Jump to content


Returning Member
  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by plaurids

  1. Indeed the amount of farts has no impact on the sound once the seal is established (man, this sentence sounds so wrong out of context... 🤪 ), the problem is that my 007 Mk1's farts are borderline painful to the ear and will creep in whenever I have to reposition the unit on my head, which is quite often if the set is loose and cannot maintain its fit. Wouldn't at least a large part of it amount to tuning? Technically I don't know what needs to be done in an e-stat driver such as these to change tuning, apart from the obvious (and infamous) port on the 007 Mk2 / 007A. What's objectively true is that the measured frequency responses of the 007 Mk1 and the 007 Mk2 with the blu-tac mod are still different, which shows that the port alone cannot account for all differences in that regard. Granted that the measured 007 Mk2 unit in the link above is the latest (2.9) version and hence different from my 007A (which, by the serial number, is likely from the first production run), but you get the gist. It's possible that the earpads' differences in geometry may also have an impact on tuning, but I believe it's minor (I think it mostly affects the soundstage and the imaging, supposing all seals are equally good). If I get the nerve to swap the earpads, I'll be able to somewhat settle this question (at least in my case). I've noticed a considerable upgrade in dynamics after the CCS mod on the SRM-T1S, but I do realize there are still some shackles binding my 007's with this energizer. I don't really consider using the 007 with a volume higher than 10 o'clock something normal - for instance, a Lambda SR-L407 paired with the SRM-T1S sounds fine with one hour less volume (as it should, since the latter was indeed designed to be used with the former) -, and the aforementioned limitations on both the 007A and the 007 Mk1 are evidence of that. Let's see... But I don't think these will lose too much value even if that happens, because the demand is high despite the BHSE's price. Problem for me is, these Mjölnir Audio / HeadAmp energizers never show up in the used audio market here in Brazil, and our custom taxes are no joke. Again, I'd be happy with a used KGST already... 😔
  2. You may be right regarding sense of height, I'll pay closer attention to that in future comparisons and update here after that. Also... Your Mk2's seal is better than your Mk1's? Interesting... My 007A got farty after the blu-tac mod, but nowhere as farty (or as loud doing that) as my 007 Mk1. I guess I got lucky with my 007A in that regard - its long-term comfort is flawless, I basically put it on my head and forget it's there. I'm still experimenting with bending the arcs on my 007 Mk1, until I manage to keep the set at the right position. Since the farts are so loud, it gets really annoying to keep adjusting the fit, but I do appreciate both the fact that the seal on my 007 Mk1 is so good and the augmented soundstage due to the angle on the earpads. That's why I'm still hesitating to swap earpads, also because the 007 Mk1's earpads are reportedly more difficult to reassemble than the 007A's due to the wider springs. A couple of interesting points you made above. Indeed with my CCS-modded SRM-T1S both my 007A and my 007 Mk1 get too "dark" at lower volumes (9 o'clock and lower), whereas my older Lambda keeps sounding just fine at 9 o'clock. The problem rises to 10-11 o'clock with more compressed tracks, and is somewhat worse with the 007A. This is the clearest indication that the SRM-T1S is still somewhat underpowering these sets even after the CCS mod, but I concur that this energizer is completely inadequate for driving a 007 (of any generation) without this mod. I also have the impression, after listening for a somewhat longer period, that the 007 Mk1 is in fact a tad too shouty in the high mids / lower treble at the "optimal" volume setting of 10-11 o'clock as compared to the more (sometimes a bit too much) relaxed 007A - yet another sign of underpowering. With a more powerful amp, I could probably listen to them at lower volumes (with ensuing greater sonic comfort, in the case of the 007 Mk1) without losing resolution or clarity. Which brings me to the point of which would be the ideal match. Much has been said about how well the 007 Mk1 pairs with the BHSE (that was, by the way, the combo used by my 007 Mk1's former owner); among all the expected improvements, I reckon this combo probably doesn't sound as shouty. The fact that the 007 Mk2 sounds better to you with the Carbon than the Mk1 makes sense since it's a SS circuit, however warm it may be as far as SS goes (thanks to the SiC output FETs). However, the BHSE is far beyond my budget right now (and I don't even have enough room for it due to its separate power supply), as is the Carbon. That's why the KGST actually sits higher on my wish list than the BHSE, since I still crave the warmth of the tube sound but don't want to get a mortgage and/or remodel my office for its sake. For the time being, though, I'll have to make do with what I have, so I'm trying to make the most out of it.
