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sorenb

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Posts posted by sorenb

  1. On 4/23/2016 at 1:40 PM, kevin gilmore said:

    goldenreference is only good for about 1.5 amps

    when you need a lot more than that, you have to add an extra set of pass transistors. like the ones on the uber2amp board. And they have to be mounted to a large heatsink

    did a load test of a stock GRLV configured for +/-20V, using a lab supply as source . 
    Unloaded 20.0556V out, and at 4.25A it drops to 20.0333V - caused by the resistance of the trace (between sensing resistor and terminal block) itself.
    Seems to be stable regulating as long as the voltage drop across the pass transistor is > 3V (Kevin recommends > 4V though).
    Also going above 1.5A one might benefit from upping the current to the driver transistor (Kevin mention this earlier in this thread) and using larger caps.
    The largest I can find that fits is this https://www.mouser.dk/Passive-Components/Capacitors/Aluminum-Electrolytic-Capacitors/Aluminum-Electrolytic-Capacitors-Snap-In/_/N-75hr0?P=1z0j7l0Z1z0x3saZ1yx4awyZ1yx4atvZ1ypb2ikZ1z0vn3sZ1z0wqdeZ1z0wqf4

     

    Using a 24VAC 100VA transformer, I get almost the same.
    At 4.2A the regulation drops at 4.2V Vce (21.6VAC input).
    Seems like > 4V (as Kevin has stated earlier) is what is need when < 1.5A, and more like 7v if approaching 4A (and raising the current for the driver)

     

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  2. 1 hour ago, jose said:

    Yesterday I was checking and cleaning up some things;

    1. R9 and R10 it´s ok (2k and 1.5K). Identical values on both sides 

    2. I changed Q2,Q10,Q13,Q11, Q5 (and D6 for try something)

    With the same result. -13,23volt. 

    3. I move trimpot (100K) but I haven´t any variation 

    The first difference that I find between both rails is at the anode D6 (-14,9volt) and D4 (+15,64volt).

    4. Volt in Pin2 and Pin3 (OPA134) is -10volt

    This afternoon I will concentrate on the area of Q12, 1N914 and Trimpot. 

     

     

    it's a bit "odd" that you have -3.23V across the R9 (2k) (meaning 1.6mA), and at the same time 10V across R10 (1k5) (meaning  6.7mA) , so where does the remainder  5.1mA go? C3 as Kevin points to seems to be a reasonable guess ...provided that the 1Megs resistors are correct (which it seems from your pics), or the OpAmp itself ...

  3. hard to say what is going on, 100ohms is what I am using for 20mA  ....from what you report, I'd suggest you go through the soldering....if you have been a bit to generous with the solder, it might hide a bad joint or two ....use some wick, and be careful not to use too much solder ...maybe the A42's (just guessing)
    OP27A is ony used if you engage the servo

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  4. dial the trim to around middle, if you have -300V in both O+ and O- and cannot dial in against zero with the offset trimmer, you might raise the tail resistor , if you have 100-120ohms in that position, you might try 150ohms rather, if you already have 150ohms...try 200ohms, you get the drift

    Also, check the other channel, if that channel is in balance, you might check if you got all the resistor values right

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  5. @Craig Sawyers: @Blueman2 is rather asking for any benefit finding a DAC with bal out rather than SE. I'd say it boils down to how the DAC is creating the balanced signal, which might be difficult to determine if no inside pics or schematic is available from the specific DAC.
    That said, it might be of higher importance that he likes the sonic signature of the DAC rahter than focus on the DAC being SE og Bal.

