sorenb

Baseboard seems to come in an edition including buffer and servo ...might be worth postponing that part of the group buy

You can trim the CSS's using only LV and a DMM in mA mode (assuming AMP board is not connected to anything): Connect LV+ -> AMP HV+ Connect LV- -> DMM (Common) Connect DMM.(+) -> the probe put the probe to the tail of the CSS (the Drain of the Sics (middle leg)) Now you'll have the CSS current reading directly on the meter, and the CSS can be trimmed to what ever current < 27mA you have sinks for (one might shoot a mA lower as the current grows a bit at higher voltage and heat). Trimming the output stage tail resistor to get the amp in balance and DC balance requires all voltages

You need all the voltages to work before doing any further trouble shooting

I guess you mean totals row? should be ok now

more like a psychiatrist and pharmacist it seems

all is in transit by now. Please let me know when stuff arrives.

Caps arrived - shipping tomorrow friday Please keep yourself updated in rgrds to shipping costs here As usual, I'll use cheapest shipping option available; if someone wants tracking/insurance they need to explicit ask for it.

might be stretching it a bit ... the two 1Meg + trim is really only needed if you care about mV accuracy ...you can omit those

15V

Caps has been shipped from the Über country ... I expect them to land first thing next week ... thanks for your patience

I guess gwrskien has a point as some fab houses do charge extra going for more oz ... however, in rgrds to PCBNet it doesn't really make much difference. For re-work abuse 2oz is usually fine - 1oz typically cannot handle much abuse . @nopants in comparison to how much green we are speding on components, chassis and so forth, I agree ...doesn't really matter much

any chance for some quotes in the sheet?

no room for it ... if you want a better CCS you might do a T2-Style on a separat board

as far as I remember I use 12V+5V back2back 1W's ...probably not critical 22awg is probably plenty For testing you can: Power up: bring up the drivers - wait until output settles - bring up the output stage Power down: bring down the output stage - wait until the HV900 < 200V - power off the drivers That works for me. Keeping the HV900 < 200V you can investigate the troubling behavior, having meters on the current limiter resistors of output stage and HV900s As far as I understand from Kevin he hasn't had problems in the lab, but he used some film on ceramic resistors at 10W's for current limiter. The DigiKey you found is 100W/700V rated and will most likely not break down.

I would assume that having some more robust 120ohm's will easen things quite a bit, as it will take a considerably amount of time before a pair of those break down, and at that time the current limiter from the HV900 should have kicked in and the situation being under control until the driver output has settled

two of those in series to get to 1kV for the 120ohms ...well only 100ohms are available ...so four it is

A Resistor capable of withstanding more current briefly. A more bold and faster transistor in comparison to the tiny 1-watt BC-thing As I have stated on page 3, powering up the driver and let it settles before dialing in the output bridge will bring the Albatross up in the Air; landing is likewise a bit delicate, and turning off the HV900's before the drivers works. I suspect that the 120ohm's also needs to be of a more bold character to prevent this thing for going boom - maybe 100W bolded to the heatsink.

you can tap it off the drains of the SiC's at the driver board using some resistors. 20V offset will whack the bridge out of balance and raise the current flowing. The zeners at the gates provides some protection in that regard, but I suspect that those are slower in comparison to the SiC's and that is the culprit. I suspect the HV900 current limiter isn't robust enough for being literally 'shorted' for a very brief moment when the driver at power up/down swing to B+

didn't you use lm49830 for the blackhole buffer?

how does this compare to the 49830? (I know it's obsolete, but still)

delivery to me week 06, will ship immediately hereafter.

Haven't tried the software Congo5 points to; I use the free GerberLogix that directly supports zip'ed gerbers (even drag-n-drop). Haven't tried all gerbers from Kevin, but a fair amount, and it seems to work fine.

U can go Bax with Stax: Tintagel sounds good and, even the sick Tristan is quoted herein

Received in good shape - nicely packed. Thanks for all your efforts doing this, highly appreciated. /S

Perfectly fine. I was worried that the package had been sent and gone missing, thats all.