cetoole
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Posts posted by cetoole
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The real way to do it is to crack open the express, and replace the audio daughterboard
Yes, this has a decent shot of working, cutting the existing traces to the USB jack, removing the audio board, and wiring the usb pins which had been feeding the audio board to the USB jack, in a manner which doesnt completely screw with the USB wiring standards. We know that at least older versions used the PCM2705 for the audio board, so it would be fairly simple on these, but I have heard, though unsupported by photos or anything, that the current expresses use something else. Also, since the thing is sonically welded together, you would have to recase it afterwards, instead of just closing it back up. Well, maybe duct tape would work.
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Those are some beautiful speakers, cant wait to see your take on them Steve.
Updated rankings:
Koss ESP/950
Modded Yamaha HP-1, modded Yamaha HP-50A and YH-3, modded Fostex T20 (v2, x2), Balanced deep woodied HF-1, HD580 (HD600 grills) and MB Quart QP400, then K701, Pioneer SE-700, and stock Realistic Pro30 all together.
The first three dynamics are actually pretty darn close to the top three ortho flavors really, though the ortho group is pretty solid in it's own rankings. Those three dynamics are better than all the orthos for some things, but I think I enjoy the ortho group just a bit more. Hard to tell, depends on the music and my mood as much as anything. The ESP/950 though, man, it is something else entirely.
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Time for Orthodome #4
Nice, got the build planned yet?
Office shots:Mike, how does that keyboard/mouse work out for you? I had the same thing for my work computer for about a month or so, and ended up going back to wired. Just couldnt deal with the missed keystrokes and mouse tracking, and this wasnt even for games or anything, just porn homework and internet.
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'nother vote for Nate here.
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I'll add that I've heard a few really shitty sounding K340s. I think that due to the age of the headphones, how they've been cared for has a lot to do with the quality of sound.
Any guesses what is causing this? Dying electret element maybe?
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Looking real good there. I dont think I have ever seen a 10" full range driver before, though of course, I havnt looked too heavily into speaker DIY, as I dont have the workshop or skills to pull it off. What is the expected FR of these when in your cabinets? I guess the bass should be nicer than the little FE127e I am considering doing something with.
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That piqued my interest as well, but I'm wondering if he's optimizing the analog stage for them individually? Curse my curiosity with DHTs
\Depends what you mean optimized. To my understanding (reading what is on that page+some information posted by Gordon Rankin on diyhifi), he is using the Sabre in voltage out mode, with the mentioned Magnequest transformer converting that to SE, and then I assume following that with the DHTs, taking the output from the plate. No telling what kind of ratio the transformers have. Of course, this is mostly just assumptions on my part, so any/all of it could be wrong.
Oh, before I forget: Dew Eet!
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Seems you can also now get the Wavelength Crimson with the ESS Sabre now too, called the Denominator module. Bit pricey though, but I would definitely be interested in hearing it.
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Happy birthday reks, all the best.
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No stain, natural wood. Must be a good amp!
Not sure I would call plywood natural, but hey, you are Dr. Wood, you would know better than I.
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Nice Nate, looks just fine as-is. For the next project, how about a Karna?
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Nightingale - Nightfall Overture. Just showed up from Sweden, and of course, had to give it a spin.
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I had a profoundly crappy day at work and as such when I got home it seemed ill-advised to work on a project for someone else that could end up being thrown and relative high speed into a wall. So, with those qualifications the Simple was about the only thing heavy enough to prevent hurling. I set about wiring it up in simple triode mode which took about 2hrs. About 10 minutes ago I flicked the switch and it's still here, I'm still here, and Joanna Newsome sounds pretty outstanding. Pics tomorrow, although they're pretty boring unless you like internal wiring shots.
I fucking LOVE internal wiring shots, post away!
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Why not?
Modded Yamaha HP-1, modded Yamaha HP-50A and YH-3, modded Fostex T20 (v2, x2), HD580 (HD600 grills) and MB Quart QP400, then K701, Pioneer SE-700, and stock Realistic Pro30 all together.
This is purely on the basis of sound, overall including stuff like comfort would look a bit different. Hell, the dynamics might even have a fighting chance!
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Ditto and one of the reasons why the T-50 ended up on the FS forums. I can't do this on ear nonsense anymore...
Exactly! That is the whole reason I have been unwilling to break ~$100 on orthos, but would have sprung for Steve's Donuts had I been fast enough. Loving the sound, but man, the ergonomics are killing me.