  3. Ok, first impressions of the SR-007 Mk1 on my CCS-modded SRM-T1S - this post will probably be updated as my assessment of the combo evolves. First of all, the physical impressions: First of all, the 007 Mk1 feels slightly lighter on the head than the 007A. I haven't weighed both units on a proper scale to be sure yet, but that's the first thing I noticed. The second thing I noticed is that the 007 Mk1 drivers feel farther away from the ears than the 007A's. This matches spritzer's assessment waay back in 2008 that the 007 Mk1's earpads are more angled than the 007A's, despite the 007 Mk1's earpad springs being wider and less angled than the 007A's. Most importantly, the earpad seal on the 007 Mk1 is much better than 007A's. As a side effect, though, its Stax farts are loud, more that the 007A's after the blu-tac mod, which makes finding the right fit somewhat annoying. On the other hand, the 007A's earpads are more comfortable and have a more pleasant touch to the skin. This may make 007A a set more suitable for longer listening sessions. I may try later to use the 007A earpads on the 007 Mk1 to see if the increased comfort is worth the ensuing change in sound, this seems doable... (edit - July 21st 2022) I found that the clamping of the headband arcs on my head was too loose and couldn't maintain the fit. Maybe the elastic band is also loose? Visually it doesn't seem so... As a result, I kept fiddling with the fit and the ensuing Stax farts were driving me nuts! Fortunately, a gentle additional bend on the arcs has improved the fit considerably - now the set seems to stay at the right position, the arcs no longer touch my head and thus I no longer have to deal with deafening Stax farts so often. Still evaluating whether the arc setup has achieved its optimal shape for my head or not, but results so far are encouraging. The set feels more comfortable now, perhaps I won't need to swap earpads with my 007A. Also considering slightly shortening the elastic band so that the set is kept higher on my head, let's see... As for the sound impressions... wow. I didn't imagine there would be that much difference. I reckon my findings below have mostly been reported ad nauseam by others on this and other forums already, but again, this is mainly for my own record and I find it convenient to have it all in one place, so I apologize in advance: The soundstage definitely feels wider on the 007 Mk1 than on the 007A. This is particularly noticeable in live tracks such as Blue Öyster Cult's "Veteran of the Psychic Wars" from "Extraterrestrial Live" or opera tracks such as Sir Georg Solti's "Don Giovanni, a cenar teco m'invitasti" from Mozart's "Don Giovanni". This corroborates my impression above about the drivers feeling farther away from the ears on the former. Instrument separation and fine sound details are more evident on the 007 Mk1, with better resolved low-volume information. Put differently, the 007A sounds darker (more details on that later). For instance, unlike with the 007A, with the 007 Mk1 I can clearly hear the intro's bass line on Metallica's "Master of Puppets" (the DCC 24K Gold remaster, of course - the standard master is obscenely compressed, as most of Metallica's tracks, a trend that got even worse in more recent albums. OK, end of off-topic rant). In the same spirit, I hear a better defined bass line on Rage Against the Machine's "Bullet in the Head" with the 007 Mk1. Imaging also feels slightly more precise on the 007 Mk1, take e.g. La Venexiana's "Si ch'io vorrei morire" and "Io mi son giovinetta" from Monteverdi's 4th Book of Madrigals, or even Bill Evans's version of his "Waltz for Debby" from the album of the same name. All of the above probably have to do mostly with the driver position and the far superior earpad seal on the 007 Mk1. One thing that's probably due to something else, though (i.e. tuning?), is the frequency response: even after the blu-tac mod, the 007A retains a slight damping in the upper mids (don't get me wrong, it gets much worse without blu-tac) which still bothers me in some tracks, especially ones with some degree of compression. I've tried to correct this with EQ, but that caused other problems that made the ensuing sound less natural to me, so I gave up that route. This problem is completely absent on the 007 Mk1 - to a fault: (edit - July 22nd 2022) after listening to it for a somewhat longer period, it comes out in fact as a bit shouty in the high mids / lower treble. This alone makes the 007 Mk1 a bit more tiring for longer listening sessions than the more relaxed 007A, even if the latter's characteristic comes at the above price. Bass still feels slightly stronger on