spritzer

It won't be cheap so well worth opening them up and see if the thin wires that go from the cable to the drivers are intact.

Cool, you can move my last post too Dan as it is for the new Orpheus.

They have to be doing push pull so not Class A but yeah, there is no substitute for current.

Check the Stax thread...

Thanks. Not a whole lot of stuff left but I might sell T2... In true Icelandic tradition I'm spending way too much on this so yeah, it would help...

I get a massive discount but even then I'm out as I just bought a house.

I have some issues about all of this besides the retarded price and the utter certainty of the amp being shit. First off is having the amps in the earcups, good idea in many ways but mosfet output? I don't know of any SMD mosfets with low output capacitance which is crucial. 200pf into a 50pf (just guessing) will make this sound worse than the Cavalli crap and that says a lot. Before people jump to and say that Sennheiser wouldn't do that... well they did in both the HEV90 and the HEV70. Sure it was the tubes in the 90 but still the same applies. I have the strange sensation that I will change one of these to a bloody Stax plug in the future so it can be driven properly... Going by the stuff I get asked to do all the time it wouldn't be a shock.

Try one thing first, try to hit the offending driver with some force and see if that fixes anything. Also ground the pins on the plug. Just touching them helps dissipate the charge.

Yeah, get a 007Mk2 and report back...

Just get a super cheap scope (Rigol, Siglent etc.) and some HV probes. Compared to the cost of the amp it costs next to nothing.

That's proper insanity!!!

The input voltage could also be too low for the regulator.

The patent is the usual blowing of smoke involved with these things claiming they've done something which is unremarkable and 50 years out of date. Par for the course really.

No, Safewash 2000 but in a spray can which turns it into foam.

Minimum 18AWG for the heaters. Those current limits are free air and at serious loss. You don't want that in a 6.3V heater line. I used 1000V rated SPC wire that I twisted and then insulated all the pins on the plugs with 600V heatshrink. I hate doing this though which is why I'm trying my best to cram a Megatron into a single chassis... For the flux I use a foam cleaner from Elecrolube. Spray it on the boards and let it sit for a minute or two. Then brush them and then rinse under a running tap. Let them sit for a couple of days to dry.

I would just swap them out as the meter presents a load and then the zeners could be acting up.

The phones plus amp are actually 3.8K$ once the introductory pricing is over. That's a shitload of money for something that runs for just 7 hours.

That's what I did when I modified the board for my use.

They will but not by that much. Has to be the wrong zeners in there.

Pretty much...

Superglue for this is not a great idea. Polyurethane based glue is what most ESL manufacturers use as it bonds the two pieces properly together. Don't use graphite coating either, just get some LCD cleaning kit and spray the solution from there. Most work a treat.

Higher bias when loaded like that is normal on the SRA-10/12S.

They would have some big seals on either side of the drivers to keep the moisture out of them. That and a very well insulated cable and cable entry. I would also look into not doing a constant charge setup for a role like this even if it means slightly higher distortion figures. I also have my doubts about how they are dealing with the backwave.

They claim it took 3 years just to design the cable when it appears to be just a ribbon wound up in a circular shape. I guess Shure don't excel at project management...

The price is retarded and having Jude try and shill them is just sad. Well not for Jude as we all know he's a cunt but rather for Shure as they might have something good here. The amp has to be better than the POS KingSound are calling a portable amplifier... I do feel the sudden urge to make a super tiny KGSSHV and throw some batteries and a couple of DC to DC converters on it.