What I don't understand is what compels you to sell it? I bought a GLite + DPS three years ago (Sept 20, 2005) and I have not for a minute considered selling it. Well, until about a week ago when I got my Quads, and now am in need of a preamp out. I'm either going to mod the GLite, or buy a GS1. Even if I do the latter I'm not sure I could sell my Glite.
Six of these:
15 Amp, 125 Volt, NEMA 5-15R, 2P, 3W, Wide Body Duplex Receptacle, Straight Blade, Hospital Grade, Self Grounding, , Back & Side 8 Hole Feed-Thru Wired, Nickel Plated Brass Strap, - White
Thanks for the replies. The Porter Ports are reasonably priced, by the standards of power products directed toward audiophiles. That said, I am completely unsold on the merits of cryo treating, especially for power components. I spent a bit of time digging around the Leviton site Jeepster linked to, and found what suits me. The "One Stop Buy" online store has these for $10 each.
The store also have a variety of hospital grade plugs, but I'm going to resist the urge to start making my own power cables at this juncture.
The two receptacles in the wall by my computer and assorted audio equipment are both quite poor. They're at least 25 years old and don't hold plugs well anymore. I'm looking for some quality replacements. I balk at the idea of paying $100+ for boutique audio outlets, but I don't want $3 pieces of junk either. There must be some middle ground in the market. Any suggestions on brands, models, and where to look would be muchly appreciated.
Woke up at 5 AM, not by choice. Wondered why I'd been dreaming about demons possessing elaborately carved antique wood flooring. Wrote an old college friend an email while I waited for the contractors to arrive. Discussed the schedule for installing a new side door in my house with the contractors. Agreed to let them tear off the remaining clapboards on the lower part of the south face so they could check for any any other missing insulation and ...something else.
This afternoon I moved two empty bookcases and a small mission shelf, as well as the top to a case clock. Emptied the books out of a three section double-wide mission style stack bookcase set. Briefly entertained the idea of moving the said stack bookcase to the newly-emptied space. Realized what it would take to shim and level the case, and said the hell with it.
Attempted a half-hour nap.
This evening I took apart the two part audio rack next to my computer, including the APC UPS. I managed to keep from shutting down my computer by moving the APC around like a shuttle. My back is telling me this was not a good idea. While I completed this process, and later re-wired my rig, I caught up on The Daily Show using my housemates computer and my Quads.
Now am I sore, tired, cranky, and thinking I need to buy a GS1. What will I do with my GLite and DPS?
Yes, I'm pretty familiar with DoF vs. focal length, aperture, and subject distance. My point was more that I know how to get the results I want out of my 35mm prime, but the 85mm continues to beguile me. I'd not put up with it if it didn't have such gorgeous bokeh.
Wow, that's one sweet looking darkroom you have set up there. I have a tentative plan to convert the downstairs bathroom in my house (already in need of serious renovation) into a darkroom next year. I forget, what kind of film do you shoot? It looks like you have plenty of elbow room for medium or large format negatives there.
Edit: I forgot to post a picture. I cheat and use HDR for clouds:
Widescreen edition. Normally I am very careful to crop my photos in a specific apsect ration (3:2, 5:4, square) but for this shot I decided to have a little fun with it. I didn't have a tripod, so I set my camera on a fence post across from the field. Made with three exposures in Photomatix, and cleaned up substantially in Photoshop.
Did you mean Audio Research uses solderbrite boards, or lays their PCBs out by hand? In my admittedly limited experience with Audio Research products I have observed them to be suitably tank-like. I have never opened up an AR product, nor would I know what to look for on the PCB. I can't imagine AR using a PCB process that corrodes after a decade, especially given the operating temperatures of most of their kit.