cclragnarok
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Posts posted by cclragnarok
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Pretty jealous bread is awesome.
Did you read/watch Yakitate!! Japan?
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the cover isn't shipped with the replacement cable, so the MK1 cover was used.
So the Mk1 cover works. Thanks for the answers.
I'm keeping the funds in the US and Europe while all of this blows over. I own a bakery so I can just make my own pasta if I need to... We've lived through far worse then this and come out on top so I'm not worried at all.You own a bakery?
I'm glad that you are still doing OK and bidding on T2's.
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yes, I've repaired a MK1 with a MK2 cable. It works fine, just no screws.
Did you have to plug the port (like what Birgir did to his Mk2) for it to sound the same as a stock Mk1?
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I bought a pair of SR-007 pads from Birgir. I received the item quickly and in great condition. I would not hesitate to deal with him again.
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Haj sold me his Nugget Audio mini^3 for a great price. The amp was carefully packed, and it arrived very quickly in perfect condition. I would not hesitate to deal with him again.
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Don't get me started on the steppers...
You can always add inline attenuators to drop the level and they are cheap-ish.That might be the best solution if the problem is bad channel balance at low volume on pots.
With the stepped attenuators, channel balance is not an issue. The only problem is the size of the steps. Even if an inline attenuator is used to move me to the middle steps, the steps might still be large enough to annoy me.
Assuming that the implementation of the foobar v0.8.3 volume control is good, it should not degrade sound quality much if I have a 24-bit transport, and I only make small adjustments there. I can set up keyboard shortcuts to adjust the volume 0.5 dB at a time, so it should be pretty convenient except for the fact that it'll only work when foobar is on top.
Like I mentioned in another thread, none of my previous 24-bit computer transports (Transit, 0404 USB, etc) worked without clicks and pops when I have my wireless card enabled. Fortunately, my Echo Indigo DJ had a huge hardware buffer (IIRC, it buffered up to ~25 seconds), so the Audiofire 2 should work fine if its buffer is even close to that size.
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The gain isn't the problem, more likely your source is too hot i.e. its output level is above the 2v(4v) spec. That can be fixed by attenuating the signal before it enters the amp. There was a thread on this a few months back...
Actually, I guess the main problem is that the stepped attenuators don't have enough steps. I'm always on the first few steps, and I think they are spaced farther apart than the steps in the middle.
I just bought an Echo Audiofire 2, which will hopefully work well as a 24-bit computer transport. I will then use foobar to make small adjustments in volume.
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The SR-003 is very sensitive...
I probably shouldn't try one of those then. I find the gain on my KGSS to be too high even for the Omega IIs.
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Unless you own some very expensive test equipment, easiest way to test SNR is to just plug in a super sensitive pair of IEMs and listen for hiss/hum. If nothing can be heard, you have a very, very good SNR.
I'm not sure I want to do that with my KGSS.
Otherwise, as an UM2 owner, I agree with you. -
Actually, the KGSS specification also says that the SNR is "inaudible."
Of course, inaudible is not really the same as not measurable.
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I'm in the process of formulating a plan right now for a complete TP DAC when all the goodies become available. I probably offer my services for building some in a similar fashion as I did for the B22s I built.
I want one too (also tentatively). Assuming that PFKMan23 still lives in Saratoga, we might even be able to combine the shipping.
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I've never heard the Woo 3, but since you want technical answers, I guess it doesn't matter too much.
The Woo 3 uses 6AS7/6080 output tubes, which should be able to provide enough current even for the K701. The problem is likely to be the output impedance (maybe somewhere around 100 Ohms?), which is probably too high for the K701.
My guess is that simply turning the volume down won't help too much.
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There's gonna be an rca out dac only pico for 349 out sometime in the near future. It will be difficult to compete with that under 1000 without looking at vintage dacs. There are things that do though they are at the ~1000 price range and not anywhere near the 349 price ;p
Do you know if there are plans for a balanced version?
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I'm not a big believer in cryo treating tubes, but are you sure the cryo treatment is done right?
Maybe the tubes were somehow damaged by improper cryo treatment (sudden changes in temperature, etc).
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Hey wrecked, I'll definitely check on that. Thanks for the tip. The blip is quite hard to describe..almost like a pop...always happens on the right side of the audio for me.
It's weird that it's always on the right side.
Do you use wireless (802.11a/b/g)? I used to have a Transit, and I have a Emu 0404 USB now. For both of them, I got the blips/pops when I have my laptop wireless card activated. Both worked fine if I disabled my wireless card.
I had the same problem, but to a lesser degree, with the Apogee MiniDAC USB. The only USB soundcards/DACs/transports I've used that are completely blip-free all use the PCM2704 for the USB interface.
Either way, increasing Foobar and Transit ASIO buffers might help a little bit.
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Nah, not joking. My speakers' nominal impedance is 6ohm. Thanks for the clarification. I put the little smiley because I figured tkam would know I was referring to the 22L because I bought them from him.
I see. I don't have any speakers right now, so I haven't been following the speaker discussions.
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so is that 750W into 6ohm?
Not sure if you are joking or not, but it should be 1000W * 4/6 = 667W.
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It says Cavalry. Are you sure it's WD?
The price is great, but recent reviews of buy.com have been horrible for some reason:
Buy.com Customer Ratings, Reviews and Prices at ResellerRatings
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Ahhh epic failure on the part of online translators. The SR-Omega shouldn't fart though, at least nothing compared to the SR-007
Do they ever fart? Since the seller contacted Stax about the farting, I don't think he's tried the SR-007.
From Stax's reply to the seller, it sounds like some SR-Omegas fart more than others.
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The seller says that it works fine, but has the Stax fart. He checked with Stax about the farting, and Stax said that it's not a problem.
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I sold Nate some tubes. He paid instantly, and was great to deal with. Highly recommended!
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Hmmm, we might have to talk. I'm working on a 6v6 based amp project now...
How many 6v6 tubes does your amp use?
My amp (Sound Quest SQ-84) uses 4 6v6 tubes, so I bought some quads. One of the quads I bought looks like barely used rebranded+rebased gray glass RCA tubes. I'm not actually 100% sure about this, but the plate structure looks to be the same as the RCA tubes I have, and they sound like my RCA tubes.
The problem is that only 2 of the 4 tubes have identical construction. The construction of these 2 tubes look like my regular RCA 6v6gt tubes.
The other 2 tubes look like my military RCA tubes (VT107A), but these 2 also have slightly different construction from one another. One of these also makes a little "clink" sound if you flip the tube upside down or shake it a little. I couldn't find any shorts or loose parts, and the quad works and sounds fine in my amp, but I'm still kind of worried about the tube possibly shorting out later on.
So basically, I can sell this quad for cheap, but it's probably more useful for an amp that uses 1 or 2 tubes at a time without tube matching issues.
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I don't know much about guitar amps, but I have some interesting 6v6 tubes if you end up buying/building a 6v6 amp.
You can always add inline attenuators to drop the level and they are cheap-ish.
HE 1.2B and Buffalo Loaner Program.
in Headphones
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I look forward to the impressions/comparisons/reviews.