the 007A than on the 007 Mk1, despite the blu-tac mod on the former (which controls the stock 007A's wonky bass response) and the better earpad seal on the latter, but better resolved on the 007 Mk1. On the other hand, regarding timbral quality the 007 Mk1 and the 007A seem to me so far unsurprisingly quite close to each other, and so does their transient response. You can "taste" the texture and materials of acoustic instruments (particularly guitar, bass and percussion) in a similar way with both units. That's top-notch e-stat speed for you. The 007 Mk1 feels very slightly more resolving, though, but that may be just me - I need more time listening and comparing both. To sum it up so far, it seems that both sets have essentially the same drivers, but with slight differences in tuning. In any case, these are rather minor differences if compared to the former listed above. Overall, now I get the hype about the 007 Mk1. It's definitely a superior headphone to the 007A in most ways that matter. I'm still evaluating the effect of the 007 Mk1's earpad seal and materials on the long-term comfort; it may be the case that the 007A ends up being more comfortable for long listening sessions - or not. As pointed above, swapping earpads may also settle this issue. Some claim that the latest (i.e. currently being sold new) 007 Mk2 / 007A is close enough to (maybe even slightly better than?) the 007 Mk1, with many of its earlier versions' problems having been solved, to the point it may make no sense anymore to overpay for a 007 Mk1 (see, on the other hand, how spritzer's opinion on this has evolved compared to the previous two links, to quote one example - wondering here what made him bump the 007 Mk1 above the current 007 Mk2 / 007A in his personal preference between 2018 and 2021 🤔 ), but mine was still a bargain compared to a brand-new 007 Mk2 / 007A, at least here in Brazil (especially considering it came with some Mk1 spare parts and the standard flight case - by the way, this is what the actual carbon fiber case for the very early 007 Mk1's looks like, completely different from mine) and I think I got somewhat lucky with the serial number, so I guess that's a win? 😁 As for the role of the CCS-modded SRM-T1S proper in all this, my impression is that the CCS mod together with the 007 Mk1's efficient earpad seal are usually enough to make the SRM-T1S able to drive these cans in the volumes I typically use (10-11 o'clock, depending on the source), which is good since it'll be quite a while until I can get another, more powerful energizer (if I can get it at all), which may help in a few, more compressed tracks for which I need to raise the volume to noon or higher and hence start hitting the 6CG7's limitations on the SRM-T1S's design. On the other hand (edit - July 22nd 2022), the aforementioned shoutiness of the 007 Mk1 indicates that I may be listening to it at a bit too high a volume, but otherwise I lose resolution and clarity with both 007's. This should be compared to the 9-10 o'clock optimal volume setting of the SRM-T1S with the Lambda SR-L407 and hence signals that the 007's are still underpowered by the SRM-T1S, even after the CCS mod. I may get some minor additional improvements once I change tubes to (say) some Japanese Raytheons (I have a few lying around waiting for their turn), but right now I don't feel compelled enough to do it. I've given up for the time being the idea of rewiring the tube sockets and moving to brand-new JJ ECC99 tubes, based on spritzer's recent advice on the matter. (as both a side note and a cautionary tale, I noticed an improvement in sound quality and an increase in bass response on the 007A, a few weeks before getting the 007 Mk1, after I changed my glasses - the new frame is much less obtrusive, thus affecting far less the earpad seal. However, I didn't realize the new frame was the "culprit" until the 007 Mk1 arrived, which made me understand more viscerally the importance of a good earpad seal for sound quality in headphones)
  4. Hi all, Against all odds, I've managed to get a pristine SR-007 Mk1 (S/N 71169). Let's see how it performs on my CCS-modded SRM-T1S... I'll update my impressions in the upcoming days.
  5. Whoa, I didn't know that, about HeadAmp being around HC... However, as for Mjölnir Audio, I don't remember seeing a Blue Hawaii implementation in the current version of spritzer's catalog...
  6. Thanks for the warning Pars, and sorry to all for the bad link, I'll delete it in my previous post. Using a pair of LSK170's for each channel would mean that pin 4 in each Q1 PCB pin layout (corresponding to the extra "substrate" lead of LSK389GR) is discarded, I suppose.
