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spritzer

High Rollers
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Everything posted by spritzer

  1. Do not ground the high voltage CT!!!!!!! That's what you are doing wrong. It's only there for transformers for high voltage windings with CT's where we would use the entire winding for the single supply.
  2. That is the + output side so you shouldn't get - anything there
  3. Happy Birthday Tyll!!!!
  4. They are being driven off the +/-15V rails so anything above 25V works just fine.
  5. He also quotes the fucktard David Mahler as some sort of a source for information on headphones and whether they are any good or not.
  6. Yup and on the KGDT it's used to change the current on the CCS.
  7. I do what I can to lift your spirits...
  8. Waiting on some 1N914 diodes (my stash from 2004 finally ran out) but the KGDT if just about ready for testing: Shown next to the new KGST boards, a smaller version of the group buy boards. The difference is not great but I had to shave off a few millimeters to get them into a chassis I bought.
  9. Just not suitable in any way. If you go higher than ca. 150Vp-p then bad things will happen to the TakeT. The crappy components inside the capsules can't take much more than that.
  10. They are a direct match but check the pinout. I would match them personally but the amp will function without matching them.
  11. No.
  12. Is that the Accuphase fanclub?
  13. GBU810 is fine for this and no need to match anything except the input fets if you are using single units.
  14. The 1uf cap has to be 25V+ so anything with 15mm lead spacing will work. I use 250V Panasonic caps which fit perfectly into the footprint. Kevin posted the part number either here or in the KGSSHV thread. The 100nf caps should be rated to handle the B+/B- plus a bit of headroom. We've normally used 1000V caps here but 630V also works. The rating of the input fets doesn't matter, just as long as they are the same grade on both channels. I normally use LSK389 B series and BL grade 2SK170's. Now that the BL units are almost finished I'm moving to my GR stock. Here are the heatsinks, big one for the CCS and pass transistors: 532-530002B02500G and the small one for the 10m90 CCS in the PSU: 532-581002B02500G Remember to order the proper insulation pads, shoulder washers and you also need 6/32" screws (either nylon or peek) for the small sinks.
  15. Forgot about that particular bit of madness.
  16. The balance pot should always be 2K but the offset needs to change with the voltage. Last one I built used 1K pot and 1.37K resistors at 400V but 1.5K should be fine at 350V. This resistor has to be 1/2W and higher wattage doesn't hurt as it gets hot. 24V is better so use that. Those are the correct LED's. Yup, we forgot to change the zener string values.
  17. All amps sound the same -Peter J. Walker
  18. Parts on backwards, pads screwed in place, pads backward and the spring missing.
  19. Yup, that would be the fart. Could be worse that usual on that set. I've seen some massive stupidity recently with the 007's and replacement parts.
  20. Alcohol works unless the diaphragms have suffered some sun damage so they are too fragile. Also look for oxidation on the bias contacts. That was 4+ years ago but I probably just copied what ever Stax did on the + input.
  21. I didn't do the final layout of the that board...
  22. Yup, those are fake as with most of these things from Dalbani.
  23. Around 1300Vppss and the gain is 500/1000 Edit: An updated on the KGDT is in order. First run of PCB's is here and I'm assembling them when I find time from the other 12 amps I'm working on...
  24. Lack of anything relevant for a long time now means nobody cares about EC. A bit like Ray in that regard. Pfft who needs fets when we have bipolars...
  25. It's hard to fix something like that. It's simply Stax caught up in the "OMG this new film is awesome" BS so hopefully they will make something less glaring next time around.
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