spritzer

Since this has been discussed a lot lately, which Mk1 is also quite important as they got progressively worse over the years. They kept simplifying the assembly, the design and the materials used. So the first sets sound the best to me and my personal set is a early 712xx but fitted with drivers from 7002x. There was a major change to the design sometime around the 71xxx mark (ca. year 2000/2001) with new materials, new drivers and a bunch of small changes but they weren't as good. With the SZ1 things got worse and the 007BL is by far the worst of the lot. Not sure why though but the Euro distributors all complained about QC issues and the sound being inconsistent. The truly odd bit is that some of the later sets sound as good as the early 71xxx units but some sound not all that good. Very odd...

The SR-Omega second only to the 007. The Omega is a bit loose around the edges so the bass is a bit overblown, the treble a bit too wild, the soundstage isn't as well shaped as it could be but as a whole it is stunning. They really do require a BH or a T2 to work perfectly though.

The 007 always wins...

That's how I do it if I have enough conductors in the umbilical. Otherwise I just starground on each side with one shared link between them.

All the time, Jacob is too cheap to spring for a radio... If it is mono FM then it could be picked up in some form.

That will drive you mad with loktals. Huge problem with the smaller pins...

I'd leave them open and look for shorts on the boards.

This should be here, Kingsound M-10 internals: http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/dsc_0425.jpg http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/dsc_0426.jpg http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/dsc_0427.jpg Hello Stax SRA-12S/SRM-1 Mk1 clone done very badly. B+ 588V and with a very stupid bass boost circuit. Again the PCB is supposed to act as a heatsink, not the best idea in the world.

Trafo this close to the volume control will cause problems.

Gotta love that plate cap not connected to anything.,..

Paid the extra shipping owed.

My post reference was aimed at complin and not you. Now what we really could need at some good new Stax amps. The p-p figure is easy to determine based on the plate voltage and the tube parameters (Rp mostly) but that said, it doesn't really tell the whole story. Most of these amps can't be adjusted for max voltage swing for the particular tubes installed so it can be a ways off. Speaking of whacky Stax amps... I've been cooking up a plan for a while now to make a tiny one. Just got some boxes and they are 150x90x45mm (D, W, H) and I'm going to try and cram an Egmont in there... Transformer and tubes on top but the rest has to be crammed in there. XLR's are too big so this has to be RCA only...

Check out post 8317... The SS is stator to stator so pretty much p-p. That thing has to be pretty much the same circuit as the M-20 and I posted it some pages back. Not a bad circuit but 2400€? Ehhh... no....

I prefer to use a hammer but yeah, that is possible. The problem with the Mk1 pads was the foam as it just didn't last long enough. It would get too soft and then the pads were useless. My Mk2 pads are fine after 5 years now though so a proper improvement for one from Stax.

Aren't the brown pads just the same stuff as they sold for the Mk1? If they come in a nice EP-007 box then it is something different but otherwise it's just the same old pads.

Only thing I'm concerned about with Kerry's boards are the STN9310 temp given what I'm seeing in the onboard amp. Might need to add some more area for heatsinking but only actual tests will verify that. Give me through hole parts anyday so I very much doubt this is going to happen.

Yup, better replace everything.

No, makes very little difference.

Depends on where you buy it and what specs you ask for.

Exorcism?

Yes, good photos and you checking the soldering a few times to make sure everything is ok.

To drop the 20V use a 13.5K series resistor, a 390K to ground after that and then the 5M ballast resistor.

That is just odd. You could always transformer couple the source but that is maybe going a bit too far...

Have you quadruple checked all the parts? Same fault on both boards is either PSU related or the wrong part on both boards.

The new HVk PSU board? It is 6.92" by 6.56 and the distance from the back of the transistor to the edge is 0.563014" give or take... So both boards are like this?