GeorgeP

You will need to move your PSU board forward to make space for the transformers. And have you tried fitting the amp board with the brackets? Might want to double check that it will fit (and whether there is space for you to use board mounted XLRs), looks like it from here, though (as long as the brackets line up).

It is correctable. And i love how the seller on head-fi has soldered the output wiring block backwards on the amp boards - that is some cramped space between the wiring block and the front plate...

What board version do you have? That chassis would have been made for the shorter amp board with different transistor spacing and the quads of tubes are slightly closer together. Full size amp board does not fit. PSU board is pretty much the same so no issue there. Now I will be harassing you...

Who knows. All that seems clear is that for the past 3-4 years this fellow has been selling all of Lil knight's parts and builds, including the stacks of T2 PCBs from the failed group buy. Now he is selling the very T2 chassis set from the failed group buy. Also based in Viet Nam, as was lil knight. But then again, could be totally unrelated.

Hey, would you look at that. It looks like the over $10,000 that lil' Knight ran off with has actually been put to good use producing T2 chassis and boardsets. Didn't recognize it at first: And it would appear that you can buy these over on Head-Fi, available in different colours. Glad to hear that Tran isn't dead....

It looks like the back plates are missing - maybe because they did not fit given the length of the amp board. Unless they used the shrunk amp board, I can't see an off the shelf heat sink working.

The DIY T2 is the improved version of the Stax original. From what I understand, the newer/other versions that for example Joamat and Kerry have made are not necessarily improved versions of what Kevin did, but rather use some more affordable and more easily obtainable parts. I suspect that the interest in building this newer version will still be limited as the newer parts probably only shave $300-$400 off the parts cost of building the T2 - and since it would still remains a mega-buck build, what is an extra $300-400? And it is inevitable that those newer parts will soon be hard to find as well.

Guessing that is the case because if you want to build a T2, you can with the existing boards (albeit with a higher parts cost). The only thing I could see that might be worth while updating would be the power supply, but even then.

Joachim, let me know if you need any j79s, as I have a healthy supply.

Guessing all the (fun) experimentation has over time totally conflicted that J79...

They were in the gerbers, but Kevin might have corrected them. That said the error was simple to correct (and is documented in this thread). I do have one of the blue amp boards before the correction - almost too high quality with 4oz copper and very thick boards (you need a good iron to work on these boards).

Yes, his first run full-size boards were not the greatest if you had to do any desoldering.

The lil knight shrunk board has one or two small board errors that can be easily fixed, but the amp board really isn't much smaller than the original (about 1/2" smaller), and the psu board is basically the same as the original. Also they use the same parts as the original diy boards.

hmmm, I thought that that boardset was a work in progress and never completed... maybe Kevin will recall.

Added just now - thanks.

Yeah, that has fallen aside a bit. Would SumR be ok with you, because I was originally thinking of doing one with Paul Houlden, but apart from the high shipping cost (I recalled he wouldn't ship more than two sets in one box from England to Canada), I did a buy with some other folks a couple of years ago and we were about 6 sets or so and the savings was only about $15-20/set. As well, I had him make me a traffo for the Carbon that became the loudest buzz monster I ever heard after a couple weeks of use. That said, I never had any issues with his T2 traffos, so don't know what to make of it.

Just checking if there is any interest in the original Kevin Gilmore boards. The boards fit the original KG DIY-T2 chassis perfectly (group buy for chassis was a little while back). Will be using Custom Circuit Boards. Not looking to do a big group buy - just looking for 2-3 additional interested folks to get pricing to be reasonable (for 6 boardsets it is $204.16/set, for 7 it is $189.30/set). Will be placing the order in a week or so. So just shoot me a pm if you want a boardset. Edit: Order placed.

Newark has a the SIC MOSFETs in stock.

If you are looking to spend in the neighborhood of $5k, then go BHSE (which is about $6k or thereabouts, all in). If you want to spend less than $4k then look to the myriad of KGSSHV carbon builders out there, or pick up a used one for even more savings. But none of the above answers are wrong (except maybe getting the T8000).

I suppose there are two possibilities - 1) your JJ tubes are out of wack and you set the batteries taking into account their faults (and the sylvanias are fine), or 2) you need to look for a new tube reseller because this one is no good. I find a lot of resellers only test one side of the dual-triode, and I have seen some dual triodes measure new on one side and poor on the other side - this would cause problems in the t2. Not saying that is what happened here, but what you described shouldn't happen if the tubes are good. If your tubes are good, you should be able to switch them without having to make any adjustments to the batteries. The only time I have had an issue was when the two halves of the dual triode were not reasonably close. And in answer to your email, I have had bad tubes in my t2, but nothing where the bad tube took out any transistors.

Fair enough. By "they", I meant stax, but just wasn't sure about the 6922. They certainly used 6dj8 tubes, as did a number of folks here if one were to search through this thread. Maybe the 6dj8s will expire sooner than 6922, but I have had no issues with NOS Matsushita 6dj8 and 7dj8 for at least 4 years (I also used 1980 JAN Philips 6922, but found the amp to not be as quiet as with some other tubes).

Weren't they using both 6922 and 6dj8 at the same time?

I always get confused by this whole some 6ca7 tubes are pentodes (relabelled EL34) and some (the fat bottle Sylvania/GE) are beam tetrodes. Not sure which was the intended one for theT2. But if there is cheap current production source of tubes that sounds better than all the new production "el34" tubes, and doesn't blow up the t2, then colour me interested.

Use 10k pot to adjust to 6.55v across the 22k, then use the 2k to adjust the rest of the way - do this for the ones you already set as well.

Sent you an email on this a couple weeks ago - you don't use the 10k to get to around 740, you use it to adjust the voltage across the 22k resistor. Otherwise you are basically doing it with your eyes closed.