DefQon
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Posts posted by DefQon
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If I don't log into head-case it gives me:
Sorry, there is a problem
Something went wrong. Please try again.Error code: EX2
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On 18/11/2015, 04:24:14, edstrelow said:
Can you turn a low bias unit into a pro just by increasing the thickness of the spacer (and rewiring the plug?)
Yes you can. I've done this to SR-3 and Gamma units.
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Anybody had experience with these attenuators?
Mine had channel imbalance at around 9'O clock on the dial. For about the same price I'd go with a DACT CT-2/4
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They might offer to buy Andy`s DIYT2.
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Spritzer are you able to get a hold of technical information on the construction and parameters of the drivers used in the new Orpheus? (D/S gap, film type, coating type, holes on stator etc?).
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I pulled the drivers out of the cups and swapped them to see if the issue was in the cable. Unfortunately the imbalance followed the drivers, but I did notice something strange about the quiet driver. Where the loud driver is shiny the quiet one has a kind of haze on the rear stator. It almost looks like a fungus of some sort. Here are some pictures of what I'm talking about.
EDIT: I pulled the driver apart and found NO ARCING! The diaphragm was glued to the rear stator and has some hazy residue on it. I suspect this driver may have been exposed to some moisture or something explaining it's problems. Here's a picture of the diaphragm.
I flipped the diaphragm over and reassembled the driver and now I'm getting full output from both drivers! Bass is present too. I think the perceived lack of bass was due to the channel imbalance. The good driver was working properly the whole time.
Should I do anything to try and clean the diaphragm and stators, or should I just leave well enough alone and enjoy them now that they are working?
That is how I've fixed 4 of each of my SR-X MK1-3 and all of them were purchased from Japan sold as junk. The problem with the diaphragm sticking to the back stator is more common on the MK3 models and few of mine had to have had the diaphragm replaced. Moisture (humid areas), poor storage condition (headphone under the sunlight or heat sources) are all possible culprits to the problem as it will cause the diaphragm to sag and stick to the stator.
I would re-coat that diaphragm as most of the coating is lost after being peeled off from the back stator and imbalance will settle in again soon enough. This happened to my last MK3 I fixed which I thought was fine and I had it on the test/burn-in bench for 1 week straight and the channel imbalance came in and the driver ended up dying on me completely. Just food for thought in case it does happen.
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Conrad's communication is a hit and miss for both small and large batch orders.
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O/T: I really don't get all the fuss about this sorbothane (or dynamat rubber sheet) mods as of late I mentioned this years back in the old Stax thread about me doing it to my LP's after I took the suggestion originally made by spritzer years before when he mentioned the baffle and housing on the Lamba's is what holds back the lambda drivers, now edstrelow started doing the Sorbothane mods and everyone on cunt-fi is seeing this as the second coming of bread and shit.
Anyway I hope Sennheiser don't sell many of these new Orpheus' so they can pay attention to make products normal people can afford. This statement product bullshit is nothing short of stupidity one could be seen comparable with the likes of Goldmund or EAR.
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The whole patent paper reminds me of the big American audio companies in the 90's re-badging cheap players from Japan then claiming and marketing as if they made the whole thing from scratch, Wadia, Audio Alchemy etc.
The patent system is a clusterfuck anyway, the whole Apple vs Samsung patent wars years ago shows exactly that and the patent system is nothing but a bogus broken framework.
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More time spend on cable = higher cost.
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It will sell but won't sell very well outside of people mainly in need for portable systems and the market in Malaysia, Singapore, Japan and Hong Kong. $1k is more realistic, $2k is just *no comment* and from what I gathered that's just the earphones? No amp and such?
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Shouldn't matter then. The old styled case are very old Toshiba.
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What fets did the previous owner change them to? Should be 2 2SK30A O and GR idss grade jfets and a single Y idss 2SC734.
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DSD, 192, I am no engineer but reading stuff and hearing stuff, I am amazed on how easy is to sell snake oil to "audiophiles"
Easy to shill, market, lie and make profit out of it so why not.
