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About dingding123

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  1. The stax 007 has a more updated design and feels like it can tolerate careless handling better than the ES-1A. This might be due to the maker wishing to replicate the looks of the Omega, along with its design quirks. The ES-1A has a bendy head band that offers quite little clamping pressure. I wish the headphones could be lighter and holds on to the head more snugly.
  2. This is a repost of my impressions on another forum I've been using the ES-1a almost daily for about 4 months now. I feel that these are underrated and the audiophile community deserves to know them. Before I start my review, I just wanna declare that I have no conflict of interest with anybody in the headphone industry. I bought the ES-1a at the price of 12800HKD (1650USD) which is listed as the default price on ES Lab's web store. The ES-1a maker does not have prior knowledge about this review. A little bit about myself I like to listen to music - from pop to classical, from
  3. Finally, my mini T2 is completed. Just want to share my build experience and listening impression for those who are about to build one. Also, a huge shout-out for JoaMat, who conceptualised and designed the amp, provided me with invaluable tips when I was debugging my mini T2 and encouraged me to share my experiences here. -------------------------------- Pics or it didn't happen: -------------------------------- Build experience: Before this amp, I have built the Carbon and Grounded Grid, as well as quite a few dynamic amps including the SMD Dynalo. Overa
  4. Congrats on your finished build! I did a similar (in terms of size and layout) single chassis build, with the amp mounted in the upper part of the heatsink. Dual 450V and 20mA. At steady state, the temps hover around 46 degrees celsius (ambient 27 deg) on the heatsinks directly behind the amp boards, 43 deg behind the GRHV, and 41 deg at other parts of the heatsink where nothing is mounted behind. Not sure about you but I feel it's quite safe to push it to 20mA if you're getting a similar temperature.
  5. I think a 10k pot a bit too low and it is more suitable for amps with bjt input. With the jfet input on carbon you can use a 50k or 100k pot.
  6. I think some of the resistors are spec'ed at 2W as per the 21st Century Maida design. Would it be ok if you replace them with SMD parts?
  7. Interesting. What's the function of the Flat jumper?
  8. Another Dynahi lives. Sigh... Heatsinks are never enough.
  9. I always wonder what makes the CFA2 sound so good and makes me choose it over the dynahi every time. Does the magic lie in the current feedback topology or the triple darlington output stage? just an idea - what happens if we parallel two or more sets of the triple darlington output for each CFA2 board? Would it be the more the merrier?
  10. That's about 2.2% lower than the 580V Stax pro bias. The slightly lower bias is unlikely cause harm to the earspeakers. In terms of sound, lower bias voltage would mean that the earspeakers are less sensitive. However at 2.2% lower, I'm not sure how much of a difference you may experience. My experience is that the bias does increase a little after warming up. I assume that your measurement was done at start-up. Perhaps you might wanna measure the bias again say, 30 minutes after turning on.
  11. Thanks @Blueman2 I would definitely consider making a chassis with heatsink sides for future projects, but for now, I have yet to source for an appropriate L-shaped aluminium thermocoupler. The transparent case is meant for prototyping only heh. It's cut to order by a seller in China. Just send them a CAD drawing and they will CNC it for you. I plan to transfer everything into a black chassis after I get a bigger heatsink. Currently it's running at a modest 14mA at 68 deg C.
  12. Another KGSSHV Carbon lives! Thanks to @sorenb @Kerry @simmconn for the help on bias voltage. I used 2 x 120v 0.5W and 2 x 130v 3W in the end. The 0.5w parts work well. Next steps: cable management, re-case, increase heatsink size.
  13. Just curious,has anyone tried using dynahi to drive a srd 7?
  14. Dang it haha! Thanks for pointing it out. I'm planning to swap the zeners to some 0.5W ones, which are the only ones available at my local store. My logic is that 0.5w rating would suffice since the targeted voltage drop (around 100v) multiplied by the current (max 1.3mA -ish) would be around 0.13W. Is my calculations sound? Or did I make a grave mistake here?
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