spritzer

The Egmont is pretty simple with a floating output stage with no ground reference so it should sound better then a Stax amp but the sound will change a great deal with the tubes as they age and change. Also paying 1400euro for something like that is just nuts. I watched the thread about your Egmont adventures with excitement but like so many before, it disappeared. That's what I would do as well.... .... .... it's also wise to have a record of payment for the declared amount as so two Paypal transactions would be wise... You need a push pull amp and you tap into the signal at the primary of the output transformer so you need to bypass it (or turn it off) and then put a capacitor on each phase and even a resistor bridge to create a 0v point between the + and - outputs. It would also be wise to put a resistor in series with each cap to limit ultimate current.

Deus EX was one of the best games ever made IMO. I really need to play it again while I wait for no.3...

Thanks for clarifying that. I say they are badly designed as the electrostatic amps clipped and behaved in bad manner, something even the HEV70 isn't guilty off...

Even though you had good results from dealing with McAlister you are the minority. Badly designed and built amps that are really still in the prototype form and not ready for a public release. He could get better though while the other two are just getting worse...

It's a bit harder doe to their dipole nature but if non accurate measurements are find just measure between the drivers. If you want to be hardcore buy a Head acoustic headphone measurement dummy head...

The 10mOhm is simply the size of the bleeder resistor for Sennheiser headphones. Not recommended for Stax usage as they work best with 4-5mohms

Hmmmm let me think... .... insane prices for what you get, really bad build quality, horrible circuits that Rudi barely understands himself but are so simple a child could build them. For 10k? I'd expect something more then a 12ax7 tied to EL34's. Heck I'd just buy a Dynaco 70 and put in a new input stage and have a similar amp... for 500$... Talk to me again when you reach 30 phones and have to find a way to store them all...

You can even find RK50's on ebay of all places....

You'll buy them some day, thats all that matters. It's so nice to know what speaker you are going to buy and keep for the next 30 years, not like those dynamic idiots that drift from one coffin to the next.

Rudistor is crap because he is a crap designer and the build quality is beyond horrible. There are many broken Rudistors out there but you can of course not talk about that on HF. Add that to the pretty bad parts quality and high costs and they have nothing going for them. File with McAlister and Ray under "buy if you have no sense or don't know any better".

You should be fine with a 400v voltage swing. That has nothing to do with the bias.

It is mostly SS so no wonder it needs to warm up. The Blue Hawaii is pretty crummy for the first 3 hours but then begins to shine. It's all about the voltage so it's really the gain that is important. The transformers are so horribly undersized that they don't need all that much current.

The Stax amps aren't really taxing so it could be well past 10000 hours. I think I'm close to that on one of my sets and they still sound great.

The tubes are so cheap that I can't be bothered to shut it off. I guess I'll be burning through a lot of tubes once I get my tubed CDP...

I would stick with the 006t and upgrade further to something like a KGSS, KGST or WOO GES. I do prefer the T1 and it's really good when it's been powered on for about 3 days and more. The SRD-7 need so little current that they will be fine with less than a watt but the amp should have more headroom so 3-5w is sufficient. I'll be getting a Dynahi soon and I'll outfit it with Stax transformers just for kicks...

THe RK50 is in a league of its own. It's the standard pot in the Kondo preamps and the upgrade is a huge Shalco switch with hand made silver resistors. Costs something like 3k$...

Thats an understatement...

There were some slight changes in the 12 year lifespan of the SRM-1 Mk2. The boards were slightly altered, components upgraded and the internal wiring upgraded to the PC-OCC stuff used in the T1. There were also 4 different versions of the SRM-1 Mk2, normal bias only, Pro with one pro bias socket and one normal, P.P. with two pro sockets and ATR with two pro sockets and a stepped attenuator for the pro market. C with a very high (5500>) serial number should be the best

They can be if everything else is equal as thicker diaphragms give the bass more thump and an open backed SR-lambda does plenty of that. The fiber glass muddles it up a bit though

No they aren't. I bought a large lot of them for about 30$.

Ohhh, I called it after the page name but DC tube driver will do just fine. I'm going with 0A2's and the sockets for them should be here soon. I like pretty lights... Then I'm only short the 6H30 tubes...

I was a bit worried that you had a Lambda Pro Classic as they are often sold in Germany as the real thing. I like the Pro Classic/Spirit though, maybe even more then the normal Pro's. The Normal Lambdas are even better at doing the rock thing with the 2um diaphragms.

The Head3 design is pretty simple to build if you opt for NE-2's instead of the 0A2's. A lot less space is needed and the 0A2's plus sockets are more expensive.

Here Just use any PSU you want but the Blue Hawaii unit would work. I'm slowly gathering parts for this one and I'll build it one day.

That is a good design and is the same as Woo Audio uses in their Woo GES amp. There are a lot of Stax amp designs out there but most of them are in Japanese. The Tubecad design is also pretty good and simple and a little more interesting is the other Gilmore tube design.