spritzer

Needle-nose pliers and brute force. \

Seconded!!! I'm sure as hell not going to do it...

I can't be sure what's going on there. Certainly could be the amp but first job for any SR-Omega owner is to buy some allen (hex) metric keys so that you can make sure the housing is firmly fixed together. No Stax headphones vary that much!!

Most of the old Stax phones had one of the three screws covered like that to keep people out of the headphone. Yeah... did you look closely at the amp? 3/4 of a Woo GES to be more exact but only fucked up with bad tubes for the job and some "tweaks" for 4 times the price. We both know how much that "preamp" is worth...

Ditto.

Woot, comparisons against T-50v1 FTW!!!!!

1k-2k$ for the chassis isn't a bad deal but we simply have to make it in that gun metal gray. I will continue to search.

It is intended as a partner amp for the SR-404LE but they always do that with the stat's EH still makes them so that shouldn't be an issue. The ECC99 is a much better tube for the job though...

Happy birthday!!!

They are the same and WPI is indeed using the old Amphenol tooling

We really need some BH vs. WES comparisons.

Didn't ML use that stuff for the updated versions of their gear? You will get a full report.

The HE90 driver is quite big but according to the pics from Senn, the diaphragm isn't that big. I did measure the drivers once but can't for the life of me find the measurements... The Jecklin drivers are bigger at roughly 100mm square. His unit had all the usual issues, a single filament supply, outputs at 100v and iffy build quality but far from the worst I've seen. As for buying an ES-1, are you nuts!!!!??!!?? ... The T2 and KGBH would both be excellent matches and I preferred my old BH with the Omega over the 007 (which liked moar powahh!!!). Never got a chance to try the hybrid with it though...

They are certainly in my Top5 and yes, the driver is 90mm across. Here is what it looks like on the inside:

200$ per PCB is certainly not out of the question. 100+$ for basic stuff from China... I'd really like a black solder mask with gold immersion and 4oz copper to go with the 24 leds per channel. Perhaps a different material then FR4 too since this is a crazy-go-nuts project after all.

That set has the stock drivers.

It's not like we are running a fancy headphoneampcomanythingy... Just got the first quote... these boards aren't going to be cheap.

We've been sourcing parts all day long and I'm going to send out for some quotes on the PCB's later tonight. We are definitely moving forward...

I'm fine with it.

Now you make me want to find yet another SR-Omega. I do need to find a broken set to see what makes them fail...

86-71-6S is actually the male plug but the picture on the Allied site shows the back of it. You stick the wires through the plug to solder them.

There were close to 250 units made but exact numbers are hard to come by. The prices varied quite a bit in those days since Stax changed dealers in the US quite often just before they went bust. A few of these sold for 6500$ with a SR-Omega back in 1995. In the more stable markets in Europe it cost 7000€ and with a SR-Omega it sold for 9000€. The Japanese prices are even more stable since there has been next to no inflation there in 15 years, a SR-Omega MSRP was 180kYen and the SRM-T2 was 468KYen. The SR-007 Mk2 is the first price increase of and Omega set since 1993. Stax know that we have the schematic and would like us to keep it under wraps so that's how it will be. They are fine with a couple of DIY amps though.

The heater current does appear to be the same so why not give it a try. Just measure the transformer temp to see if anything strange is going on. I do think that 6S4A's are the best option since they can take 500V easily...

Ditto on all accounts.

It just shipped from the US yesterday so I haven't even seen it yet. The SR-Omega is long gone and I just have a Mk1 007 here. I should have had a Mk2 arriving soon but it was damaged prior to shipping so I will get one later on.