Whitigir

Ah, I thought it was for @cspirou, I am using C170CKT and 402R

These seems to be a possible fit, if u do use paste, and maybe doing a better job ? Now, I wonder how do I take off the sticky double sides thermal glued to remove my heatsink....it sticks so so strong https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Advanced-Thermal-Solutions/ATS-51450R-C1-R0?qs=sGAEpiMZZMttgyDkZ5WiulqfIpz7MfcldLiKLTRn2uU%3d

The other components actually will not be as hot as the transistors. However, the heat being dissipated around the heatsink May heat up the adjacent components by a bit but wouldn’t be anything like 100C.

Thanks @Pars. To account for the IR gun differences, I think it lines up with what I am reading. These things can be cooking . Considering it performances, little form, power output. It is amazing though

I have not, but i think they are sitting 110-120C. Can anyone else confirm about this at 90 minutes?

It gotta help right ? The amp runs crazily hot here is right on top of the lowest part of the heatsink, which is closest to the trans after 90 minutes mark or so, and seem to stay at it. The IR-guns only show 70C though...strange

45x35x18mm https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Aluminum-Heatsink-Cooling-Fin-Heat-Sink-Multi-Size-Choice-38mm-to-200mm-/263051780518?var=&hash=item3d3f1ba1a6

Yes, I did, but have to unplug it and carry it where I want is a hassle. My cables are all 4.4mm it also look good :D, except that I do not have the digital printing, so I just touched it up with paint

Yes, I needed 4.4mm lol

I can not even touch my Mini heatsink after 2 hours on. It literally sits around 70C X_X Anyways, I found the brightness spikes and sizzling top was due to THAT340, as I swapped in the 3381/1349 and I got an observable improve in performances. I used Volume knob from Goldpoint which just came-in, the smallest knob, and she look awesome! http://www.goldpt.com/knobs.html

Thanks @spritzer, I am corrected

Oops! Anyways, I use furutech from authorized places is a great way to avoid counterfeit

So, after installing THAT 340 and offset dialed in with 0 ohms on, there won’t be rolling those Trans right ? I asked because mine is a bit bright up top, and I want to try sc3381 and 1349 combo

Your enclosure was perfect to boots! I love it !

Yeah, probably was meant to stay inside but I slot it into the front chassis and it is bright the THAT heatsink was bought from Amazon, but I cut them to fit. Using double sided tapes as you recommended I will give you the exact parts tomorrow Amazon seller is no longer listing this parts. I had to cut it anyways and since it was only 0.5mm thick, it was easy. The brand was BNTechGo 20x20x0.5mm. This link shall bring you to the similar but thicker one, and you can cut it to fit as well ?

Alright, after the adjustment on the pots. I tossed in all the heat sink and 0 ohm resistors and had a test spinning. The result is staggering ! HD800S sounds so wonderful and Excellent to take around ! Woaa Finally, thank you first of all @Kerry for this amazingly portable design and awesome list of BOM and so on. Thank you @kevin gilmore for the amazing cook!. Thank you @cspirou for this beautiful chassis run (it was a perfect fit every where from even the screws itself). Thank you @sbelyo for this amazing GroupBuy on the Boards and Pot which made this project a possible. Then to the last but not least, all of you who contributed into this thread still looking for the beautiful black volume knobs LoL. Also, please don’t mind that LED, I didn’t think it was that bright X_X lol

Definitely contact @joehpj for your need on the GroundedGrid, and I love that amp

L+, L-, R+ Instantly saw offset of +/-3mV without turning any pot. (Swinging back and forth) only R- was instantly -12mV, but comes down to +/-3mV in like 30 seconds or so, without touching any pot. Yes, 0-Ohms is not installed yet. That was why it seems weird to me. What did you encounter on your first cranked up about offset ? Updates: Great ! So I tuned into the pot, adjusting as @Pars listed out the channel and the Left is swinging +/-4mV and the Right is +/-5mV. It swung upto +/-50mV but nothing extremely over that. The things got Hot! I think it is time to toss in the 0-ohms and try installing heatsink and listen

Yes, I did exactly that :). So, when cranked up first time, what I encountered is alright and common ? Ok, I will warm it up and see if adjusting pot will do anything

I did the onboard reg by hot-air, and using chip-Quik paste. It turned out pretty ok, and only the jumper legs were tricky as I had to sneak-in a piece of solid silver conductor as I think it would conduct better. Needless to say, I was doing it and praying, and it turned out ok. I spread the paste by the pointy tweezers as I don’t have any stencils

So, a weird question. But I have the onboard reg working just fine. +20.11 and -20.03. However, when I measure offset, each channel line is fluctuating from -3mV to +3mV, and the R- channel started out at -12mV then come down to +/-3mV. I have not turned the trim pots or anything ? Should I be worried ? Or should I just throw in the 0 Ohms and see what coming out ? I have no SE switch in place, I don’t think it should affect anything since I am not looking to use SE input atm.

Nvm, got it. Please someone clarify on board V1.5 the 1.43M is still 160K value ? Stock board is 402 and 255. Bridging jumpers 0p2v, 0p8v, 1p6v , 3p2v . It is expected to run 20V and 14-15mA. ?

How long do they last ?

@JoaMat, thank you very much. You essentially has DMP-Z1 by yourself lol May you please share more info on the battery supply you are using ? Thank you

Is anyone running mini Dynalo on battery supply ? Sony claims that battery supply is superior on their most expensive DMP-Z1. So, I just wonder