spritzer

Happy Birthday old man....

There are also the crazy Cardas ones but anything which connects pin 3 to pin 1 will work perfectly.

Yup, a bit smaller than the 727. Just finished a couple of them...

So true... so true.

The 009 isn't any easier to drive, it's just slightly more sensitive.

Well the fakes may become better but throw it on a tester to be sure. If it is a 900V+ PNP then it has to be real. Not many other options ever made.

The socket is a part of the chassis so not a separate thing. There is this though... http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a230r.1.14.37.JGGGcS&id=43478963769&ns=1&abbucket=2#detail

Yes, it is better to run them at their recommended setting of 10M.

Yeah, no way to shut this one off.

Mess around the with the cathode resistance a bit and you will null the offset. I just picked a value that was close enough for that plate load. 100R should be plenty.

That and double box. Always double box...

Yup, untested.

Mine are ready for testing but other stuff has taken over for a while. Might even be pushed back further for the new Megatron PCB. As for SMD, if you want resistors that are equal to the RN60D's then they are 1$ each or even more. SMD was never designed for HV in mind...

That's just so many levels of stupid. Was the intended goal of this design to copy the RSA A-10? I'd love to know the distortion that phase splitter is spitting out. Too tired to run it in simulation.

Using SMT resistors will make it much more expensive to build.

It will take a lot of work to make that right. I'd just return it as so much of the resale value is gone. This isn't a Cavalli amp after all...

Your friend is a clueless fucking idiot.

Yup, it's EOL and with plenty of K170's out there it doesn't make any sense to use them. I still have a couple of hundred of them so they might find some use...

Well articulated bass it is not, more in the boom, boom style of the King Sound. What they did though is to move much more air to make up for the baffle or rather lack-thereof.

The volume knob is press fit for the front half but the back is fixed with a grub screw. Take off the front panel and you can access the screw and fix it in place. The rest is all shipping damage but Stax amps are very easy to damage in this way. Flimsy aluminum that needs to be supported properly. The baffle is the crucial aspect of all dipoles so the pads are indeed a part of it here. Well that would also include the head as this is a sealed baffle design.

Yup, no matching needed.

Happy Birthday John!!

It must be in the Swedish water...

The transformer will add noise. Only way around that is to switch to an R-core and isolate it. Won't be perfect but it will help.

That is very cool indeed!!