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(closed) Dynalo Mini enclosure group buy


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Edit: I've started collecting payments. Information is here

 

Enough people have expressed interests where I am organizing a group buy. Here is the link to the spreadsheet to register interest and what you would like. I can also include mounting hardware for the XLR jacks and other parts.

 

I plan on going through enclosuresandcasesinc.com and using their 175DT desktop case. I priced a custom length 6.8" case without any cutouts or finish and it was around $30 each if I bought at least 10. Currently getting a quote for machining and anodizing but it doesn't seem so bad if I get enough people. Here is what I've drawn up. Let me know if there's any egregious errors

dynalo_front_TKD.pdf

dynalo_front_Alpha.pdf

dynalo_rear_encl.pdf

dynalo_top_plate.pdf

dynalo_bottom_plate.pdf

The red text just indicates what I'd like laser etched, it doesn't mean it will actually be red. I'm in for 3 cases. If i get at least ten then ill edit this post and start a spreadsheet.

Latest revision, 1.5

dynalo_front_TKD_15.pdf

dynalo_front_Alpha _15.pdf

dynalo_rear_encl_15.pdf

dynalo_top+bottom_plate_15.pdf

PDFs with vectorized fonts

dynalo_front_TKD_15_vector.pdf

dynalo_front_Alpha _15_vector.pdf

dynalo_rear_encl_15_vector.pdf

Edited by cspirou
Added vectorized versions
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As mandated, for legality purposes...

Yes! Look what came in Just got done with a test fitting    Everything fits just as well as the prototype and and still reasonably compact. The finish isn't perf

I think you people will be rather pleased with what this group buy had gotten you, and mucho thanks to Gael for organizing/laying it out/and running it! Still screwing around with fasteners and m

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Interested in an Alpha. Maybe two if you get the price down to $30 per case.

Edit: Aesthetic preferences: delete "SuSy" and move the "Dynalo" label to the upper left of the front panel.

Edited by gepardcv
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15 minutes ago, gepardcv said:

 

Aesthetic preferences: delete "SuSy" and move the "Dynalo" label to the upper left of the front panel.

I also wanted to mention that I'm not married to the text layout or font. If someone wants to get super fancy with it I'll update my PDFs accordingly. They also provide silk-screening as well so I could do that instead of laser etching.

I did place "Dynalo SuSy" in proportion to the golden ratio, i don't think anyone noticed.

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I have interest, what are the currently available volume pots? I don't know if I should choose the tdk or alpha version.

I would say that anodising after machining provides the best look. 

Edited by MASantos
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I updated the drawings of the front and rear to include the enclosure mounting screws. I haven't heard back on my quote yet. However the 175DT is also identical to one offered by Context Engineering. It wouldn't hurt to get a quote from them too and I wouldn't need to change my drawings at all.

6 hours ago, MASantos said:

I have interest, what are the currently available volume pots? I don't know if I should choose the tdk or alpha version.

I would say that anodising after machining provides the best look. 

Both the TKD and Alpha potentiometer are hard to get. The TKD is a bit better though and could be ordered in small quantities. Its much more expensive too.

The Alpha cases in this group buy are really only for people that managed to get pots from me for the first group buy. I could check with Alpha again to see if another small order is possible.

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Recieved a quote and the prices look really good

Cutouts with no anodizing and no text

(1) $158.65

(10) $50.39/ea

(25) $45.84/ea

(50) $43.82/ea

 

Black Anodized & laser etch

(1) $298.65

(10) $67.39/ea

(25) $59.51/ea

(50) $57.49/ea

I will go ahead a make them all black anodized with laser etch. If we get a lot I can start requesting other colors. Spreadsheet will be updated later.

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That looks really good in terms of pricing. I liked johnwmclean’s design in terms of the lettering/symbols. My preference would be for black ano with white or natural aluminum (or laser printing).

Another concern is fasteners. For the fr/rear panel mounting, are these threaded or is it possible to use a std. threaded fastener (4-40, M3, etc.)? Or do they just use self tapping screws? I would prefer something that could take a std. fastener. I also strongly prefer using stainless steel hardware.

Additionally, it appears that the top/bottom panels are screwed on? This could be an advantage from the FPE profiles in that you don’t have to take the whole thing apart to take the top off, for example.

Their website leaves a lot to be desired in terms of images of completed enclosures

If it is decided to go this route, I would be interested in 3 cases.

Thanks for all of your work so far on this!

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

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@Pars

Neutriks use self tapping screws. I know because i bought standard M3 screws thinking they would be fine and it didn't work. If you bought the plastic A-type XLR jacks you'll need Plastite screws.

http://www.neutrik.com/en/xlr/xlr-chassis-connectors-accessories/a-screw-1-8

If using the metal B-type XLR jacks as in Kerry's BOM you'll need the Taptite screws

http://www.neutrik.com/en/xlr/xlr-chassis-connectors-accessories/b-screw-1-8

Both are available at Mouser. The IEC uses standard M3. Not sure what the RCA jacks use so I'd appreciate it if someone can figure that out for me.

I like the screwed lid too because I can swap with clear acrylic to showcase the inside. It wouldn't be too hard to make myself since I just need to drill holes. With FPE I would need to mill the edge.

@gepardcv

I asked and they indicated that as long as the total reaches that number then I would get the price. The only difference between the two is G and H so it's the same work really. So 25 TKD and zero Alpha would be the same as 14 TKD and 11 Alpha.

Anyone know what the best way is to ground the chassis? Do I need to add another hole for the rear panel just for grounding?

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Updated the spreadsheet to reflect the prices I was quoted and added columns for Neutrik screws. I don't assume everyone used the metal XLR jacks so just go with whatever was used in your build. Each Dynalo Mini needs 6 screws.

Take note that the quote was for the exact numbers I asked for so it could actually be better. If we end up with 15 total enclosures the price will be somewhere between the quote for 10 and the quote for 25.

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[mention=431]Pars[/mention]
Neutriks use self tapping screws. I know because i bought standard M3 screws thinking they would be fine and it didn't work. If you bought the plastic A-type XLR jacks you'll need Plastite screws.

The screws I was referring to are those that put the case together (front panel, rear panel, top and bottom panels.


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