sorenb

No. If there are any shorts I expect you to have found those already? I suspect bad joints rather ...too much solder can hide a bad joint ...I would clean up the the joints and re-solder those before beginning to replace parts ...

@MLA can you please add a column to the sheet for shaft length? I'd like additional length as well

Can you please try to clean the joints in the psu-amp with some wick and re-solder those not using too much solder?

meaning?

they are in parallel ... but it does call for a better picture of the entire board

Have you checked that you didn't mixup the PNP/NPN's?

Heads-up. I assume regular mail (no tracking, no sign-off). Please let me know ASAP if you want other option at [email protected] (remember your head_case ID)

you might poke around the amplifier then ... check the ksc5026 ...too much solder can hide a bad joint Do you have 10V on each side? (base of both ksc5026) ....check the two 390k resistors and the .047uF cap

Remove the load from the PSU, and start from there ... sounds like the current limiter kicks in

when did you move?

Did a short run of isolations tests on the pcbs I have at hand (Carbon v5,v6, circlotron driver board) , they all seems to do +1kV fine (including one from Spritzer, in all fairness)

Oh, you actually tested the Group Buy boards and didn't tell the result? at least the pads don't fall off the group buy boards ...

In other words Kevin doesn't know how to layout a board? The quality of PCBNet boards a way better in comparison to the boards I got from you anyways..

As I respect the findings of Insanity, I took my Carbon apart. It is different from most here, as I have used boards from Spritzer that features a ground plane (like the board from the GB Carbon V7). The ground plane should just make things even worse. Anyways, good news is that I found NOTHING, nothing at all ...I have had this amp running almost 24x7 for about a year so I guess any error should have occured anyways.. What I noticed is that Insanity hasn't really been shy with solder, I on the other hand tend to be somewhat cheap (in general). I suppose that a really heated leg of a terminal block and generous on the solder would 'grow' the leg on the opposite side and thus might damage the isolation ...as this is what I suspect has happen from seeing the latest picture As more isolated terminal blocks might be a good idea, it might not have prevented this in the first place ...

How did it look? did you by any chance take a photo?

Send me your shipping address on (also paypal, the amount can be found in the sheet)

added. I guess the Group Buy should have been kept open for a few weeks more. Anyways, called the manufactor and got more amps board made, as a second round, thus the shipping will be delay.

I'm affraid you're making the wrong conclusion here buddy! why keep your findings to yourself? why not contact Mr. Colloms and explain your findings? truely, he will be nothing but interested in fine tuning his rating system. Talking to a few people on the forums won't change much. Probably better to forget all about this forum stuff and focus on the magazines rather - think of how many people reading those, being misinformed, mislead and so forth ...you're actually in a position to help the magazines and lead the way ...

if I can manage to get same quote as previous buy /ea

As several people have asked for the PSU boards, and some whether caps are available lets probe the interest. Group Buy moving ahead - collecting payments, and then ordering. Please bear in mind that lead time is 12 weeks ... edit: added: "Group Buy moving ahead - collecting payments, and then ordering.", and price confirmation.

Was recently asked about the same, someone had measured: For the 220V input, R=6.2ohm. For the 16-0-16V output, R=0.8+0.8ohm. However, for the 330V output, R=45ohm! And asked whether it was too high, the ToroIDY I had at hand measured: For the 220V input, R=14ohm. For the 16-0-16V output, R=(4+4) and 93ohm for 390V windings. Have you measured the voltages from the transformer unloaded?

Maybe you can persuade Chinsetta to make a wooden housing that fits the 007 drivers, 009pads and your headband of choise?

No prob. I've read the same. But changing resistors does include a bit of soldering, could be interesting if someone hving the problem would run through the batteries with some wick and re-solder before attempting to replace the resistors ...

do you see the noise on a scope?

How does one knows it is "leaky"?