GeorgeP
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Posts posted by GeorgeP
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47 minutes ago, iwik said:
Guys,
I have completed my power supply and all went well. Now ready to assemble the Amp in the case. I have a dilemma, holes in the pcb for the
octals are 1.9mm and my sockets have a bump on the pins which are 2.3mm. Can i drill out the holes or do i have to file this bump off
What was the reasoning behind putting the pots on the backside ?. As i may have to change my pots to the other side due to miscalc when
i made my case. My amp pcb is the original version from Kevin. All comments appreciated
Thanks
Agree with Kevin, but I think he is referring to original his chassis design.
I am guessing from what you are saying that with your top plate installed that there is no room for the trimpots to be on the up facing side of the board - is that right? You don't "have" to mount the trimpots on that side, it just makes it easier to adjust the batteries with the bottom plate on and the amp sitting flat.
And I am also guessing that your concern with the octals is that they would protrude too far above your top plate? You could go either way I suppose, just bearing in mind the you if you drill the board and all the other parts are installed, you run the risk of some conductive debris being lodged somewhere unknown until the time that you power on the amp. or you could check ebay for some sockets that don't have the bumps in the pins.
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^ any recommendations on a good crimper?
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8 minutes ago, joehpj said:
current is 20mA
Temp is lower than I expected. Room temp is about 25-27 and I can put my hand on the sink by just feeling a little bit hot after 2 turning on for 3 hours. I think the huge sink did good job. size:12.5*31*5cm, the base is 1cm thick.
What voltage psu have you built? Looks to be 400v or is it less?
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Sameer, how much do you need? I can send you some in a few different colors.
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16 minutes ago, TMoney said:
RE: MSB
If this is true then maybe they need to raise $$$ for their founders legal defense fees?
http://www.superbestaudiofriends.org/index.php?threads/the-boss-of-msb-raped-his-own-daughters.1946/
Fuck, if true this is certainly worse than the voluntary raping that his customers receive.
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4 hours ago, Kerry said:
Noise issue solved on the right channel
I'd like to think I'm brilliant, but in this case purely dumb luck. I changed out one of the K216s coming out of the top of one of the batteries. I needed to do this because of the dumb part of my luck. I do love this power supply
....
Was it just a faulty K216?
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Awesome work Kerry!
3PPSG requires a vise to press them through, or you need to drill out the tabs. 10PPSG will fit all the transistors used without modification or the use of a vise.
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On 4/20/2016 at 7:36 AM, wink said:
I've been banned from HF's Stax thread for making fun of edstrelow's and richard51's dynamat modding exploits. ...
Hey, me too, but for unrelated pricejapan stupidity. Though flappy bird said he would let me post again if i gave him a good teabagging - didn't think it was worth it.
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Happy Birthday, Wachara!
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$0.20/pc for 1968 are probably fakes.
Also, it would probably help folks to better help you if you posted some pictures.
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18 minutes ago, JoaMat said:
There are all kinds of EL34. Some good and some better.
A few years ago I acquired those EL34. Probably manufactured in Eindhoven Feb. 1951(left) and Feb. 1954(right).
Those look like the old EL60 with factory attached 8-pin sockets and re-labelled as EL34.
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would that include the grlv, grhv and carbon boards as well?
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aren't the voltages different from the 6dj8? Not something I would recommend or experiment with on a T2.
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Try the 6dj8 first regarding the clicks and the pops - that's where I would look.
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That's good news. And yes, current limiting is happening. It is the 30ohm on the -500 that does it - drop it to 25 or thereabouts.
On Paul's T2 traffos, someone else from that same buy is getting a lot of hum as well. My set is quiet though, so go figure.
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happy birthday, Craig!
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the high pitched whining is not unusual, but there shouldn't be any once it is dialed in.
also, shouldn't be any downside to firing up both sides at the same time since you have fired up each side individually already.
hard to say what is going on after you sheared the led. Was it running when it happened? Also you shouldn't have to disengage the heatsinks to replace the front plate. As Marc pointed out, the lower negative voltages suggests current limiting, but it shouldn't be happening with only one side turned on.
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does sound like it, unless he only has one umbilical.
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Pm'd, but thought I would post it here in case others were wondering - is there still time to add one's name to the spreadsheet?
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You mean "Blue Hawaii Special Edition- Mk Deuce".
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14 hours ago, JoaMat said:
Thanks, so the servo keep the offset to zero from the start (except from the first seconds when power on) and further on without any fluctuations?
Same question.
Though the carbon seems very stable without either servo - offsets start out under 20v and gets to less than 1v fairly quickly - not sure it is needed.
Also wanted to mention that this thing runs very hot (especially the 450v version).
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Paid - thanks!
The ultimate DIY? A Stax SRM-T2!
in Do It Yourself
Posted
Yes they did (they were the CMC ones), but the spacing was perfect for my purposes. Down to the threaded portion seems odd though - wouldn't that mean the actual socket portion is sitting only a few millimetres from the board?