  6. first "All Triode" ... a bit humble, but never the less, described the main idea,  ... a breakout to the pacific and Blue Hawaii came to life,  sometimes wonder if the place of birth had been Burger King, the amp would have been "Whopper Cheese" as  James McLamore thought it conveyed "imagery of something big"  ...
    then a bit more bold: KGSS: "Kevin Gilmore Solid State" , humming along same convention came the KGSShv  the creator soon realized that the mini panels preferred by the baker didn't  had enough real estate for the trend of adding letters for every bright idea ....Megatron was  a bold stand up against Disney, although the pupils of Walt soon realized that the best thing to do, was not to do anything ... one knows Darth Wader when he comes around! ...being the Che Guevara of electrostatic amplification can be a bit challenging at times although having high potential, so a short re-visit to the old scheme, and the Kevin Gilmore Single Triode (KGST) was a reality , but sadly didn't really take off .... the hole thing started as means of creating the best for the SR-007 ... my name is Bond ...Carbon ....feeling dizzy? confused? everything going in circles? and the  Circlotron was a reality ....I bet Q has a plan, anyways, it is about time that a proper amp is named: "Surströmming", as the taste is more delicious  than the smell ...

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  7. 4 hours ago, bui501 said:

    Finally got off my ass and started to populate the boards for my Carbon build... I’m on a roll now... I just hope I don’t run out of scotch before the boards are finished...

    947125bd2c548df0b3e27977a274db33.jpg


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

     

    3 hours ago, Blueman2 said:

    Looking great!  I see you are following mwl168's advice and elevating the resistors.  Smart.  Looking very good so far.  So you will be finished my morning?  I mean with the Scotch.  

     

    elevating resistors and caps are not needed on those boards, as the boards do not have any ground plane on top. (so the only resistor needed to be elevated is the power resistor on the PSU board).
    Probably easier to populate the SMDs and socket before resistors, as the resistor sort of get in your way now

  8. if you lower the picth, aiming for A4 @ 432Hz, you'll have a perfect B2 pedal point ...might make a good contrast to the fluttering appearing a little later :rolleyes:

    Anyways ...most likely the wiring harness around the output board that picks up the rectified mains or bad connections somewhere .... look at the schematic for the output board; the batteries, resistors (and the current limiter you have added) are supposed to be an integrated part hereof, meaning shortest possible wiring - maybe start with red and blue wires...

  9. 1 hour ago, mwl168 said:

    Built yet another GRLV for my CFP amp. 

    This one set for 26VDC rails and the current draw from it is about 1.1A. Empirical evidence that the GRLV can supply more than 1A current from both rails.

    Don't have LT1021 on hand so using LM4040 for voltage reference for now. It's much cheaper but also much higher noise. OP07 in place of OPA134.

    Those resistors standing tall and proud is my way of easily adjusting rail voltage while I am tinkering with the CFP amp. They are inserted into Mill-Max headers below.

    Cannot really see from the pic but the pass transistors are bolted to a heatsink below.

    EDIT: at this current draw, you need to allow for higher dropout voltage. I would plan for solid 26vac input for 26VDC regulated rains to be safe. 

    GRLV for CFP.JPG

    zeners? ...really?

  10. 46 minutes ago, MLA said:

    So around 2A in total (pos and neg rail combined)? If I remember correctly, Dynahi pulls about 2.4A in total (600mA per rail per board), so you'll be close to Dynahi levels with your next step

    Btw, can GRLV deliver that much current? I thought it maxed out at 1.5A, but maybe that was per rail, not total?

    one might do one/two unregluated PSU's, and feed it to each channel through some pairs of C5200/A1943 being controlled by one GRLV, like Kevin is doing in the Über

  11. 31 minutes ago, stator said:

    i was listening couple of months ago to QA Transdyn at thinkers place with SR-009 and SR-007MK1,it was overall excellent sound ,some sort of meaty/warm detailed presentation with lots of power.Other people who heard it liked it quite a bit.I have been at he's place many times and heard lots of different stat amps and this is one of the best .Phenomenon phones are already in third generation and are coming in next month from Russia ,i will report something about them.

     

    did you ever listen to a Stax SRD7 ? that will probably provide you a similar enjoyment

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