spritzer

Yup, try that as a number of factors you have to factor into the offset string. The value is based on my builds which are very different to the boards from the group buy.

That's even less comparable.

The move to ever thinner diaphragms is a fallacy IMO as there is nothing that really justifies it. Stax are lost in their PEEK films now but the SR-Omega at 1.5um or the 007 at 1.35um aren't bad. I'm also sure they aren't using mylar as there are simply better materials out there now so any comparison simply based on thickness is completely moot. That said the resolution of the new 007Mk2's is simply stunning. Too bad they have to spoil it with the stupid port crap.

Yeah, you need to measure it as there is no way to tell from the outside if those tiny wires are intact.

Nope. just for my use.

The price for this so wants me to make a one off amp just to fuck with them. Take a solid block of brass and carve it out. Then have a blurb that says that the brass actually shields while the marble does fuck all. Solid titanium knob as it is nicer than plated brass. Tubes proudly relabled in Iceland. (as we don't want you to know who actually made them).. etc...

I was dealing on that scale... I'm going full steam ahead towards custom everything with as much of if as is possible being made here in Iceland. Only the best will do for the new Carbon CC...

Well it does give us some data. Either the phones and amp "talk" via active circuitry or there is a load in there which must be present for the CPU to engage the output relays.

Fischer are excellent though. They also do what ever custom stuff you'd want for a price.

I'll check as that's the only bit I actually care about. It helps to have a distributor that basically lets me do what ever I want.

That would be my guess as well. No way to alter the charge on the diaphragm in a constant charge setup (and it won't sound all that hot if it is indeed conductive) so a smaller gap would be plausible. The HE90 uses somewhere around 0.4mm given the fondness of driver issues so this could be similar. Both the HEV70 and the HEV90 used +600V supplies cap coupled to the stators.

Probably just a current limit on the PSU controlled by the CPU which runs all of the amp. It would be hard to run any sensing into the headphones.

That would indeed be my concern. That's why I have MSB stuff as they have been around for a long time and do care about the older tech.

Well we would just design a new amp for them. Not all that complicated and gold plate the fucker... The 8 tubes is just nuts, what could be possible be using 16 triodes for? The Octave, Aristaeus, HEV90 have 12 which includes the output devices. My problem is with the whole "less capacitance" malarkey. Can anybody find a DPAK or smaller mosfet with truly low Cob? The Toshiba BJT 2SC6127 would be perfect for this but not a mosfet...

It won't be cheap so well worth opening them up and see if the thin wires that go from the cable to the drivers are intact.

Cool, you can move my last post too Dan as it is for the new Orpheus.

They have to be doing push pull so not Class A but yeah, there is no substitute for current.

Check the Stax thread...

Thanks. Not a whole lot of stuff left but I might sell T2... In true Icelandic tradition I'm spending way too much on this so yeah, it would help...

I get a massive discount but even then I'm out as I just bought a house.

I have some issues about all of this besides the retarded price and the utter certainty of the amp being shit. First off is having the amps in the earcups, good idea in many ways but mosfet output? I don't know of any SMD mosfets with low output capacitance which is crucial. 200pf into a 50pf (just guessing) will make this sound worse than the Cavalli crap and that says a lot. Before people jump to and say that Sennheiser wouldn't do that... well they did in both the HEV90 and the HEV70. Sure it was the tubes in the 90 but still the same applies. I have the strange sensation that I will change one of these to a bloody Stax plug in the future so it can be driven properly... Going by the stuff I get asked to do all the time it wouldn't be a shock.

Try one thing first, try to hit the offending driver with some force and see if that fixes anything. Also ground the pins on the plug. Just touching them helps dissipate the charge.

Yeah, get a 007Mk2 and report back...

Just get a super cheap scope (Rigol, Siglent etc.) and some HV probes. Compared to the cost of the amp it costs next to nothing.

That's proper insanity!!!