  7. Yeah, if you look at the picture of my SRM-T1S's internals (before recap and the CCS mod) in the first post of this thread, these are the eight large pink resistors R27-R30 (x2 each) on the upper left. These are 33 kOhm, 2W power rating each according to the schematic, and are the ones replaced by the CCS array if you do JimL's mod. Spares for these from a good brand (e.g. Vishay) and (say) 1% tolerance cost at e.g. Mouser from USD 0.85 to USD 3.58 each (the latter is the low-noise option, if that matters), so we're talking here about USD 7 - USD 29 in parts (plus shipping). As for the front-end FETs, if I understand correctly from the schematic, these are the pair of double N-channel 2SK389GR MOSFET's from Toshiba placed at Q1 for each channel, next to the signal input (more precisely, the volume pot). In this case, according to Mouser these are indeed discontinued, but as Kevin said above it may be possible to find them in stock (probably as NOS) elsewhere nonetheless (edit: or, as Pars suggested below, just replace each 2SK389GR with a pair of LSK170 JFETs - a matched quad costs about USD 30-35). If you ask me, it's worth a shot... maybe trying to replace the plate resistors first (since it's probably cheaper) and from there to these MOSFET's if the problem persists. @grawk silly me... I guess any e-stat must sound fantastic on the BHSE, of course (provided you can afford the latter)... However, HeadAmp doesn't seem to provide the normal bias option to buyers, only color options for the cabinet and two volume pot options. Since they build it on demand after each order is placed, is it possible to request a normal bias as well? (according to spritzer above, it's technically possible, but the point is whether HeadAmp will do it at the buyer's request or not)
  8. No idea. The SR-L407 that came together with my SRM-T1S is the oldest of my two Staxes, and never had any experience with an e-stat older than that.
  9. Your reservation in trying to rebias amp tubes yourself is understandable, especially in the case of e-stat energizers (which use even higher voltages than standard amps), but I assure you it's safe provided you're careful. In the case of the SRM-T1S, you can just adjust the voltmeter range, stick the voltmeter probes into the earspeaker pin sockets appropriate to the measurement to be made (that's the easiest and safest way) and turn the voltmeter on. This can be done with the energizer turned on without any problems. Please remember as well to get a fine plastic-tip screwdriver for adjusting the trimpots - I'd avoid getting anything made of metal close to the PCB while the energizer is on - and avoid touching the power supply caps (especially the four big ones). Finally, bear in mind that the trimpot adjustments for the SRM-T1S are usually tiny and the tubes in this circuit usually do drift quite a bit after the first rebiasing sessions. If even so you feel insecure about doing it yourself, you can ask a technician to do it.
  10. Hi sc351cobra, what spritzer meant is that you probably need to check the bias of the tubes since you've changed them - offset and balance are the adjustments to look at (by probing adequate pairs of output pins with a voltmeter) when doing that, and they're adjusted through a pair of trimpots for each channel. These are tiny and are best (and most safely) accessed using a plastic-tip screwdriver. A nice set of instructions for rebiasing the tubes on the SRM-T1(S) can be found here and here. In my case, last time the bias of the tubes was off, 3-4 rebiasing sessions with 1-hour intervals to account for tube drift was enough to get stable adjustments, but that may change depending on the tubes you're using and their age. The important part is to get stable measurements as close to zero volts as possible (at worst within a 15-volt interval around zero) without too many attempts - if it's taking too long to reach that, then the tubes have probably reached EOL and should be replaced. According to the SRM-T1S's manual, possible sources of distortion are too high a volume adjustment and a voltage drop in the power supply. However, both of these should affect both channels equally (supposing you are changing volume of both channels simultaneously at the same rate, as usual - the SRM-T1S's volume knob allows the user to change them separately, and I don't know how you're proceeding with that). Even if the power supply caps need replacement (which is something it's generally recommended to do about every 10 years or so), a bad power supply cap should also affect both channels equally if you are using a pair of good tubes with the same brand and age (preferably a matched pair for easier rebiasing). The fact that you are only getting distortion on one channel and the former gradually disappears as the power supply caps discharge after turning the unit off is really odd indeed. The problem I had above when doing the CCS mod shows that if there is a short circuit somewhere on the PCB by any reason then there may be some unreasonably high voltages on just one of the channels, which on their turn will cause distortion and may shorten the life of the tube on the said channel. If that's the case, it'll definitely show up in the bias measurements as unreasonably large voltage swings as you adjust the bias trimpots (e.g. well above 15 volts with even the slightest turn of an offset trimpot), and then you'll have to look for that on the signal path through the PCB. I wouldn't exclude it since you bought your unit used, but I think a bad tube is more likely. In any case, checking and trying to adjust the tube bias is the first step. If your problem doesn't disappear after rebiasing (supposing the latter is successful), then I'm out of ideas (unfortunately, my knowledge and experience with electronics are quite limited as well - I'm trying to help based on what I've learned so far). Hopefully, more seasoned people on the matter (like spritzer) may know better and provide a more educated answer if that's the case. Hope it helped.
  11. I see, thanks. Enough off-topicking, I suppose... Back to the CRBN: which DACs have you used with it besides the Denafrips Terminator, and which were your impressions with those (if any)?
