sorenb

deleted /all-ready answered

is that really all you have to say about this build? in all fairness John's build seems like "the best" build Carbon shown on the forum - there has been others fine builds, but not as exquisite as this.

exquisite ... must be the "state of the art" build!

did you check continuity in rgrds to the lt1021 socket like @GeorgeP suggested? or clean up and resolder the joints before replacing sand?

@wink I guess @Dusty Chalk points to that no-one actually pressed the "Like this" , and you might miss a comma after "it"

Wank away, just don't do it behind the bike shed, as people mentally retired have zero tolerance and will take care of you

ohm test the amp boards HV+ - GND, and HV- - GND , around 250kohm-ish as far as I remember ...probably a short somewhere

check you CCS'es if they are putting out what ever you aims for 18-20mA, if you still have the problem you probably need to adjust the tail resistor a bit

being lazy?

No. If there are any shorts I expect you to have found those already? I suspect bad joints rather ...too much solder can hide a bad joint ...I would clean up the the joints and re-solder those before beginning to replace parts ...

@MLA can you please add a column to the sheet for shaft length? I'd like additional length as well

Can you please try to clean the joints in the psu-amp with some wick and re-solder those not using too much solder?

meaning?

they are in parallel ... but it does call for a better picture of the entire board

Have you checked that you didn't mixup the PNP/NPN's?

Heads-up. I assume regular mail (no tracking, no sign-off). Please let me know ASAP if you want other option at [email protected] (remember your head_case ID)

you might poke around the amplifier then ... check the ksc5026 ...too much solder can hide a bad joint Do you have 10V on each side? (base of both ksc5026) ....check the two 390k resistors and the .047uF cap

Remove the load from the PSU, and start from there ... sounds like the current limiter kicks in

when did you move?

Did a short run of isolations tests on the pcbs I have at hand (Carbon v5,v6, circlotron driver board) , they all seems to do +1kV fine (including one from Spritzer, in all fairness)

Oh, you actually tested the Group Buy boards and didn't tell the result? at least the pads don't fall off the group buy boards ...

In other words Kevin doesn't know how to layout a board? The quality of PCBNet boards a way better in comparison to the boards I got from you anyways..

As I respect the findings of Insanity, I took my Carbon apart. It is different from most here, as I have used boards from Spritzer that features a ground plane (like the board from the GB Carbon V7). The ground plane should just make things even worse. Anyways, good news is that I found NOTHING, nothing at all ...I have had this amp running almost 24x7 for about a year so I guess any error should have occured anyways.. What I noticed is that Insanity hasn't really been shy with solder, I on the other hand tend to be somewhat cheap (in general). I suppose that a really heated leg of a terminal block and generous on the solder would 'grow' the leg on the opposite side and thus might damage the isolation ...as this is what I suspect has happen from seeing the latest picture As more isolated terminal blocks might be a good idea, it might not have prevented this in the first place ...

How did it look? did you by any chance take a photo?

Send me your shipping address on (also paypal, the amount can be found in the sheet)