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I have had good luck with Justsnipe, using the free service. It limits you to 5 snipes a week, but that isnt a big deal here. I just tend to forget to bid otherwise, so really prefer to just snipe everything I am going to bid on.
So, unannounced network outages, I thought those were usually frowned on, even if it isnt expected that anyone will be working.
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Ok, ok, ok, so I should be working on other stuff but I made an interesting discovery this weekend. When the power is off, you can still use a battery powered drill and hand operated tools like chassis punches and such. So, with that in mind I figured the chassis fab on the simpleSE was about the only thing that I could actually get some work done on. You should have seen the look on Lily's face when she found out I was working on it again, oh wait, I got it on film...
Anyway, so I got 99% of the chassis fab done this weekend and decided tonight, as the lights started to go on and off again that I'd install everything and see what the results looked like. I'm pretty happy with how things came out, there are a few things I'd love to have done better but with the tubes installed you'll never see them.
And just a couple quick shots of the capacitors that I got in today, which literally dwarf the caps that I'm using on the Simple. The caps on the simple are roughly the size of a can of Coke for real world scale.
Not sure when I'll get to temp wire the Simple and test it out since I still plan on painting the chassis to cover at least some of my sins of fabrication. Maybe this weekend if mother nature doesn't decide to stick it to me again.
Awesome Nate, definitely your best DIY project yet!
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Production of the Fostex T20v2 that you heard was stopped in 2006, though you can still get them. I bought 3 off of a studio in PA, almost got another 6 dirt cheap from another studio in Annapolis, MD. There is a current production T20, but it is much less desirable, and has a completely different driver, though still an ortho. They definitely need an amp. I have put up to 1/8w into mine at loud, but still listenable levels.
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Smeggy, want the stock HP-1 cable I have kicking around here? It will work better than no cable, but that is about it.
Thanks a bunch Steve.
What does the ortho snob cognoscenti think of YH-3s? There's a pair on the 'Bay that I have my eye on.I like my YH-3 and HP-50A, though the guy I loaned the YH-3 to feels they arnt nearly bassy enough. He much prefers the Fostex T20, though he hasnt touched the damping I had in either headphone, which makes a big difference. My YH-3 and HP-50A are both extremely heavily damped, using what we have come to know as the HP-3 bass heavy scheme, with thick wool felt and cashmere. The transients are incredible.
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From what I remember of my time with the PS-1, all of my orthos are more comfortable. Maybe one of the other Grados, possibly with different pads, would be a different story, but I just havnt had enough time with them to tell. Kinda doubt it though, as I have always hated the texture of the grado pads. For orthos, I have Yamaha HP-1, HP-50A, YH-3, 2x Fostex T20v2, and a Realistic Pro30
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Hmmm, given your most recent statements I'm having second thoughts. First things first, you could try posting a WTB thread at Head-Fi for an M
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My understanding is that the main difference between DDE v1.2 and v3.0 is the output stage. The 1.2 has a pretty traditional opamp setup, while the 3.0 has a funky passive I/V, discrete buffer, passive multipole LPF, then opamp stage with discrete output buffer. 1.2 does the -6dB attenuation in analog, by changing the gain, while 3.0 does it in the PMD100. Here are schematics for the DDE v3.0, but I have never seen ones for the 1.2, so all my information on that one is hearsay.
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I am with luvdunhill, if the v+ is off when testing without a normal load, I wouldn't be surprised at all. This regulator has a pretty low level of gain, so will have a non-negligible output impedance. Plus, then you have the tolerances of the feedback resistors, transistors, and especially the zener diode or 9v battery. Besides, if you are at 29.66v, instead of a "normal" 29v, that is really just over 2%, and wont make a significant difference. If you really must trim it though, R10 and R11 are the regulator feedback resistors, and adjusting either of their values' will change the output voltage. I wouldn't try doing this before the rest of the circuit is in though, and really, probably would just leave it be anyways.
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Post the last thing you bought!
in Off Topic
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Congrats! I thought about it, and made an offer, but am basically glad you got them. I havnt heard a T30 yet, but I am completely happy with my ESP/950 now. I still love all my orthos, and they will remain my work headphones for the foreseeable future. Of course, the T30 look too open to be suitable here. Great driver in there, nice and big. Keep us updated on how you like them.