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DefQon

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Posts posted by DefQon

  1. Speaking of Ray selling his business (actually liked the portable SR-71 amp with the HD650's), just found out yesterday that Vinni's RWA (Red Wine Audio) is no longer in business. Be surprised myself as some of his RWA ipod mods was shilled to no end on headfi when portable started becoming the latest craze back then.

  2. The one problem with the original T2 which both Birgir and Kevin addressed is the amp is no longer within spec by this stage due to the heat and unregulated power supply it is powered off. The biggest advantage the DIYT2 has over the original T2 is better, bigger and regulated power supply it runs off as well as a bigger footprint with the circuit board so everything isn`t sandwiched together so closely like the T2. This ensures no thermal limitation problems are met or exceeded.

  3. Too many possibilities as to what is wrong.  

     

    Where should I start first? Checked all ground points in and out of the amp to be fine (didn't really touch them). I have a feeling the pot is to blame. 

     

    Yep turns it was the pot.

     

    Measured the 4700pf 650v silver mica on the output board, one measures 550vdc, 100vdc. The second output board measures 140vdc, 400vdc. Transistors replaced. Resistors still within rated tolerance, 2sk30 fets borked?

     

    Hmm

  4. So in goes replacement 2sc1167 for my 12S that I`ve been trying to fix. A new problem distortion kicks in as well as buzzing when I go mid way on the volume dial. Cleaned the pots, dc offset and balance adjusted as close possible to 0v, bias checked after the 4.7mohm is 134vdc and before the 4.7mohm is about 200vdc for normal bias. Haven`t touched anything else, any suggestions spritzer?

    Also what is the pot for on the detachable psu card plugged into the main psu board? Any suggestions spritzer?

    Sent from my LG-D855 using Tapatalk

  5. That dirty SRA-3S I posted pictures on headfi while back has been rebuilt for about a month now. Running fine. Decided to add pro-bias, looking at the only available circuit diagram there is a 560v tap from the voltage doubler just before the voltage divider, found out and measured if the 300kohm resistor in series to the 390kohm and other end reference to ground is changed to 390kohm this gives 580-582vdc just after the second diode which is perfect for pro-bias. My test purpose only 202's sound rather nice with the slight coloration of the tubes and a little heft to the low-end. 

     

    All that is left to fix is the dud SRM-3 and waiting for my spare 2SC1167 output transistors to arrive to finalise my SRA-12S repair. 

  6. Actually, I hold the Lampizator in high regards in terms of sound quality it really is that good. Lukuz seems to have ironed out most build issues and variations his earlier units had. Whether or not its worth it is up to the listener.

  7. Carbon resistors way out of spec? 

     

    Bingo, although my one looks to be the ones with 1/2 metal resistors all over, so far only picked up R102 and R202 on the channel input being completely out of spec, schematics say 910K, R-Input measures 33ohms and L-Input measures 11.2ohms. Measured the array of HV resistors on output all fine and the resistors near the trimpot area so far fine as well. 

  8. I`m surprised he didn`t come here telling us all how much his O2`s improved with burn in.

    On the other hand, 20vdc or there abouts with offset measurement on L+/- with SRM 1 MK2 Pro powered on for an hour, confirmed sound on all output, no obvious damage all other checks and opposite channel adjusted as close possible to 0vdc just left channel has mentioned problem, any idea on cause spritzer? Trimpot already maxed with turns.

    Sent from my LG-D855 using Tapatalk

  9. Nope not cut. Amp came to me as 100v I tested it twice while back off a step down and it was fine except the R19 blew again. Tested it again recently with new transistors and didn`t power on. Then I changed the primary to 240 and 120 and those didn`t work either. Also eliminated the switch as being the culprit.

     

    EDIT: Facepalm. Turns out my step down trafo blew its fuse (even though the front switch led is on), oddly enough a possible short in the SRM-3 after I replaced the transistors and R19 it did not blow its internal 1.5A fuse.

     

    Will try it again. But yes uncommon for a trafo to suddenly turn out to be faulty.

     

    EDIT2: Nope no go, trafo is borked. What's the ratings on these units?

  10. Ok well found out the problem, tried flipping the output boards again and a few times with my testing purposes only sr 3 the right channel would work, flipped the board and the problem replicated on the left side for the problems. This was a lesson to be taken out the book when I repaired my SRM 1 MK1 that ended up with a intermittently working HV 2SC1828 output device and a dead 2sk130. So i desoldered the transistors and doing from base to collector and emitter diode test since the 2sc1167 is npn I found the collector to have double the values of the same test done on all other transistors. So most likely case a faulty 2sc1167 on its last legs. Am a bit afraid the high hv might`ve taken out the 4 2sk30a gr and o grade jfets in the input side which are near impossible to source.

    Sent from my LG-D855 using Tapatalk

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