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Cynric

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  1. Cynric

    Stax plug

    Happiliy diggin up a corpse here, but I am currently in need of a Stax Plug (6P) in Europe. Cooper 86-71-6S or 91-MPM6S should do (which apperently are from the old WPI old Amphenol molds); however I could only find them at Allied who only cater US & Canada. Does anybody know of a source for these that ships to Europe/Germany?? Background on this: I recently bought a NOS Beyer ET1000 but I want to get rid of the ugly transformer box that came with it and use my Stax amp with them..
  2. Stax Germany only sells the pads with the cloth anymore. The cloth comes with a little rim around it, so you can easily pull it out of the phones and put it back in. To me the cloth kills a little brilliance (which I love and thus keep the cloth in the drawer), don't know about the foam though since I got my Lambdas without it. If you like a little brighter voices just get the cheaper pads with the foam and cut it away...
  3. Sure, but what good does this immense power do, when the voltage can only swing between
  4. That's not much. Wonder why they say it's for stats though - I always thought stat speakers needed extra high levels (kV) to work properly? Or is this only true for the bias supply?
  5. I've got the ANC7 for situations like that and can pretty much recommend them. Soft pads, padded headband, very comfy overall unless your gf has really big ears, in which case they might not be circumaural anymore. Really good isolation against deep frequencies and uniform noise. Soundwise a little on the bass heavy side (which is ok for outdoor use imho), but really good bass and mids quality and precision. The only thing I seriously dislike is the rolled off treble / brilliance which makes the phones sound pretty low-res in the highs; can be fixed by bumping an EQ around 8kHz a little. They do make a little static noise, but you wont hear that anymore once the music is playing... The phones come with useful other features and goodies, the battery lasts forever and they are pretty cheap (got mine around 100$ iirc).
  6. Thank you for the suggestions, but no luck with that, neither with loosened nor with firmly tightened screws. DC is very unlikely to be an issue, according to my meter there are only a few mV of DC on our AC line. Dampening won't work either, cause there is next to no room left over the transformer, squeezing some sound absoring stuff in there and pressing the lid down also didn't solve the buzzing.. Sigh, guess I'll either have to change the transformer or live with it...
  7. just to confirm: the buzzing is coming from the transformer and is pretty audible. 220V or 240V does not matter. I'll try loosening its screws a little, maybe there is just some tension causing it to vibrate. If that does not work, i'll see if i can dampen the case somehow; Or is there any chance of finding out the transformer specs and buying a new one?
  8. Mine is on 240V and as far as I can remember his is too. We do live in the same town, however different houses. I checked with his amp just an hour ago and it does buzz a little (in addition to a 50Hz hum, which mine does not have. I'll see if I can find out from wich parts the sound comes tomorrow.
  9. No, not yet. But a friend of mine who also has an srm1 mk2 is having the same issue with his, so i thought it might be a known problem. It's really subtle, sou you either need to know it's there or place your ear right above the vent holes of the amp to hear it...
  10. Has someone here looked into the buzzing sound of the SRM1 Mk2 (or how to get rid of it) yet? I mean that very quiet and high noise it makes once turned on, sounds like harmonics from the power line 50hz (nothing on the phones, the sound is coming out of the case). Not a big deal - once you turn up the music you won't notice anyway - but it would be nice to have the amp totally silent...
  11. I'd rather go for an ancient, cheap amp like the srm-1 mk-2 with some new psu-caps. Should be a lot better than your transformer box and is not going to blow your wallet.
  12. look at post #25, that was a mistranslation, ujamerstand posted the correct one...
  13. That's where the hookers in your brothel are aquiring thier customers.
  14. I wonder if the stack in the mold can get a decent seal and retain the diaphragms tension on the long run as the glued stack of the old lambdas could.. otherwise the whole thing looks pretty thought-out! But what is the problem with the headband you mentioned? did they reduce the adjustable area?
  15. Well I got my lambda pro and srm1/mk2 for ~400€ from ebay germany about a year ago. all similar auctions i followed before and since then reached similar end prices (say
  16. in case you arwe still looking for a lambda pro in the eu, there is currently one on ebay germany which seems to be in excellent condition; with new ltd-pads and everything. there is also a 2050 set ending today; maybe that guy will ship to your conutry too - he wrote an english description, so you might be lucky...
  17. thanks for the comments, spritzer. Said friend sent me some pictures of his amp. Seems to be a version somehow between your PP and my A, since it has the big cap in the low bias supply, but still uses the longer wire-bridges. Also he has those fancy wire-resistors and plastic wire clips, but not the solid wires. Lastly he dicovered a sticker on the bottom stating the build time (march 1987) and the names of three japanese inspectors Bild: dsc00416zhn3.jpg - abload.de Bild: dsc004182gwo.jpg - abload.de
  18. Heatsinks are overrated for class A amps anyway; way more fun to run them without Hmm... those resistors look familiar - don't know about the rest however. There seem to be no obvious differences between the pcbs of your PP and my A - except for the slightly moved/shortened vertical brigde-wires and a larger cap in the norm bias circuit . Has anybody ever measured (or simulated) actual performance differences between the different revisions (ie different input fet pairs)? Or is the whole part-mania purely auto-suggestion?
  19. Would you mind going into the differences between the different SRM1 MK2 series and versions a little more, Spritzer? Reason for this: A friend and I both have said amps (his is a B, mine an A) with the only apparent difference being, that the B series seems to use fancy looking wirewound resistors (damn, lowpasses everywhere ) while the A one uses metal film types; and if I recall correctly the Q201/101 fet pair looked different as well - but I am not sure about this, got no pic of his amp internals... only of mine, see below. We never got round to compare the two head to head. Thanks!
  20. Yes, thats normal. Your Meter has an input impedance (probably 10Meg in your case), so are building a voltage divider with the output resistor thus measuring only about 2/3 of the voltage..
  21. But don't you miss anything from the technical point of view between those? To me the deep-bass of the Lambda Pro extends quite a lot more than that of the normal Lambda; but from memory (has been a few months since we compared them side-by-side) that was the only apparent real difference. Not speaking of frequency response here (that is always personal taste), just technical capabilities... Don't remember too much of the LNS, did not like their sound back when I heard them so I did spend too much time with those..
  22. There is, but you need special equipment capable of measuring the characteristic curve of electronic components for it. If you want to try listening, then go for the highs - because high esr <> slow cap dis-/recharging (lowpass) -> possibly rolled off treble. But I don't assume that there will really be an audible difference...
  23. you cannot measure if a cap is good or bad with a capacity meter. If they dry up, they might still have the same capacity but their esr rises, making them pretty useless. I'd go for a set of nice new low-esr caps on any device that has been in heavy use for a couple of years (say 5-15) and tends to get a lot of heat - even if it still performs well. Caps are cheap and maintaining those might save you a lot of trouble..
  24. So what would you do to the psu? Just swapping the old caps for some fresh low-esr types as spritzer suggested or do have more mods in stock? I've had some mods in mind myself, but without the schematic never got a place to start, so thanks for that - maybe I'll come up with something someday...
  25. The Lambda NB isn't a bad phone, but to me it seriously lacks bass extension (and a little quantity, but that is subjective anyway and can be modded in later on).. The Pro just goes quite a lot deeper..
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