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Don`t use superglue its not going to work, hold the diaphragm and will get messy to clean up and the ring will not sit flush in the bottom plastic housing grooves if super glue builds up on the side, I tried this the first time and did not work out.
The original adhesive on the ring is strong thin double sided 3m tape which is what I used after 6 attempts. There is a tension built into the drivers no need to tension them before assembly. Just cut a big square piece of mylar and lay it flat on a clean clear surface. Tape one side of the mylar and then stretch the otherside out with little force until there is no wrinkles left in the mylar. Then tape that end down. Cut out the adhesives for the rings after you`ve cleaned it and then stick the rings on top of the square mylar piece. Push it down so it sticks. Remove one side of tape and use a soldering gun to clean excess mylar. Now its time to coat them.
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What happened to your BHSE?
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How did you adjust for 290vdc from the collector? The 50k or 500ohm pot on the output board?
I still can't fix this damn unit, have replaced everything on the PSU boards, everything on the output boards except the trimpots, 910ohm input resistor, the input stage single 2sk30 jfets and the 2sk734. I can't have the IS button not pressed down without huge distortion, when IS is engaged any song with bass will distort the transducers past 2'O clock on the volume dial. With the black probe in the ground post at the back, meter adjusted for vdc if I measure the case of the HV transistors with the amp on and not playing any music it measures -250vdc but I can adjust for -290vdc through the pots. If I put the dmm to vac it reads about 130vac. Why is it negative on vdc? Although both channels read -290vdc once adjusted for it just doesn't make sense.
I'am tempted to bring out the hammer.
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If it has none of the treble peak the HD800 has which can only be reduced via modding, sign my ass for 2 of these. But the price I think will be within the vicinity of $2-2.5k.
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Something tells me these will not sell well and there will be cable reliability problems.
Not like there was any real problem with the original 001`s transducer wise but isolation and fit was indeed a problem.
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Thanks I was testing it on my SRM 1 and 3S amp and they didn`t have the juice so I decided to try my 323S and SRM 1 MK2 both which have a higher output power and it sounded a lot better but still not driving it to its potential.
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I was reading the patent Shure filled for these a year ago. It's interesting to see they actually came out with the product.
Not really impressed with the price. The SRH846 or whatever the fuck it's called is a piece of shit and that's there TOTL $1000 iem so guess all these companies have there heads so far up there arses and think we consumers all have the salary income equivalent of a dentist or lawyer.
EDIT: Here's the patent paper:
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So my ECR-400 has finally been converted to a full blown e-stat. I wouldn't exact call it a Lambda killer but it has traits that makes it very natural and pleasingly sounding, but the speed of this thing is incredible and hold's its own against a O2 mk1 powered off a BHSE for black metal. Anyway the bass and volume suffers on 580v and 640vdc bias when I turn it up to my normal listening levels as the d/s gap is quite large between the diaphragm and stators. What would be the easiest bias supply that can provide up to 1kv bias (so I can adjust for 700,800 and 900vdc) for testing?
Next up ECR-500 on the bench.
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I really hope the 4 is worth 4k. Seems Audeze needs to get there heads out there arses with the miniscule change with a big price tag. Seems they are competing with the Hifiman HE1k price wise. We don`t need a second JPS labs.
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Part Sourcing Assistance/Advice Thread
in Do It Yourself
Posted · Edited by DefQon
Are the C32725's PNP or NPN? On-Semi and Fairchild datasheets indicate they are PNP (BC327 range) but I've tested them out of an old Unison Research amp I'm fixing and they turn out to be NPN rather than PNP. Same goes for the C33725's (BC337) as spec'd as NPN but they test PNP in and out of the circuit.
They are old C32/33725 parts with the silver etched background on the TO92 transistors so apparantly the new BC327/337 range are modern replacements.
Is this a datasheet error (which I find it hard to believe to be across 3 manufacturers) or are the BC337/327 completely different to the C32/33725's?