Pro I was selling is a fine headphone and much more in line with the electrostatic sound. The SR-X shows how brutally revealing 'stats can be as it was designed to be a monitor headphone. Any one of the Lambdas is a good first headphone but the price is higher then with the older Stax models which are also a good step into the Stax "sound". You can use transformers to drive the SR-007 but they are far from being good enough. They simply can't give the phones the power they need to shine.

The 727 isn't that bad but it could also be malfunctioning. It's hard to tell without something to compare either the amp or headphones to.

It makes a great marketing tool as we all know that thinner is better.... right?? You don't need to angle the drivers if you use the Lambda earpads since they are already angled. Now if you are going for a more Sigma like design then angle away... I don't know where you can find this stuff in the US but I have used some old IKEA desktop crap as a source for black mesh and it worked really well. You should also make it concave and mount it properly so that is won't vibrate. First off the Sigma isn't a good way to discover the electrostatic sound as they sound very different from a Lambda or a SR-X. They have many of the same strengths but also some weaknesses due to the unique design. The Sigma needs a lot of power so unless you are going with a Blue Hawaii I'd stick with a speaker amp and an adapter.

I've bought 3 sets of SR-007 new over the years and while they improved a little with use it was never a dramatic "ALO" burn in effect. There is a scientific fact why electrostatic transducers need to be run in but the whole 300-500 hours seems like fluff number invented by some K701 owner...