spritzer

It was on Y!JP but you have to know where to look. No way that the transformer would survive driving the ECC99's. It's run on the edge as it is. You can put the output resistors directly on the socket. They are simply there to limit the output voltage should any of them short to ground.

The schematics will be posted and some measurements but don't expect some fancy AP graphs like the one on the Cavalli site which break the laws of physics. One thing off the top of my head, the PSU has 20 times the noise of the KGSSHV unit and drifts all over the place. That's the good part of the amp though... I was changing the amp to 230V yesterday and decided that horrible knob had to go. That one I got from Justin... I do think that this issue deserves a new thread so I'll probably start one later. I'll also include new impressions based on some time with the Omegas, SR-X Mk3 Pro and the SR-003. The last one was not a pleasant experience. The output capacitance of the amp is roughly 7 times that of the headphones. Edit: I've also found one major safety issue with the LL. Complete fuckup and goes to show how clueless these idiots are. Think ballast resistors rated at max 250V running at 600V. Under normal conditions this isn't a problem due to the open circuit but if the bias shorts to anywhere this is your only safety mechanism. Also, no output resistors on the amplifier. Not a good idea... I never bothered to draw it up but this is what it looks like: http://www.op316.com/tubes/schema/image/stax-srm1.jpg Just fill in the values. Stax never did packages back in the day. Some distributor may have bundled something together but the first official combo was the SR-5NB/SRD-7Mk2 in a cheap plastic container. 1N4007 works just fine, nothing eating up 1A of current in there. I would double up for a full bridge but that is optional. Those are the output caps btw. and I always replace them. In vintage Stax news I bought that SRA-7S in Japan. A lot work to repair it but a perfect match for my SR-1's.

I don't think I could sell this one to be honest. It's just too bloody bad...

T1 is just mehhhh. Not good... not bad... it just sits there but not in a good way. The 727 is not doing the 009 any favors though. Pretty much the same as the steaming pile of fail on the top of the rack here... So when I'll make it useable, should I change the color of the power button and the knob? I'm thinking silver with amber led's... Frank Zappa - Dinah-Moe-Humm is utterly unlistenable on bass light transducers. Nothing but out of control bass...

That's a lovely box you have there. Good point. We need Kevin to start work on some stronger, non conductive screws...

Haven't touched it after the initial mod. Not sure if anything can be done with it to be honest. Steaming pile of shit that one... I anybody knows about a good BJT that is 800V or more in a DPAK package I'm all ears. Low output capacitance is a must have.

Ohh so true. Give me BJT's or give me death!!!

Ok, I think I've found a good set of earpads for these and they were dirt cheap, the Brainwavz HM5 pads. They were a bit too small so some force is needed to attach them but the material is quite nice and they are very comfy. The sound seems to strike the correct balance so lively yet about as neutral as they can be. The really good bit... they cost 17$ shipped for the pair.

Well the schematic being wrong doesn't surprise anybody, this is Stax after all. They always leave errors in the schematics. This amp was also in production for a long time and during that time semiconductors came of age so to speak. Ohhh and you can still buy the design today.... it's called the KingSound M-10 and is fucking awful.

Happy Birthday!!!

Most excellent as I just got way too many of these boards.

Yup, that and the - voltages all over the datasheet means PNP.

This shit is like tuberolling, people want to do that on the fly as well.

No, scrap that. I was working from the second oldest version of the PCB and it didn't have these changes. Now I see what Kevin did... All the parts labeled A should not be used with IXYS parts.

Not sure why that LED in the corner is labeled A... shouldn't be. Uninsulated diodes on the HV are not recommended. I'd remove them and fit the correct ones, the ones printed on the PCB. Ohh and one more thing, never... ever try to change the feedback with the amp running.

Time for an update. The well worn SR-007 pads were an upgrade but made the bass too anemic. Distance from the driver and the chamber size being the most likely culprits. It's more linear but just... too bland. Today I got the W3000ANV pads and they are lack a bit in comfort compared to the 007 pads but I can live with it. Mmmm leather... The sound is better with them too, bass has a bit more bloom and the top end is smooth. Still these have serious issues and that echo/phase issue hasn't been resolved. I'll probably have to take the drivers apart which is not something I look forward to.

Well my MSB is not DSD upgradeable so this would work for me. That said if I'd care about DSD one bit...

They are optional so feel free to leave them out. The smaller layout is completely the same as the bigger boards.... just smaller.

Yeah,,, missing 20K units would make no sense as it sets the output voltage. 3900pf should be 1000V or more.

Could be worth a shot to ask these guys: http://www.garrard501.com/

Well this was in 2003 and they were cheaper back then. The Ti knob has been done, it's on my T2.

You can do that if you like smoke rising from the amp.

Truly not sure how to fix this as there is no space to work with or any good through hole pads. A first glance I thought they had stacked two 300V supplies as that would make perfect sense. Then I saw it had just two diodes...

400V or 450V will work and two PCB's? No but you need to modify the one PSU to output more current.

That was the point.