spritzer

If you want to try and fix anything...then there is this: Jecklin Float amp.... Epic clusterfuck.

It can be improved but why bother, just build a KGST.

Bypass the Elma and see what happens. Those switches are notorious for corrosion and connection issues after a few years.

Yup, that is correct.

Yes but the heatsinks are extra...

No info just yet...

Self-destruct....

If you aren't scratching your head wondering how this will all fit then DIY is just too easy. On that note, a mini Carbon is in the works...

It hasn't shipped yet which is good for me.

Good point. A KGST psu and transformer could be used with the +15V just driving the power LED. A bit more opulence just for the fun of it...

It would also be easy to use the PSU built on the KGST boards. Just use a LM7918 and use a diode to lift up the ground for -19V or so.

The Bourns 3590S are excellent and not too expensive.

Mine came from RS components. They have a huge stock so just find one which is the closest size to your preferred IEC.

Wire is almost always rated for AC. My plan for this was always to use two umbilicals, one which carries DC and the heaters (which are mostly DC anyway) and then a regular powercable to feed the amp box transformers.

I think most caps should be ok due to the rubber pad they sit on. The snap in caps don't have this but still be careful. I think you might run into some problems with seven transformers inside the amp section. Ideally you should have two of them, each with two 6.3V windings just for the CCS tubes. The rest should be in the PSU box. Also EI cores are the worst when it comes to magnetic fields which is why I'm looking into R or O cores for this.

I'm not expecting any profound difference, it's mostly that we can do away with the current limiting and that the amp will be mostly SiC fet. Including the rectifiers...

Wasn't is always 2.9? I dunno... Should be the latest from Price Japan but this is a Mk2 unit and a Kiwi one at that.

You would be surprised by how warm our houses are. Every house you walk into is at 20+°C so being Iceland doesn't really matter. Well that and my amps aren't built for use in Iceland...

The Carbon does sound pretty amazing with the 009. You can also pretty much run it indefinitely, it's so stable that it isn't even funny. No wild swings of the KGSSHV here and the servo keeps it at 0.2V. I do like the 007Mk2.9 most of all though. The more I tinker with them the more I like 'em. Gone is the soft top end of the Mk1 and then there is that bass... That awesome bass... I need to find one of my SR-Omegas too and see how they like the Carbon.

Just drop the current a bit in the CCS. There are 300R resistors right next to the main heatsinks, change those to say 400R or something like that. Btw. There is a reason why my amps have a completely open top and holes in the bottom.

It's always the price point that comes to play here. In truth they are just different, the BHSE isn't inherently better in every way.

Already did that but not the volume control. No easy way to do that except with the Shallco switches.

But...but...but... they sound better??

The filament for the front end is 6VAC with one leg grounded so CT can't be used there. I wouldn't connect the CT on any of the other ones either. That would end very badly... If you want to run at either 12V or 24V then you have to mess with the traces and the heater center tap. 12V is with the center tap floating and one leg of the heater grounded. 24V is the same except it has two heater elements wired in series.

Looking past channel matching, almost all volume controls will limit dynamic range by their design. Only crazy stuff like the Ayre KX-R design avoids this.