  12. Also my impression. My SZ2 007A had this odd "boom" in the bass and a depressed response in the upper mids at stock config, problems which were both fixed with the port mod. Anyhow, the 007 is pretty hard to find here in Brazil - Edifier (who currently owns Stax) started selling Stax products officially here this year, but their prices are just insane and they haven't brought the whole Stax lineup yet (they are selling the 009S and some Lambdas). Particularly, no 007's are being sold (edit - November 11th 2021: I stand corrected - they've just started selling the SR-007 Mk II). I found mine used by chance at a great price, in retrospect it was a minor miracle. Unfortunately, it also means that I cannot just sell it and look for a better set - Brazilian custom taxes are no joke and the current USD-BRL exchange rate is not quite favorable right now, both of with make buying even an used 007 abroad beyond my current means -, so I have to make the best out of what I have. That's why I'm modding the hell out of my 007A and my SRM-T1S. (edit - July 14th 2022: against all odds, I've just managed to get a pristine SR-007 Mk I, with S/N 71169) With the port mod, how much up your list do they go?
  13. Ah, ok. Now, going back to my original question (duly qualified)... where would the first batch (production year 2007-2009) of SZ2 Stax SR-007A's fit in your top 5 list (if at all, possibly with the port mod)?
  14. That's what I thought, judging from my research in these forums... But maybe I wasn't clear enough in my question: which of the two SZ2 batches of SR-007A's are affected by this "bad behavior" (I do know there is an SZ3 range of serial numbers in between), and what would that "bad behavior" be? Does the port mod help? Thanks!
  15. I understand people complain particularly about its soundstage, which is indeed not very deep, but I like it - I use it connected via XLR (balanced) to my SRM-T1S. With the SR-007A it feels very intimate, as if I were standing where the microphones are. It also serves as a very good IEM source (it works great with my Moondrop Blessing 2 using Spinfit eartips and Dunu Blanche cable) when for some reason I cannot use the SR-007A (e.g. when my hair is wet). I was able to get some (admittedly minor) improvements using iFi's DC iPurifier to clean the power source and the Oyaide Continental USB cable instead of stock. I haven't tried its parametric EQ yet - haven't felt the need for it. I may get the Denafrips Ares II or the Chord Qutest in addition to the RME ADI-2 DAC in the future to get a different flavor of DAC. Wondering how these would sound with the CRBN...
  16. "Bad behavior" for which SZ2's, the old ones or the new ones? Mine's (for instance) serial number is SZ2-1636, got it used in the beginning of this year. Seller didn't buy it new either - I had to replace the headpad's elastic band since it was worn out, otherwise the unit is in fine shape. I reckon it's not very recent, but I may be mistaken... I did the port mod because the stock frequency response was somewhat wonky (bass a bit out of control, depressed upper mids), but that was before I did the CCS mod on my energizer. I've covered the Blu-tac filling the driver ports with a fine tape because it was sticking to the pads. The port mod evened out the frequency response and made the cans quite a bit more enjoyable.
  17. If you port mod an SZ2-serial number SR-007A (say), where would it fit on that list? 😁 Also, thanks for the feedback on the ECC99! Regarding sources... Have you tried it with the RME ADI-2 DAC?
  18. Good to know... Would adding ECC99 tubes to a CCS-modified Stax SRM-T1(S) (say) improve things with the CRBN at higher volumes?
  19. For the glue on the Audezes, I guess so (never had one). Isopropyl alcohol doesn't work so well on the earpad adhesive for the Stax Lambdas, though. Believe me, I tried. However, since the casing is all plastic and the earpad gluing base is so close to the drivers, it's not advisable to use anything else, so one has to make do with it anyway. A lot of patience and care is needed to remove the black gooey, tar-like glue residues without touching the drivers - the former just seem to stick everywhere on the outer case.
