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Part Sourcing Assistance/Advice Thread


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I don't know if this will be a good topic or not but what the heck, I'll shitcan it later if necessary. Basically, the idea is to post if you're having trouble sourcing a particular part. Not one you forgot to order, but something new that perhaps you haven't used before and you'd like input on.

Example (and the reason I started this thread):

I'm looking for an IEC module that contains a voltage selector switch. So far I've found 4 that I like, which I've listed below.

#1: Digi-Key - 603-1149-ND (Manufacturer - 10SB3S)

Pros: simple all in one, filter could be a plus

Cons: voltage selection is not user friendly, don't need the built in power switch

#2: Digi-Key - 603-1144-ND (Manufacturer - 06AK5)

Pros: much better voltage selector

Cons: i hate snap in modules

#3: Digi-Key - CCM1375-ND (Manufacturer - PE0SSS000)

Pros: good mount, good voltage selector

Cons: don't need the switch

#4: Digi-Key - 486-1090-ND (Manufacturer - 4301.0001)

Potentially perfect, just not entirely sure how the voltage selector works. I read the data sheet and probably need to do so again.

Anyone have any bright ideas other than me sitting down with the Digikey catalog for a few hours?

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Never underestimate the obfuscating twats on diyaudio I asked a question regarding Kemet vs. Vishay-Polytech tantalum-polymer capacitors (since the Vishays are considerably cheaper and appear to

Started one last night, actually.

there needs to be a Mouser Prime service

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Cons: voltage selection is not user friendly, don't need the built in power switch

Cons: don't need the switch

I can't offer much on the particulars. But, I can say that from a safety perspective, I really like the IECs with a built in fuse and switch. It is all I use anymore. 2 less things to worry about.

And, I'd think you want the voltage selection to be a little user unfriendly -- it is not the sort of thing that should need to be changed more than once, maybe twice, over the life of an amp. Probably better it not be changed accidentally.

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And, I'd think you want the voltage selection to be a little user unfriendly -- it is not the sort of thing that should need to be changed more than once, maybe twice, over the life of an amp. Probably better it not be changed accidentally.

I completely agree that the actual action of changing the voltage should be difficult (not something that could be bumped) but on the flip side I want it to be easily understood so the user doesn't struggle trying to figure out if they're doing it correctly. I'm also torn on the idea of the selector being tied to the fuse drawer.

I also understand your point about having that switch on the back side for safety, it wouldn't bother me to have it back there even if I used another front panel switch to take care of powering the amp.

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I've had good luck with Schaffner products. They seem to have two lines with voltage selectors that may be worth checking out: FN390 FN370

Thanks, I'll take a look at those and see what I can find and I've had good luck with their products as well.

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I can't offer much on the particulars. But, I can say that from a safety perspective, I really like the IECs with a built in fuse and switch. It is all I use anymore. 2 less things to worry about.

And, I'd think you want the voltage selection to be a little user unfriendly -- it is not the sort of thing that should need to be changed more than once, maybe twice, over the life of an amp. Probably better it not be changed accidentally.

Good idea for a thread Nate. Re: the Schaffner FN370, I just ran across a surplus site with some of these (and they don't seem to have a min. order?).

Doug: Any particular IEC with switch and fuse that you like? I seem to prefer 5x20mm fuses these days, but not a requirement.

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Doug: Any particular IEC with switch and fuse that you like? I seem to prefer 5x20mm fuses these days, but not a requirement.

I've been using the Schurter DD11 and DD21 (for PCB mounting) lately. I can't say they are any better than anything else, but they are what I standardized on. The one problem with them is that the fuse drawers are sold separately. This is not inherently a problem, but it always seems that only Mouser will have the IEC while only Digikey will have the fuse drawer, or vice versa. I've never managed to get both from the same vendor. Note that these don't have a filter in them -- if I want a filter, I'll usually do it separately.

http://www.schurterinc.com/pdf/english/typ_DD11.pdf

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Got link? Digikey has some of both series but they do get spendy quickly.

FN-372-6-6Amp Power Entry Module / EMI Filter fused-Electronic Surplus Inc.Offering obsolete IC's, discretes, motors, relays, switches, pots, and much, much more! Always looking for your excess inventory.

If you search on Schaffner, there are a couple of other variants as well.

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Did you order the one I linked or another? I just placed an order for a couple of things. I notice they have really nice pricing on Bourns 3296W trimpots, and some 3299W values as well. Some stuff they aren't so good on though.

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Did you order the one I linked or another? I just placed an order for a couple of things. I notice they have really nice pricing on Bourns 3296W trimpots, and some 3299W values as well. Some stuff they aren't so good on though.

I ordered some of the ones that you linked (too cheap not to) and some of #3 that I listed above from Digikey. I'm sure one of them will work for the particular project I have going right now and the others will get used at some.

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So I ordered these thinking that they were going to be New Stock as listed on the website and what showed up were clearly used pulls complete with solder on them and bits of wire. Not a big deal for my purposes but still, don't tell me they're going to be new if they aren't. I called Electronic Surplus this morning and they were very easy to deal with and said they'd look into it and if new ones are available they'll send me them and if not they will contact me to arrange something else. This is the second instance of great customer service I've had in the last 2 days. Also, if I get the replacements I'll send out a couple of the used pulls to interested parties.

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Here's a crappy update, turns out that the Corcom modules that I bought are not what I was looking for. While they have a "voltage selector" the type of setup it is intended to be used with "jumper type applications"? What the eff is up with that? If I wanted jumpers I'd use jumpers... Pretty pissed off right now as I can't see anyway to adapt these and get them to work as I'd hoped.

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Nate,

Looks like you want the X Dual Voltage Selection rather than the S, so something like a Corcom PE0SXS000 rather than the PE0SSS000 you ordered. I see they also have an interconnect module which connects all the rear connections for you.

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Yup, that would be the correct part number. Or course neither Mouser or Digikey carries it, in fact Mouser lists it as obsolete. What I'd really like to find now is the X version fuse drawer, since that appears to be the only real difference between the X and S parts. I spoke with Digikey, they don't carry it. :(

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Kind of a weird/stupid question and I feel like an idiot asking but do you guys know where to best buy screws, online or otherwise? I am in need of some for various headphones, a Lambda Sig as well as my Concept CE-H. The screws needed are both pretty tiny and black. Also, what's the best way to redo a stripped screw hole?

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I have used all three, all were quite good. For more general screws I need in larger quantity, I often go ebay. As for the other issue, if it is really bad you could fill the hole with epoxy, drill slightly small, then tap.

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I need some additional help as well. I ended up getting several of the FN-372-6 modules and for the life of me I can't figure out how to wire one with a dual primary trafo so that it supports 120/240. I've poured over the data sheet and I get what the wheel is doing and what is connected at the various positions but it just doesn't seem like there are enough connections to make it work. The first person to explain it well enough so that this idiot with both a dual primary trafo and also something like a Hammond 300 series universal primary trafo will get a couple freebies in the mail.

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heh, when the switch is closed, it looks like A-F and a-e are all shorted? WTF? Is that diagram indeed correct? If not, I have an idea on how the switches would have to be configured for it to work. Can you map out A-F and a-e when the switch is in either position?

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