jose

Thanks guys. Yes I can use those options but on my Carbon, Arduino controls the input selector and the frontal lights too. I was reading the Audioxpress article and it´s very interesting but I am not sure. What is a Optical Relay? references? Thanks

I´m thinking about use a relé for cut the AC from IEC to toroid on my Carbon. This relé is connecting via Arduino at two LM35DT on the heatsinks. If the temperature is very high, Arduino send a signal to relé and this will cut the current for safety. I´m not sure what kind of relé is the best opción. I´m thinking on a solid state relé but a friend of mine said that this not a good idea because this relé use a triac and can introduce noise on the current. What do you thing?

Boards received!!!! Thanks

Paid Sorenb. Thanks

[emoji23] [emoji23] [emoji23] [emoji23] Oh.... someone stole my headbar basked and my ring !!!!!! Jajajaja

ta ta ta chan!!!!!! Dura Ace 9000 (50/34) is 88 grams lighter than Ultegra 6800 (52/36) My next step: a pair of DT Swiss RS28 SPLine

Thanks Sorenb

i'm guilty... I bought this beautify

Thanks guys. I don´t know if my Ultegra Di2 will have problems with the different rings and the ramps between them. My ideal will be 52/34 but this is the problem: The 52 ring doesn't like the 34 ring. The price of an Ultegra 6800 (50/34) is around 155€ and the Dura Ace 9000 (50/34) is 344€. Is a big difference. I need time for thinking about this.

Thanks. It´s the problem of the Shimano bottom bracket. You can´t change the ring. You can change the rings but only with certain combinations for example, you can´t put a 34 with a 52. On my case, if I buy the dura-ace 9000 I will have two bottom bracket (DA 32/50 and Ultegra 36/52) and I would change. (Change the bottom bracket no the rings)

Guys, I´m thinking change my Ultegra 6800 36/52 by a Dura-Ace 9000 34/50. Yes, I know that the new Dura-Ace is here, and the ultegra versión is more cheaper but 9000 versión has a good price now and I need change... my 36/52 is great for flat stages or médium mountain but here we have steep ramps and sometimes I suffer a lot with this development. (rear I used a ultegra 11/32) Ok, I know that a 36/52 with 11/32 is "similar" to 34/50 with 11/28 but the "feeling" on long mountain pass is very, very different. What do you think?

A stupid thing... or not. If the problem is the floor connector, Why you don´t use a thermal silicone (same that we used between headsink and trasistors) but between the connector and the pcb? You only need to make the holes on the silicone.

No problem Soren. I bought the Kemet on Mouser at 30€/ea . Less than that is a fantastic price.

Ok, I know my amps are not very pretty , but I like the simple front. I made the 20mA versión so it need a big heatsinks

12$/ea?

My KGSSHV C is Alive!!!

Thanks Sorenb. I´m interested.

Beautiful:

Today I could dedicate time to amp. It took me very little time regulate. The balance was 0~1 volt (derived a little between both values) and offset was 0~0,5volt (derived a little too).

Thanks all Dr. Gilmore, What value recommended for HV?

CT pin. I feel like a stupid . Spend two hours to review all and spend your time too

Thanks guys. Yesterday I was until 2 AM checked the amps. All components is OK, correct solders, all conections OK. Finally, I moved the trafo wires and I saw something, when I moved it the led shine sometimes. I saw that the PSU socket was rare: I desoldered this piece and a pin on the socket base was broken. I don´t remember too tightly. I had had chinese sockets with this problem but not a Phoenix. So I turned on and all was OK. Leds shine, volt ok. I adjusted the current to 1 volt (20 mA) and then I went to sleep. Tonight I´m working with the balance and off set. Thanks for your patience.

First start. I'm not lucky I have all VRs adjusted to mid point I turn on R channel; both leds shine. A second later, led arround PZTA56, don´t shine (+rail). Turn off the amp and the this led shine again!!! (until the capacitor discharges). The Led arround PZTA06 shine all time. Check Volt on + rail: 1,5 volt. Volt on - rail: -15 volt. No smoke or blown. L channel, it´s similar to R; the same led is shining and then stop.

Ok, I´m ready to check it.

I changed the LT1021-5 for LT1021-10. Now, psu it´s fine. HV: 402,5 volt. / -401,5 volt Bias, 578 volt. LV: 15,4 volt/ -15,1 volt. Thanks