  20. In due time: I was thinking... Indeed the CCS mod doesn't address a design flaw of the SRM-T1(S) which causes this loss of frequency response at higher volumes - namely, the fact that the 6CG7/6FQ7 tubes are driven slightly over their maximum voltage spec. It rather addresses a greater flaw which is the major loss of output current in the plate resistors, precisely by replacing them with constant current sources as done e.g. in the KGST. To fix the former flaw as well, some people have also proposed to use e.g. ECC99 tubes instead of the 6CG7/6FQ7 (which, in this case, requires some rewiring of the tube sockets and replacing the cathode resistors in series with the TVR2 trimpots), which have a higher maximum voltage. I did the CCS mod on my SRM-T1S a couple of months ago (I wrote a detailed account of the process mainly for my own use in this thread, as sort of a field journal) and it really did wonders on how my SR-007A performs on that energizer. I'm still using the stock Gold Aero 6CG7 tubes and gauging whether it's worth to do the ECC99 mod or not - I use the volume at 10-11 o'clock as it stands, which is enough for most of the music I hear (classical, choral, jazz, blues, rock and metal), but I do need to go higher occasionally e.g. with some particularly compressed tracks (quite a few rock recordings have that problem), and then I notice the SR-007A doesn't perform so well. Of course, the recording itself may be also to blame for that since these cans are quite revealing of poor recordings (especially with the port mod I use), but I could be also hitting the tubes' limitations on the SRM-T1S's circuit design, I'm not sure yet. So, suppose one has a Stax SRM-T1S energizer with the CCS mod and ECC99 tubes. Will it then be enough to drive the CRBN, even at higher volumes?
  21. Hmm... Good to know. I'm taking the Stax Lambdas as my only former experience with this issue - it's a freaking nightmare to clean the glue residue from old earpads on these. But still... a flagship headphone such as the CRBN ought to have something better. I've read that Audeze's new planar magnetic flagship LCD-5 also has glued earpads. Seriously, even a relatively old mid-fi dynamic headphone such as the AKG K701 has plastic bayonets for the earpads. This can be done without compromising the earpad seal, and makes maintenance and modding far easier.
  22. Let me just mention one minor thing that does bother me about the CRBN, though... The earpads are glued. Why Audeze, on a $4500 headphone? Especially an electrostatic one... I know spritzer reported that the earpads do seem solid and may not need replacement for quite a while, but I did have to replace the (also glued) earpads on my L407 recently and it's not fun at all.
  23. That's the ultimate reason I ended up doing the CCS mod on my SRM-T1S. In stock configuration, it was a good match to the SR-L407 that came with it but it definitely underpowered my 007, to the point I started hitting the well-known difficulties with higher volumes spritzer alluded to above. Things are a lot better now, also considering I'm currently unable to afford a BHSE or even a KGST (custom taxes here in Brazil are no joke). Likewise, the CRBN is pretty much out of reach for me right now but one can always dream... That also raises an interesting point. Hi-end dynamic or planar magnetic headphones usually need a (more often than not similarly priced) suitable hi-end headphone amp to drive them at their best. It makes absolutely no sense to buy a Focal Utopia or an Abyss AB-1266 Phi TC and then plug it straight to an iPhone or a mainstream DAC, when you can get close enough results on such devices spending about one order of magnitude less. Of course, you can also do it with such headphones, but then you'll leave so much refinement on the table, you are no longer doing it for the sake of sound quality but rather of something else. If you take that into account, the estat proposal of always factoring a matching amp/energizer into the cost+practicality equation no longer seems so absurd at the hi-end level.
  24. Audeze CRBN + Mjolnir Carbon... Of course Audeze would do that 🤪 Jest aside, very exciting breath of fresh air on the estats market from Audeze, although the price tag is no jest at all... Given spritzer's impressions on the CRBN pitted against the Stax SR-007 (by the way, I do have to commend his bravery on taking the former apart) and the north-of-$6000 price tag of Stax's new flagship SR-X9000, I'm now thinking how much of a "steal" (as far as hi-end estats go) the 007 has become. Still, I'm quite intrigued by the CRBN, but $4500 for a headphone is way out of my league. Head-Fi's YouTube review of the CRBN claims that it's relatively easy to drive, which clashes with spritzer reporting it above as "intentionally inefficient". Just to have a better idea, how does the CRBN fare against, say, the 007 regarding amplification demands? If I put a CRBN on, say, a CCS-modded SRM-T1S (as the one driving my port-modded SR-007A SZ2 right now), will it be enough?
  25. I've found the culprit. A tiny solder blob which seems to have landed out of nowhere was shorting two solder points in the CCS module's PCB. Removed it, resoldered the module to the unit's PCB... and presto! Left-channel voltages back to normal! Phew! Rebiasing with the stock tubes took a couple of hours (3-4 rebiasing sessions with about one hour in between to wait for the tubes to drift). I'll wait a couple of months to see if it's worth it to start tube rolling. In the meantime... Currently testing my SR-007A with the newly recapped and CCS-modded SRM-T1S. Amazing! It seems a straitjacket was removed from the cans! The CCS mod really makes a difference.
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.